Olympus OM-D E-M1 HSS FP High Shutter Speed with YONGNUO YN-560

Discussion in 'Lighting Forum' started by hpat185, Dec 16, 2015.

  1. hpat185

    hpat185 New to Mu-43

    Dec 16, 2015
    I want to report the use of the following setting that allows use of a flash for OFF CAMERA FLASH using high shutter speeds with a cheap flash (such as the YONGNUO 560IV):

    1. Put on the on-camera little flash that came with E-M1 (or E-M5). Tilt up the flash (which turn the little flash ON)
    2. Activate RC Mode to ON (Shooting Menu 2)
    3. On the super control panel select the FP subpanel (you might need to press INFO if you are in the super panel). On the FP control panel, select the "super FP flash mode" located on the right of the panel (not the "normal" flash mode). Your on-camera little flash will appear as OFF in the panel. Your little on-camera flash will be used as trigger to any external optical "RC" compatible flash (but you do not need one!). If you shoot with the little on camera flash in this mode alone you will get a picture with ambient light only. At high speeds you will get a black picture as it is only used to trigger other flashes.
    4. Use your YONGNUO 560 (I used YN-560IV) as Slave in the S2 mode in full power (1/1) mode. Position the YONGNUO sensor facing the little Olympus on-camera flash. The other flash modes do not work ("M", "TX", "RX", "S1"). Other flash power settings do not work (1/2, 1/4, 1/8...1/128)
    5. Enjoy the use of high shutter speeds with a cheap flash

    Note: Technically is not FP as the type of lighting created with the above method is based on triggering the flash only once but relaying on the long duration of the YONGNUO flash burst at 1/1 power. On the other hand, FP lighting is based on a series of flash burst at a high frequency with a low flash power. With a flash in full power, the above method allows the use of of the flash tat relative long distance from the subject. I tested all speeds above synchronization from 1/400 up to 1/8000

    Method # 2 (Updated on Dec 17, 2015 00:15 AM)
    Enhancing method 1 you could trigger other YONGNUO units using the remote RF603II (See attached schematics)
    1. Follow steps 1,2,3 from above
    5. Use a YONGNUO 560 (I used YN-560IV) as Slave in the S2 mode in low power (1/128)
    6. Use an infrared optical slave with a hotshoe trigger(I used Dot Line IR Flash Trigger with Hot Shoe DL-0130 B&H Photo Video) to capture the light from YN-560IV
    7. Attached a remote trigger (YONGNUO RF603II in TRX mode) to the infrared optical slave's hotshoe
    8. Add as many YONGNUO 560 flashes as the main lights. These flashes must be in receiver mode to receive signal from RF603II

    NOTE: To avoid light coming from the slave unit (Step 5) in addition to decreasing the flash power to 1/128, cover the head of the unit with the flash bag
    Schematic HSS E-M1 Flash.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 23, 2015
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  2. Tony Rex

    Tony Rex Mu-43 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2015
    Melbourne, Australia.
    Tony Rex
    Very clever hack. Thanks for sharing. I might try this later this week. My question is, why not attach the IR trigger straight on a 560TX or the RF-603II? I mean:

    FL-LM2 optically triggers the IR trigger + 603II or 560TX then radio triggers multiple 560IV ? Or all this wouldn't work without the 560IV on S2 bridge?
  3. hpat185

    hpat185 New to Mu-43

    Dec 16, 2015
    Does not work with the IR adapter I am using. It seems that the olympus FL-LM2 pre-flashes bursts while the "FP" setting is ON, a feature similarly used in TTL for pre-measuring the amount of flash light required. The pre-flash burst is forcing the "dumb" analog IR adapter I have to trigger when senses the first burst of flash light. It would be nice if someone in this forum test this hack with a smart digital IR trigger like the Wein Peanut Digital Slave or the Morris DS-1 which claim they do not trigger during the pre-flash burst. I also read somewhere that some of the digital IR adapters trigger at the "second" burst, not at the "last". Thus, the hack with these digital IR devices might or might not work. This also explains why the hack does not work with the YN650 in S1 mode, as the S1 triggers when the the first burst of light is detected.

