OM-D E-M5 What I see is not what I get!

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by spacecreature, Sep 10, 2014.

  1. spacecreature

    spacecreature Mu-43 Regular

    Dec 7, 2012
    I have had the OMD for a while now, and it has served me well but I keep wondering what I can adjust in the settings to have the LCD/EVF show me the resulting image before it is captured. The previews are always much nicer than the final captured images, aren't they supposed to be the same? I have turned off Live view boost, but it is still quite different. The preview image showing on the lcd is often brighter , more contrasty with much more saturation , and then when i push the shoot button i get this dull image, which is often slightly less exposed. I mostly shoot in natural mode.

    Any tips?? Or is this just how it is supposed to be?

  2. Bif

    Bif Mu-43 Veteran

    May 28, 2012
    San Angelo TX
    Real Name:
    Bruce Foreman
    It may be somewhat dependent on what mode you are shooting in. I believe the "CONSTANT PREVUE" (Panasonic terminology for the setting) set to ON only works in Manual or Manual video. If you shoot in P, A, or S the EVF and LCD will only show you the "perfect" exposure those modes will "try" to give you.

    If you are in M or video M then perhaps you need to adjust your viewfinder brightness (and maybe Contrast) for a "dimmer" image. Be very careful with this and be prepared to reset those to "default" if you don't get predictable results.

    You likely will never get a "perfect" match, some "education" of your eye will still be necessary.
  3. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jun 26, 2013
    Real Name:
    Andrew Lossing
    You should have the option to adjust display characteristics to your heart's content, though I would have no idea how to do it on an EM5!
  4. tornado

    tornado Mu-43 Veteran

    Nov 6, 2012
    Maybe the display preview using something like "Vivid" mode and you are shooting in natural the after capture version is dull/lower contrast than the preview.
    Not sure there is much that can be set for preview display, other than live boost, WB and brightness.
  5. LowTEC

    LowTEC Mu-43 Regular

    Did you see your captured image as RAW or JPEG?
  6. MuBear

    MuBear Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 4, 2014
    Costa Rica
    I have noticed my display will always have a green tint, but I don't really mind as long as the exposure is correct. I know you can change the temperature in the options but as I said, it doesnt bother me.
  7. flamingfish

    flamingfish Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Nov 16, 2012
    Real Name:
    If I understand this correctly, the camera is showing you a JPEG, which already has some processing applied. If you're shooting in RAW and open it in a program that doesn't automatically do some adjustments when you open the image, it will look drab. RAW images need "developing" to look good.

    I'm still a noob at this, particularly in post-processing, but I believe that Lightroom automatically applies a bit of "developing" to a RAW image when you open it, although you have the option of zeroing it out and starting from scratch. I have no clue what other programs may do.

    If you're shooting JPEGs, maybe you do need to adjust your EVF. I'm not at home at the moment, or I'd check the "bible," that is, the David Busch E-M5 book.
  8. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 20, 2012
    Melbourne, FL

  9. spacecreature

    spacecreature Mu-43 Regular

    Dec 7, 2012
    Even if I use vivid mode or any other mode the captured image is never like the preview image.

    Another thing is I use spot metering, and everything else is on manual. Even though I set exposure manually, when I place the spot over a dark area the preview brightens and if I place it on a light area the preview darkens, so it is automatically adjusting regardless of what my manual settings are..

    I guess that is just how it work and the "what you see if what you get" mirrorless thing is not very accurate ..

    Oh well thanks for all your replies anyway. If you have any other suggestions please leave more comments, Thanks.
  10. David A

    David A Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 30, 2011
    Brisbane, Australia
    Light meters assume that what they're measuring has a standard reflectance value, 12%, and base their exposure recommendation on that. If you meter a totally black area the meter will assume it is a mid-grey and the exposure it recommends will make the area mid-grey in the final image. If you meter a totally white area the meter will still assume it is mid-grey and the exposure it recommends will make the area mid-grey in the final image. Meter's aren't "smart", they simply measure light and in order to give an exposure recommendation their software has to make an assumption on how much of the light falling on the subject is being reflected. The assumption is that an average amount of the light falling on the subject is being reflected. If you're measuring a dark area or a light area, not an area of average tone, you have to adjust the exposure to suit. The meter has no idea just what it is you're measuring, it simply measures the light falling on its sensor. It can't do anything else.

    The E-M5 has 3 spot meter modes: spot, spot highlight, and spot shadow. The spot mode assumes you're measuring a normal tone. The spot highlight and spot shadow modes assume what you're measuring is a highlight or a shadow respectively. If you want to measure a bright part of the scene, use spot highlight. If you want to measure a dark area, use spot shadow. Then those areas will turn out light or dark as appropriate, but they still may not turn out as light or as dark as you want them to. Those modes are intended to ensure that you can still see detail in those areas so the bright area you measure with spot highlight will not go pure white and the dark area you measure with spot shadow won't go pure black.

    Meters are dumb. They don't think for themselves. They don't know what the photographer is measuring or how dark or light the photographer wants it to turn out. All they can do is measure the amount of light being reflected and give an exposure recommendation based on that amount of light and an assumption about how dark or light the area being measured is. It's up to the photographer to know how the area they're measuring compares to the assumption being used by the meter and to adjust their exposure accordingly. Meters give you information you can use, they don't give you a guarantee that the exposure they suggest will deliver the result you want because they can't.

    The spot meter modes are the "trickiest" meter modes to use. That's because they're measuring a very small area of the frame and the area being measured may not be representative of what the overall tone of what's in the frame is. The normal mode and the centre weighted mode base their recommendations on everything that is in the frame by taking an overall average or a weighted average respectively. In many ways they are more likely to give you a useable exposure but they too will fail to give you the result you want if there's a lot of dark areas in the frame and you want to keep them dark, or a lot of light areas and you want to keep them light but at least they do take account of all of the light and dark areas in the frame. With the spot meter modes only a very small part of the frame is being measured and if that small part isn't representative of the type of area the spot mode you chose is intended to measure then you will most definitely not get the result you want. Spot metering is more precise, but it means you have to be more precise in what area you measure and how you interpret the meter's recommendation.

    Meters are great. They really do what they are intended to do but what they are intended to do may not be what many users want them to do. Meters can't read the users mind. It's up to the user to use the meter appropriately.
  11. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Real Name:
    In the menu go to Setup (wrench icon), Monitor Brightness (a monitor with a bar graph underneath it) and then use the Info button to change your display to Natural from Vivid.

    Or change your Picture Mode to Vivid.