i only have one (nd 400) filter and want to use the omd's timelapse feature to stack photos for a longer exposure effect in photoshop. however, the minimum interval for timelapse is 1 second, instead of 0 seconds- and this can inevitable lead to gaps and banding in cloud formations and other unwanted effects. i will most likely have to manually stack them to compensate for the 1 sec interval. i know the general rule of 1/n for opacity, starting with the bottom image. but how would i compensate for the 1 sec interval to make sure the images overlap? what opacity setting/formula would make sure they overlap? tia
I think it would make more sense to use Live Composite rather than Timelapse for what you're trying to do. More control over exposure and the frames won't have the 1s delay between them.
Yes, agreed. Live Composite is a fantastic feature. The other option is to get an external release. There are a couple of options. I have a Triggertrap which is a cable and software that turns a smartphone into a release. This is a super little tool and pretty cheap. I also have a standalone Hahnel wireless release that provides time lapse too.
I disagree about live composite. It's lighten blending mode is not what a normal long exposure looks like at all. It works for light streaks but not much else. I would use manual exposure mode set to continuous drive using an external release. As far as blending goes, if you're using a late version of Photoshop just load up your stack, group them as a smart object and set the blending mode of the group to mean or median - no need to manually set opacities or anything.
i can definitely use continious, but id rather use the timelapse/intervalometer feature so that imnot tied tothe shot while doing the long exposure.id rather correct things thru post process manual stacking (not smart objects, which i know how to do also),if someone could point me in the correct blending 'formula'.
you may be right there. I only ever use it for night shots. I will agree with @pdk42 though. A remote release is a good way to run a series without having to be around. I have a shutterboss wireless remote that'll speak Olympus and you can lock the shutter down. I also have the Olympus wired shutter release with a similar lock on the switch. I didn't know they'd updated Triggertrap to work with Olympus cameras! I was pretty excited when I was reading about it a couple of years ago, but don't think it supported us then. Will check it out.