    In Method # 2, FL-LM2 optically triggers the IR of the first YONGNUO flash I use in S2 mode (let's call this Y1). Because this unit is smart by distinguishing the pre-flash burst with the actual final trigger-light, then the Y1 optically triggers the small "dumb" IR adapter at the appropriate time required. The RF503II attached to the hotshoe of the "dumb" IR adapter radio triggers multiple YONGNUO flashes that I use as main and secondary lights for my shoots. These multiple flashes are in Manual mode where I control the power to obtain desired exposure ratios. It happens that I have 560IVs but I think this could be accomplish with 560III flashes.

    You could also use the 560TX transmitter for manipulating remotely the power of the multiple YONGNUO flashes, but this transmitter will not act as commander to trigger the multiple YONGNUO devices. The trigger comes from the RF603II.

    I also think that the Y1 flash (the YONGNUO 560IV in S2 mode at 1/128 power) could be replaced but any other model or any brand in SLAVE mode capable to disregard the pre-flashes sent by FL-LM2. It happens that I only have 560IVs

    Finally, if any of the "smart" or digital IR triggers work, we could simplify this hack, by attaching the "digital" IR trigger directly to the 560TX (or RF603II if you do not have a 560TX), eliminating the need of the Y1 flash.
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2015
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  4. pogipoints

    pogipoints Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 6, 2015
    Neil M
    Question on the RF603II attached to the IR adapter. When attached, are both lights lit green, or just the left one? I can't seem to get the IR adapter to trigger the RF603II.
    I know the IR adapter works, because when I attach the 560TX to it, it triggers the remote flashes, though seemingly not at the right time. The flash lights don't show in the image at all.

    I bought the exact same IR via the B&H link above.

    I did have to mod one of the RF603II units for it to work on my EM1. However I tried both the modded and unmodded units, and could not get either to trigger.
  5. hpat185

    hpat185 New to Mu-43

    Dec 16, 2015

    When attached none of the lights turn green. When the FL-LM2 lights on, the RF-60II "E" light turns red briefly.
    1. Check that the remote flashes are in "603" mode as explained in the YONGNUO manual. It could be they are in "602 mode"
    2. Test if the RF-603II triggers the remote YONGNUO flashes by pressing the Multifunction button "F" while attached to the IR trigger (Dot Line DL-0130). Your remote YONGNUO flashes should light up. If they do not light up with the manual trigger from RF-603II, then this indicate there is a problem in comunicaiton with the RF603II and the remote flashes. Let us know if you are able to manually trigger the remote flashes
    3. Check if you are attaching the RF-603II properly to the IR (Dot Line DL-0130) . The IR sensor "red plastic" should be in the same direction as button "F" of the RF-603II Make sure the IR (Dot Line DL-0130) sensor "sees" the light of the Y1 flash (the optical slave in S2 mode)​

    If you have the 560TX technically you do not need the RF603II, but it is cumbersome to enclose in a bag the SLAVE flash (identified above as Y1) and the IR attached to the 560TX. With this setup you loose the flexibility to adjust the remote flashes if the 560TX is enclosed in a bag. I tried this setup with the 560TX and it works.
    If your 560TX attached to the IR triggers the remote flashes at the wrong time, that is telling me that your set up is wrong. Is the IR (Dot Line DL-0130) triggered by the Y1 flash or by the EM-1 camera flash? Are you sure the Y1 flash is in SLAVE S2 mode with the Y1's IR sensor facing the EM1 FL-LM2 flash?

  6. pogipoints

    pogipoints Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 6, 2015
    Neil M
    1. Yes, all YN560s are in 603 mode. I can trigger them when the RF603II is on camera.
    2. For some reason when the RF603II is not on a camera that is turned on, it does not trigger the flashes. When it's on the camera the blue light on the YN560 is lighted, and it works fine. When on the IR unit, it will not trigger the flashes.
    3. Confirmed, attached correctly.

