Showcase Panasonic 100-300mm f/4-5.6 (mk I)

Brownie

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A question. This is cross-posted to birds, but I'm trying to come to a conclusion. The image is soft. panamamike was able to get it looking decent, but I'm trying to sort out if it's the lens itself or something I did. Is this a product of the lens @300mm? The shutter speed is a little low, but I would've thought the IBIS would have compensated.
Thoughts?

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robin backlight by telecast, on Flickr
 

Cederic

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The image of the bird is soft because the focus is on the branch, a whole inch closer to the camera.

It's a big challenge at 300mm, and the primary reason I have so few keepers with this lens. I think the issue isn't the lens though (unless you want to throw in how tricky it is to manually focus the thing).
 

Brownie

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The image of the bird is soft because the focus is on the branch, a whole inch closer to the camera.

It's a big challenge at 300mm, and the primary reason I have so few keepers with this lens. I think the issue isn't the lens though (unless you want to throw in how tricky it is to manually focus the thing).
Disagree. I can open that image up at home full size and none of it is in focus. Also I used autofocus spot, and it was decidedly on the bird. He sat there for me nice and still through at least four shots and they're all the same.
 

Hendrik

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I looked at the Flickr original size and it seemed to me that only some of the pine needles were well focused. But, not knowing whether the image was a 100% crop or heavily downsampled makes it difficult to come to any firm conclusion. My experience with the lens (used on an Olympus body, mostly E-M5 II, using only IBIS) was that, at distances relatively close to minimum focusing distance, say, under 30'/10m, it has the potential to render more than adequate detail at 300mm. But as the distance lengthens, focus seems to become more unreliable.

Having reviewed a couple k images shot with the lens suggests to me that when using this lens I really need to watch my technique. I have shots at distance at 300mm that have stunning clarity and others that are just so much mush, either from misplaced focus or stabilization failure. For me, it comes down to this: reliable rendering of detail seems to improve as I am closer to the subject, the focal length diminishes, iso stays near base, the shutter speed approaches 1/focal length (which on a 2x crop camera is still at least a stop gain) and the aperture approaches f/8. Not much different from any other lens except telephotos magnify any flaws in technique.
 

Brownie

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If memory serves it was cropped very little, but I'll check when I get home to confirm. Please point out which needles you see as focused. I can't find anything that looks sharp, but perhaps I'm missing them.

I'm thinking focal length and shutter speed, but I would've thought the G9 would take care of it. Then too, I am learning more about the dual IS system and I think I need to update the firmware.
 

Mike Wingate

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I thought I would take a few photos from the window into the garden, as I had endured a hard lunch looking through the window.
 

BosseBe

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If memory serves it was cropped very little, but I'll check when I get home to confirm. Please point out which needles you see as focused. I can't find anything that looks sharp, but perhaps I'm missing them.

I'm thinking focal length and shutter speed, but I would've thought the G9 would take care of it. Then too, I am learning more about the dual IS system and I think I need to update the firmware.
Version I of the 100-300 is OIS only, no Dual IS, AFAIK. So 1/200s might be to slow for hand holding.
 

ooheadsoo

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I'm thinking that's it. I found a review that said both were compatible with a firmware update, but I can only find the II lens on Pany's firmware page. Thanks!
My lens is updated for dual-is. Edit: sorry I may have been mixed up with my 35-100 re: dual IS.

I posted shots from a test session recently where I had trouble nailing sharp shots at 300mm at shutter speeds for the most part higher than 1/2500. I can only conclude that either the AF is below par or hand-holding technique is extremely difficult and the usual handheld focal length rule does not apply at super telephoto deistances except for those with exceptionally steady hands. Probably both.
 
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Brownie

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My lens is updated for dual-is. I posted shots from a test session recently where I had trouble nailing sharp shots at 300mm at shutter speeds for the most part higher than 1/2500. I can only conclude that either the AF is below par or hand-holding technique is extremely difficult and the usual handheld focal length rule does not apply at super telephoto deistances except for those with exceptionally steady hands. Probably both.
Version I?
 

Hendrik

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If memory serves it was cropped very little, but I'll check when I get home to confirm. Please point out which needles you see as focused. I can't find anything that looks sharp, but perhaps I'm missing them.

I'm thinking focal length and shutter speed, but I would've thought the G9 would take care of it. Then too, I am learning more about the dual IS system and I think I need to update the firmware.
I've circled the area I initially saw as more in focus. The screen grab is of the large Flickr image in Fast Raw Viewer evaluated for fine detail (red). It looks as if there are other details but very diffused in areas that don't really count. If it were sharp, the robin would be covered and outlined with the red highlights. Keep in mind that downsampling can clean up some details.

I have photos in which there is nothing in focus despite a very deep field. I suspect these should be attributed to shutter shock.

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Hendrik

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Sorry to bore you all. Here are two consecutive images captured three seconds apart.
E-M5 II, P100/300 I, 300mm, f/8.0, 1/800s, ISO 400

Seems plausible
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Likewise
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But then consider 100% crops.

Oops
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Not perfect, but much, much better
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