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OMD EM5 problem with moon

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by ivanisevic82, Dec 15, 2013.

  1. ivanisevic82

    ivanisevic82 New to Mu-43

    4
    Dec 14, 2013
    Hello guys , I have a question for you, sorry for my english, I hope you can help me.

    I have same problem with the night shots . It seems to me that they are much less sharp than with my former Panasonic G3 .

    In any case, in this topic I would like you to notice the difference so far I have found that most macroscopic .

    This evening , taking advantage of the full moon , I tried to photograph it ... and in this case the comparison with the G3 has left me very puzzled .

    Lens M.Zuiko 40-150 Off Stabilizer (not needed with these days) , 150mm , F9 , 1/320"...but very different results ... the left the OMD and right the G3:

    LunaConfronto.

    I removed all kind of noise filter , anything that might worsen the picture ... but the result I get, in terms of sharpness , is so inferior to that of the G3 that something not quite right .

    Accurate that it is a crop to 50% , if I find the original file done with the G3 place also the version 100% ... in each case changes little from the point of view of the result.

    In particular, I noticed that with the OMD moon always seems to blur ... even if the shutter speeds are very fast and the EM5 is on a tripod with a 12 second shutter delay !
    Manual focus of course, I could have been more careful : it is in focus.

    However, with 1/320 and a tripod you can not talk about moved effect ... but then why the result is this ? What is this kind of " moved", which is not moved ! ?

    Luna%20OMD.
     
  2. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    I've had good results with my E-M5 and Panasonic 100-300:

    10781829196_fa3de536eb_b.
    Guess what? by Paul Kaye, on Flickr

    1/30 at f8, ISO 200. Camera on a tripod with IBIS off.

    All I can suggest is this - make sure that:

    - You turn IBIS off
    - You put the camera on a tripod
    - You use a timer to delay the shutter release
    - You use the anti-shock shutter release feature
    - You manually focus

    If this fails, then I can't help any more!

    Good luck.
     
    • Like Like x 6
    • Informative Informative x 1
  3. RAH

    RAH Mu-43 Veteran

    271
    Dec 1, 2013
    New Hampshire
    Rich
    I don't own a m43 camera yet (I have an E-520), but I am curious why a mirrorless camera would have an anti-shock setting. I mean, on the Olympus dslrs, anti-shock is like mirror lock on other manufacturers dslrs. It lifts the mirror for a few seconds before the shutter is activated. Why is this even available on a mirrorless camera??
     
  4. fredlong

    fredlong Just this guy...

    Apr 18, 2011
    Massachusetts USA
    Fred
    The normal sequence for m43 starts with the shutter open. When you press the shutter release the shutter closes then opens for the exposure. It closes to end the exposure. Finally it opens again for viewing.

    The anti shock setting closes the shutter for a short period of time before opening again for the exposure.

    Fred
     
    • Like Like x 2
  5. jamespetts

    jamespetts Mu-43 Top Veteran

    803
    May 21, 2011
    London, England
    You are having problems with the moon? May I ask - is your moon still under warranty?
     
    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 1
  6. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    That looks like some potential miss focus, and some potential atmospheric distortion. The first requires careful manual focusing using magnified view, and the second requires clear skies free of pollution, and minimal atmosphere between you and the moon (i.e. overhead).
     
  7. Gary Ramey

    Gary Ramey Mu-43 Veteran

    240
    Dec 27, 2012
    Aurora Colorado
    Always Manuel focus and use the magnifier...should work fine
     
  8. LowriderS10

    LowriderS10 Monkey with a camera.

    May 19, 2013
    Canada
    pdk42: That's a SMASHING photo of the Moon!!!

    I've been on the fence about the Panny 100-300 for months (well, ever since bought my E-M5 in May), but I think that photo just set me over the edge and I"m going to buy one! :D
     
  9. T N Args

    T N Args Agent Photocateur

    Dec 3, 2013
    Adelaide, Australia
    call me Arg
    From this image I think the vibration is in the vertical plane. That is the direction of the shutter's movement, yes?
     
  10. biomed

    biomed Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 22, 2013
    Seattle area
    Mike
    pdk42 pretty much said it all. You might try opening up your lens a bit to f8 or even f/5.6 and increasing the shutter speed to see if your images are being softened by lens diffraction. A lot of websites on photographing the moon recommend shooting at f/22, but with a u4/3 camera I never close the lens any more than f/8. Another issue I have run into is atmospheric distortion.

