Olympus Pro Lenses - Very Soft/Poor Focus Results

mrjoemorgan

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And this is the same body, with just the 40-150.

JOEM0251.jpg
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relic

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Super dumb question: I don't suppose that those high end cameras have the option to focus using only contrast AF? In the current case, super fast autofocus would not be required I think. Sorry if this is much too dumb to post. Of course that doesn't help answer why or where the focus error is happening or what to do about it.
 
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Bengeo

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My 300mm is fine on its own, but needs +5 on the focus adjust with both converters. If you think it is front focussing then I would do some trial and error tests perhaps at +5 and +10.
 

mrjoemorgan

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To me this one looks like the focus is about at the shoulder. Were you trying to focus on the face/eye? Although a little hard to tell since the face highlights are blown out, I can not tell is the lack of detail is from blow out or from being outside the DoF.
On the forum image, it does look that way. Here is a SS from LR. The nose to the shoulder is in focus it seems. When shooting, I would focus on the nose, half-press, and then recomposed. The EXIF shows the green box on the shoulder though.
 

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mrjoemorgan

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So a couple of thoughts:

1) Subject Distance
When the subject it more than 20m away that's when things start to soft/ out of focus. However, the 40-150 does seem to remain sharp, you just have to heavily crop. Also with my 12-40 doing landscape stuff, when a castle is a few hundred meters away, it's in focus. So I'm not sure this theory is correct.


2) Focal length
Anything over 150mm and issues arise. This would explain why the issues only happen with the MC14, MC20 and 300mm. I used to have an EM5.2 and my MC14 with 40-150 was nice and sharp. The MC20 and 300mm were new additions post getting the EM1.2.

However, if I use anything over 150mm but less than 20m distance then its okay.

So is it a combination of focal length and distance?

Could it be a body issue? But if all my other lenses are fine on the body, and just anything over 200mm in focal length, does that even make sense?

Is it an IBIS issue? I've noticed that I change the camera to give IBIS priority of FPS, that FPS is heavily reduced when using anything over 150mm (burst rate is about half) - but it's totally fine with all lenses under 150mm.

Maybe I should just send my entire kit into Olympus and ask they do a thorough investigation.
 
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Phocal

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Focus adjustments only apply to CAF? I didn't know that, interesting.
Yes the micro focus adjustment only effects focus when PDAF is used, which is only in CAF. Depending on the model of EM1 when in SAF the camera will use PDAF to drive the lens quickly to the approximate focus distance but after that it switches to CDAF like the rest of the Olympus cameras. Regardless in SAF the final focus is achieved using CDAF and is not effected at all by any setting in the micro focus adjustment. Then in CAF the camera only uses PDAF and will adjust focus based on the information in the micro focus adjustment.
 

mrjoemorgan

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Yes the micro focus adjustment only effects focus when PDAF is used, which is only in CAF. Depending on the model of EM1 when in SAF the camera will use PDAF to drive the lens quickly to the approximate focus distance but after that it switches to CDAF like the rest of the Olympus cameras. Regardless in SAF the final focus is achieved using CDAF and is not effected at all by any setting in the microfocus adjustment. Then in CAF the camera only uses PDAF and will adjust focus based on the information in the microfocus adjustment.
That's good to know, thank you. So micro-adjusting won't help me in this scenario. Either the body and/or the glass is having issues. Or I am doing something incredibly wrong when I am photographing.

Could a body possibly go wrong/have issues focusing after a certain focal length and/or after a certain distance away?
 

PakkyT

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Focus adjustments only apply to CAF? I didn't know that, interesting.
If you want to prove this to yourself, you can set the micro adjust WAYYYYY out of whack to one extreme or the other. Then shoot normally in S-AF and you will see the focus is still correct. Now change to C-AF and the focus should now be way off.
 

mrjoemorgan

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My 300 Pro isn’t sharp either, and I suppose it is possible that it started after a small bump. It’s disappointing to hear that Olympus UK didn’t find anything wrong.
How "unsharp" is it? Enough that photos are not usable? Have you ever got it fixed or looked at? Any other lenses show the same issues?
 
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It’s noticeably soft, but it wasn’t always like that, which is why I‘m wondering if something may have happened to it. I don’t have any other lenses that I feel are soft.

I haven’t gotten it looked at yet, but I’m still considering it. Your experience doesn’t give me much hope, though.
 
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