Olympus OM-D E-M10 HSS / FP with Godox V850

Discussion in 'Lighting Forum' started by star bright star light, Dec 22, 2015.

  1. star bright star light

    star bright star light Mu-43 Rookie

    Dec 22, 2015
    Thought I would share my experience:

    Camera: Olympus OM-D E-M10
    Flashes: Olympus FL-600R for initiating FP / HSS only
    Godox / Neewer V850 / TT850 with attached FT16s receiver
    Radio Transmitter / Trigger: Godox FT16

    Place Olympus flash in camera hotshoe. Turn camera and flash on and activate FP mode. I suggest the "M" FP mode.
    Turn Olympus flash off. Slide flash off hot-shoe. Secure and store this flash safely.
    Slide Godox FT16 transmitter trigger into camera hot shoe
    Turn FT16 transmitter trigger on.
    Turn Godox / Neewer V850 / TT850 on. Initiate HSS mode on this flash.
    Adjust power level of flash - from Full to 1/128
    Shoot camera at any shutter speed up to fastest (1/4000 sec.)

    Do not turn camera off or select other exposure modes (leave set to FP) or you will be required to repeat the initial couple of steps.

    I expect this would work with Godox AD-180, Godox AD-360, Interfit S1 / S1a and other strobes with similar functionality / capabilities.

    Your actual mileage may vary. Test and ensure whatever setup you choose does work successfully before attempting any actual "for real" photo capturing.

    Best regards.
    • Like Like x 3
  2. hpat185

    hpat185 New to Mu-43

    Dec 16, 2015
    Very interesting report. Did you try all power levels from 1 to 128? This is a game changer as other hacsk with other flash brands require full power.
  3. MichaelSewell

    MichaelSewell Mu-43 Veteran

    Sep 1, 2015
    Burnley, UK
    Real Name:
    Michael A. Sewell
    The reason it requires full power is because speedlights utilise IGBT technology which cuts the power dump from the capacitor on reduced power settings.
    Using this hack, the timing isn't an exact science, and relies on making use of the light tail to cover the exposure. The IGBT cuts the output, which means there is no tail, and the light output may have been finished before the exposure is made.

    Utilising this tail hack can mean that your exposure may appear under exposed, or have a colour shift, but both of these characteristics can be speedlight specific, and changing the speedlight can give you a different result.

    Why underexposed? Because the timing may cause the exposure to occur further along the tail, where the light is dying.
    Why the colour shift? Think of a standard electric bulb. It's bright white when on, but as you turn the power off, it briefly dims through orange before going out. You can get a similar change in white balance as the light dies.

    If this hack does utilise the different power settings available, then I would certainly be interested in fully testing this out and making use of it.
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2015
  4. star bright star light

    star bright star light Mu-43 Rookie

    Dec 22, 2015
    With all due respect, when you activate "HSS" mode on the Godox V850 (and some other flashes / strobes / speedlites), you are doing the opposite of creating a "long / slow burn" flash. You are causing the flash to "pulse" rapidly for an amount of time long enough to cover the camera shutter travel time.

    For anyone interested in understanding more about the general concepts - head on over to:

  5. MichaelSewell

    MichaelSewell Mu-43 Veteran

    Sep 1, 2015
    Burnley, UK
    Real Name:
    Michael A. Sewell

    In which case, using the tail synch hack is probably better suited to my needs due the greater power loss of pulsed output, although you would certainly get more consistent coverage.

    Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  6. Repp

    Repp Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 27, 2011
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Was curious to see if anyone has tried this with a Pany model as well? I've been looking at maybe upgrading to an AD360/850 mixed kit.
  7. pogipoints

    pogipoints Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 6, 2015
    Real Name:
    Neil M
    Just tested this on an Oly EM1 with a Godox AD360 and the Neewer FT16 wireless. Used an Oly FL36, set to FP Manual.
    Followed the steps exactly as above.

    Tested at various speeds from 1/400 to 1/8000. Seems that it gets darker past 1/640 at the same power level (tested at 1/8).
    Also tested 1/8000 at various power levels, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 & 1/1. As expected, the image gets brighter the higher the level.

    Also noticed that the AD360 in HSS mode has a minimum power level of 1/8.

    Pretty cool. Now I just need to get a couple of V850s to have a complete off-camera flash system that works with HSS.