    GX7, Nikkor 300/4.5 Ai

    11284175676_66f9d1eae9_b.

    Mike
     
  11. britops

    britops Mu-43 Regular

    79
    Apr 10, 2012
    Olympus Zuiko 75-300mm, ISO 1250 f/6.7 1/640 300mm

    I'm also looking for the optimal setting, great thread.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    Well, it's not a bad lens, especially from 100-250. It softens a little towards the 300 mark, but it's still acceptable. A little extra sharpening helps. Like all long lenses (600 ff equiv), it does need good technique though - handheld you need to be at least 500th, even with IBIS to get consistent results (that's not to say that you won't get some good shots slower than this, but the success rate will be lower).

    If you're on the fence at all, I'm happy to upload the raw of this moon shot for you to play with. Just let me know!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. LowriderS10

    LowriderS10 Monkey with a camera.

    May 19, 2013
    Canada
    Thanks, I really appreciate it!! The way I look at it is that it's a 200-500mm (equiv) lens. Anything beyond that is a bonus (albeit lower quality). When I had my DSLRs, I was shooting either 70-300s (the Tamron VC USD is a surprisingly awesome combo, or a 70-200 w/ 1.4x TC)...even on APS-C, those only amount to around 450mm FF equivalent. So that's how I'm looking at this lens...at 250mm it gives comparable results to a 70-300 or a 70-200 + 1.4x TC on APS-C...good enough for me!

    Thanks, I appreciate the offer, but sadly I have no RAW converter (I'm working on it, but right now my life is really hectic and have other matters to attend to). :(
     
  14. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Funny man!

    Does the 'moon juice' help. :tongue: :biggrin:
     
  15. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    I think it is a double image & probably caused by IS (image stabiliser). It can happen if held in certain ways & the ideal way to get the perfect moon shot is to do as recommended above (IS off, MF with magnified view, Anti-shock on set at least 1/8 sec., 2 sec timer delay, ISO 200 & on a tripod, also all done in Manual is best too).
     
  16. T N Args

    T N Args Agent Photocateur

    Dec 3, 2013
    Adelaide, Australia
    call me Arg
    Ross, he said he took the photo with IS off, on a tripod, with shutter delay. See post #1. Sounds like he did it 'the ideal way'.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. JimUSNY

    JimUSNY Mu-43 Regular

    122
    Nov 5, 2013
    Mid Hudson Valley NY
    Jim
    half moons are always more detailed than full moons as you have some shadows and contrast.. full moons are tougher, remember also the moon is moving as is the earth even if camera is not, so the faster the shutter the better, better off as wide open as you can get and as fast a shutter you can shoot unless your on a tracking mount.. so even though its very bright, a faster lens is still best bet.. its amazing how fast the moon will move in the VF if you watch it a few seconds at long lens lengths
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  18. owczi

    owczi nareteV 34-uM

    There is what Fred says, but also the anti-shock is simply some added delay, like you could do with a delay timer: If you have no cable release, you let go of the shutter button and the tripod - unless it's a really, really good one, will always vibrate a little. That delay allows the vibrations to dampen sufficiently before you open the shutter for exposure.

    As to pictures of the moon - manual focus is a must, and also as short an exposure as doable, all this stuff in the sky rotates all the time you see :) - when focusing on the moon, the focus point is towards the infinity setting, but not at infinity, just slightly closer on the focus ring (if it were a manual lens). I've had this with some legacy lenses that could not focus far enough (others could, so it wasn't the adapter). I would imagine that you could have the same issue with a native m43 lens - if this isn't a problem with shake or exposure time.
     
  19. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Yes, I should have read all of his post, but I don't think he used the Anti-Shock shutter delay & that might be the final key to the issue here.

    I have had mixed results with my 75-300 lens (hand held), but the best ones were with some shutter delay.

    The other question would be, what type of tripod & head? Is it a solid metal one or does it have a plastic head, because they can vibrate.
     
  20. meyerweb

    meyerweb Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Sep 5, 2011
    Actually, he said he used 12 second shutter delay.

    OP, have you compared sharpening levels? Do you have an image editor that you can use to increase sharpening on the EM5? Do you still have the Panasonic? If so , shoot again with the same lens and setup on both cameras. If these were taken at different times, with different set ups, there are too many variables to know what is happening.