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omd em10 mk ii. set up

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by hyy, Jun 22, 2016.

  1. hyy

    hyy Mu-43 Rookie

    20
    Apr 18, 2016
    i am new to photography so i am slow in composing, so is af c a better af for me or ap s? i am afraid by the time i focus & recompose, set my EV etc. the focus will long be unfocused. i m mostly shooting people.

    what is a good value for contrast, sharpness and saturation? is 0 fine?

    using portrait for photo mode currently. will vivid bring out the photo better?

    i have set my brightness for evf n lcd to -2 brightness and highlights to 250 5. as i always felt that the photo is too bright/over expose. is it approriate?

    assuming i want to do less post processing works, what will be a better set up.

    thank you.
     
  2. MarkRyan

    MarkRyan Instagram: @MRSallee

    772
    May 3, 2013
    California
    AF-C = Continuous autofocus. IMO, this is much less reliable than AF-S, which = Single autofocus. Especially if your subject is not moving significantly between half-pressing the shutter button and full-pressing the shutter button, AF-S is the way to go.

    As for sharpness, contrast, and color settings, it's all personal choice. Personally, I leave the settings very neutral in camera and leave the contrast, color, and sharpness tweaking for post-production on my laptop.
     
  3. hyy

    hyy Mu-43 Rookie

    20
    Apr 18, 2016
    but isnt af s focus will not be as accurate if i took more than few seconds to take a shot after recomposing n adjusting ev?

    since i will be jerking about.

    what do you suggest about photo mode? i understand people do post processing works. just wondering if there is any settings that would make my photo look "film" style straight from jpeg
     
  4. TheMenWhoDrawSheeps

    TheMenWhoDrawSheeps Mu-43 Regular

    156
    Jun 15, 2016
    Here are some shooting styles.%)

    The lurker:

    You need to learn to Plan ahead, Instead of adjusting on the fly.
    How do you thing ppl photographed on film, without af?
    If you're shooting in same/simmilar conditions, you barely need to change your settings - work on M and define aperture/shutterspeed etc. Heck, you can even preset your focus distance. Find a nice Spot, make your composition, and wait - Quantum mechanics, teaches us, that even in Empty space anything can happen.. Eventually.)))
    Learn how to shoot hyperfocal, Plan ahead, don't rely purely on luck - create your deceicive moment.

    Comando:

    Once more prepare your shot - what are you going for - Motion blur, shallow DOF, steet, etc. Pick automatic mode A/S, and af mode best fitting. Make Spot metering and pick Center af field, or whichever suits you best. Af on Subject, recompose, and shoot burst with closed eyes - pick your deceicive moment.)


    Either way, af should be last thing to do - it's either you af and shoot, or Subject crossing your focus plane and you shoot.

    Some camera manufacturers have nice Feature like Shot On af confirmation - it means, as soon as you get smth in focus, camera takes a picture - as you can imagine, isn't working that great, but sometimes, just a live saver.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2016
  5. hyy

    hyy Mu-43 Rookie

    20
    Apr 18, 2016
    thank you for the type of shooting styles, i am indeed not planning ahead as i am unclear what to plan for. need to go out to take more shots so i can understand the scene more and what settings can do.
     
  6. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    Lorenzo
    Simple answer: do not use focus and recompose and do not keep the shutter button half-pressed for too long. It is not how it is intended to be used IMO.

    Focus and recompose is a nice trick that can be handy in some occasions but in general is a bad idea:
    - the camera decides the exposure based on a scene different from the final one (this often means over/under exposure)
    - with thin DoF the subject, or yourself, can move enough to loose the focus

    Old cameras had few focus points, selecting the focus point was not so easy, so you had to use this trick quite often. With the E-M10 just set the AF box in the correct location using the LCD touch screen of the arrows and use AF-S. Of course there is nothing wrong with a little small/fast focus and recompose.

    About in camera setting just experiment a little. There is no such thing as "film style" because each film was different so you probably have in mind a very specific "film".

