Olympus OM 135mm f/3.5 mount broken

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by Runefh, Jul 3, 2016.

  1. Runefh

    Runefh Mu-43 Rookie

    21
    Jul 26, 2015
    Denmark
    Hi you wizards of adapting lenses :)

    I have an Olympus OM 135mm f/3.5 lens which other apart from a broken functionality in the mount is working perfectly and is in mint condition.
    And here enters the reason for my post. It functions but my vanity makes me want to fix the broken part.

    The mount lock button gets stuck in released position and the mount has to be taken apart to "reset" the spring effect in the lock button. Here is a picture of the lock button:
    ImageUploadedByMu-431467543470.319303.

    It gets stick in this position when the spring stops working:
    ImageUploadedByMu-431467543507.948635.

    I have screwed the mount of the lens and in working condition it looks like this:
    ImageUploadedByMu-431467543565.696114.

    And now when the spring stops working this is what it looks like:
    ImageUploadedByMu-431467543608.934091.

    I have highlighted on the last image the problem, as you can see the spring is normally mounted with 2 plastic studs which has been melted to ensure the soring doesnt move. However one of these has broken off which cause the spring to move and results in the spring skipping out of position.

    I have searched eBay for a mount part or a broken OM lens with similar mount so i could replace the broken park, but the prices are similar to that of a new OM 135mm lens. So i'm trying to find a way to fix my current lens so the spring will work again.
    I know it is a vanity problem but disregarding that please help me because i don't wish to keep the OM-M43 adapter mounted as i store my legacy OM lenses in their original leather boxes, it's kind of a collector fetish i know :-D

    So, does anyone have any ideas what i can do to fix it?
    - Put in a small screw but i am aftaid it wont't grip well enough in the plastic base below the spring.
    - Glue the part broken off back in place using plastic glue to melt it back in place, but i am afraid it won't have enough strengt to not break off again.
    - Replace the mount part, but the cost issue mentioned above is stopping me :)



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  2. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi, if the price for a broken one is close to a good one, buy a good one and sell your broken one!
     
  3. eteless

    eteless Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 20, 2014
    I was curious so I opened my copy up and it was identical (the same part missing), however it hasn't missed a beat in 30 years...
     
  4. Runefh

    Runefh Mu-43 Rookie

    21
    Jul 26, 2015
    Denmark
    Thanks for the replies. I had an idea to today. I spend about and hour on it but had to prototype it also and try a few options. If i had to re-do it i think it would take 10-15 min. So its an easy fix.
    I cut out a plastic piece like this in 2mm thick clear plastic.
    ImageUploadedByMu-431467645402.350780.

    I put some double sided tape on and stick it in like this
    ImageUploadedByMu-431467645434.316502.

    When screwing the mount in place the piece gets hold in place due to the preassure of the mount base being pushed against the frame barrel og the lens. It seems to work for now. Before it would skip out after 8-10 clicks, now i have counted 100 clicks and it still workes, and looks the same after i took the mount off.

    And if it falls off i can always make another ;-)


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  5. Runefh

    Runefh Mu-43 Rookie

    21
    Jul 26, 2015
    Denmark

    Strange, guess the remaining pin in your case is holding the spring better in place.

    But i looked up the assembly instructions for the lens online and from that it looks like this mount is part of the "new" version of the lens. So now i know there are two versions as per how they were constructed :)


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  6. eteless

    eteless Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 20, 2014
    Mine is actually an in between model, it has the front casing of the first model however multicoated optics and the lighter new mount. Most later lenses started to have weight saving like this added (the 50mm f1.2 for example has very lightweight internals compared to the 1.4).
     
  7. Elmo

    Elmo New to Mu-43

    5
    Jun 29, 2016
    Bill
    Hi
    I had the same problem.
    Cured with a small blob of five minute epoxy over the hole in the spring (once it is in the correct position).
    Has not failed yet.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. Runefh

    Runefh Mu-43 Rookie

    21
    Jul 26, 2015
    Denmark
    Thanks for sharing, i had the same idea but thought it wouldn't hold due to the metal spring not having a 'rough' surface.


    Sent from my iPhone using Mu-43 mobile app
     
  9. Elmo

    Elmo New to Mu-43

    5
    Jun 29, 2016
    Bill
    If you are careful and let the epoxy overflow the spring a little then together with contact with the base via the hole it should hold fine.
    You could always degrease the spring first.
     
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  10. PakkyT

    PakkyT Mu-43 Top Veteran

    767
    Jun 20, 2015
    New England
    The real problem here is you need to sell the f3.5 version and get the f2.8 version. Problem solved!:biggrin:
    :laugh1:
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  11. eteless

    eteless Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 20, 2014
    I'm perfectly happy with the f3.5 lens, the two thirds of a stop difference won't be noticed in depth of field and is also pretty negligible for exposure (assuming that you're using the lens wide open, stopped down there is no difference at all). If light is so much of a problem that the faster is trumping the slow I'm going to use the 50mm f1.2 or 85mm f2.0 anyway... or just skip to the end - go digital with stabilization and the option to pump the ISO with little downside.

    While going after new gear for minor perceived upgrades can be fun, I don't think the way many people pursue new equipment in an attempt to improve their photography is entirely productive, cost effective, or healthy (modern society in a nutshell). I believe it's better to be highly comfortable with your equipment and learn what limitations are imposed by it (and eventually ways around them: experience, skill, and familiarity with 'inferior' equipment will beat naivety with superior equipment every time). If you get to the stage that you're confident the equipment is what's holding you back from further success go ahead and buy the new. The experience gained by working around any shortcomings will last from one camera to the next and provides small perks such as being able to function without optimal equipment on hand (more interesting images are produced when you're thinking about the composition rather than what you would do differently if only you had bought *that* lens today).

    TLDR: it would require 55mm filters which I do not currently use (49mm is my jam baby).
     
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  12. One possible option is to obtain a junker lens on eBay and use the parts from it. Those pieces should be on most, if not all, the Oly OM lenses. There's usually sellers with badly scratched or broken lenses for fairly reasonable prices. Just a thought.
     
    • Winner Winner x 1
  13. gnarlydog australia

    gnarlydog australia Mu-43 Top Veteran

    978
    Feb 23, 2015
    Brisbane, Australia
    Damiano Visocnik
    slightly better than 2-minute epoxy is JB Weld. The epoxy works great for bonding two parts but has failed me when there was not so much to grab. JB Weld has a metal filler that might be stronger when creating the "stud" (broken plastic) over the hole. Of course if one does not have epoxy glue with filler, ordinary epoxy works in 99% of cases over the other slightly better stuff.
    I am just a fan of JB Kwik Weld :)
     
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