    I have the IR unit + 560TX inside a bag. I confirmed that it's not triggered by the EM1 flash by turning off Y1, and the remote flashes do not fire.

    I did the following test, though I'm not sure how relevant they are:
    - EM1 RC Mode is On, shutter at 1/200 (not at HSS speeds), using FL-LM2
    - Flash/FP set to FP, 560III & 560IV flashes set to either all S1 or all S2, they all fire, but do not show in the photo.
    - Flash/FP set to Flash, 560III & 560IV flashes set to either all S1 or all S2, they all fire, and show in the photo.

    When I use the FL-36 flash on the EM1, using auto, I've confirmed that S1 fires, and S2 does not.

    Maybe there's a configuration I'm missing on the EM1?
  7. hpat185

    hpat185 New to Mu-43

    Dec 16, 2015
    Assuming your remote Yongnuo flashes are in RX mode (receiver) and the RF603Ii in RX not connected to anything (camera or IR), pressing manually the RF603II multifunction button should trigger the flashes.

    If your remote flashes trigger, indicating that the communication is OK, put the RF603II in TRX mode with the attached IR trigger (Dot Line DL-0130). In this mode the peripheral flashes are triggered only if a light triggers the IR (Dot Line DL-0130). Try again the hacks and let us know.

    I edited the instructions as there was a typo (RX is now replaced as TRX mode).
  8. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror! Subscribing Member

    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Darn near fried an Fl-36 using a BFT (black foamy thing) bent over the light (by accident). It did not like having the BFT so close to the light, it partially melted it. I'd be careful putting the bag over the flash.
  9. hpat185

    hpat185 New to Mu-43

    Dec 16, 2015
    Thanks for the warning. Another reason for having the Y1 flash in 1/128 power which theoretically could be safer.
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2015
  10. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror! Subscribing Member

    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Yeah, I was at almost full power.
  11. asystem

    asystem Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 13, 2015
    Jack Bauer / Batman / Spiderman
    I don't own anymore any Yongnuo flashes but instead I have few Elinchrom BRX studio flashes.

    I did yesterday evening and this morning some tests and I'm a bit confused.

    Why I'm confused is this

    by anttivarhe, on Flickr

    Nothing special in the image but exif is quite exciting

    ISO 800
    1/8000 shutter speed

    What? HSS with Elinchrom BRX 500 studio flash and Skyport Speed trigger. Manufacturer says that Speed version of trigger is able to do 1/320 sync speed. I don't know is my trigger broken or what is going on but this will make my face look like this :biggrin:

    EDIT: Looks like I found a solution. I have to attach the Nissin i40 into the hotshoe and enable some HSS shutter speed (e.g. 1/4000) before I attach the Skyport trigger. After that HSS works with BRX 250 and 500 without problems and black bars.
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2015
  12. Seems like this works with the YN560s as well, both on camera and remote triggered. I just tried the 1/1 power trick with my YN560-III, on hot shoe as well as triggered from the YN560-TX, and it 'syncs' even up to 1/8000s at full power. I presume it will also work with the RF-603s?

    This only seems to work if you've previously fired the i40 (or some other FP flash I presume) in FP mode, and without turning the camera off, swap in the YN560-TX or YN560-III on the hot shoe. The trick will work as long as you don't turn the camera off, auto-sleep is still fine.

    So an even larger operational envelope for the FP hack, without requiring a crazy elaborate set up or stray light/heat from trigger flashes.
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2015
    • Informative Informative x 1
  13. hpat185

    hpat185 New to Mu-43

    Dec 16, 2015
    The hack of activating the FP mode with a FP capable flash (olympus FLs or other compatible flash) first, and then removing them from the hotshoe for inserting another cheap flash was described more than 4 years ago for earlier olympus DSLR

    I suspect this hack is possible in any of the recent OM series. It would be nice if Olympus add this as a feature of activating FP without having a compatible flash in the hotshoe.
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