    Olympus colors by default are strong and with good saturation, check this samples, shot with standard settings (see here):

    Robin Wong: Available Light for Street Portrait Shooting
    Robin Wong: To Achieve That "Robin Wong" Look

    A lot of times it depends more on the light and how you set the exposure than on camera settings. Of course you can boost things in post but if you have a good scene there is no need to. We usually do not notice but many scenes are just dull and the camera simply reproduces that.

    The LCD brightness relates very little with how you final picture will look like. Very often the default camera exposure is a little wrong (will over/under expose depending on the brightness of the scene) so you often need to use the front wheel for exposure compensation. This is normal: the camera cannot know if you are shooting a white wall in a very dark room or a gray one under strong sun so it just guesses something "reasonable".

    At the same time the camera is good at doing its work: do no simply assume that all the pictures wants a -1 EV correction, this is simply not true even if you prefer a dark mood. It depends on each shots, this is why there is a big nice wheel on the camera exactly for this reason.
    You do need to use fancy metering modes (see here, here) just learn to see correctly the EVF preview and use compensation.

    The values 250 - 5 relates only to the camera warning you get in the "Higlights&shadows" display mode. They do not affect the picture in any way. To affect the picture you can use the "Tone curve", by default on the Fn2 button, to fine tune the picture contrast but is often risky to do this and, again, depends on the scene (high or low contrast).

    Probably the fastest way to find your perfect in-camera setting is to use Olympus Viewer 3 because it has exactly the same settings as the camera and gives you the same JPEG picture. So take a few different shots in RAW mode, open them with OV3 and quickly try everything, then apply the same settings on the camera and set it back to shoot JPEG. Anyway is something that you'll need to tune over time and many shots, not a fire and forget thing.
     
  7. hyy

    hyy Mu-43 Rookie

    20
    Apr 18, 2016
    thanks for all the tips, it is really helpful. especially that i did not know of OV3 settings can mimic.
     
  8. TheMenWhoDrawSheeps

    TheMenWhoDrawSheeps Mu-43 Regular

    156
    Jun 15, 2016
    1.) after half pressing the shutter, camera locks the exposure and any compensation is applied to that.
    Don't know if that is preset or my personal setting, so i won't argue on that.

    2) it's clearly not designed for moving subject's and f0.95 portraiture, but in general for street, you're working with bigger DOF, and it can be quite challenging throwing anything out of focus, by moving camera 3-5cm to the right or to the left.
    For Hardcore cases there is still possibility for back Button focus, or compensate focus manually.

    Anyway, i wouldn't taboo anything as long as it fits your shooting style.)

    Sent from my D5503 using Mu-43 app
     
  9. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    Lorenzo
    Yes, by default the exposure is computed and locked when you half-press the button and this causes the exposure problem. If you point the camera a little to the right, where you have a big white wall, lock the exposure and move the camera back to a darker scene you will get an underexposed shot. Do this with a landscape, where you point the camera a little down to set a close focus distance, and you are going to overexpose the sky.
    I often use the "focus and recompose" trick with the smartphone as a poor man exposure compensation.

    Applying compensation starting with a scene different from the final one does not make much sense to me. Even worse to compensate while you keep the button half pressed.

    About DoF we do not know much about the context or lenses here. I talked about thin DoF that is easy to get with a 45/1.8 in a portrait. While you move to find a better composition you may lean back or forward a little without noticing and this can be enough to loose the focus on the eye plane.
    Of course if you shoot a 17mm at f/5.6 there is very little risk of out of focus problems, but then the OP would not have got the problem in the first place even with moving subjects.

    It's not about taboos is just a trick that in a lot of situations can lead to a few problems and IMO there are better alternatives. In a hurry, if you know what you are doing why not.
     
  10. TheMenWhoDrawSheeps

    TheMenWhoDrawSheeps Mu-43 Regular

    156
    Jun 15, 2016
    Heh, haven't thought about this that way, since the OP talked about making shooting faster - you have more than enough time for settings a landscape shot anyway.
    On the street on other hand, you have main focus on Subject, and you want it propperly exposed and in focus - that what focus/recompose was designed for.
    I still find it hard to miss focus even with 45mm f1.8
    But you have a huge point there, and I do more preparing and planning the staff Instead of Action anyway.)

    Sent from my D5503 using Mu-43 app