Olympus lens compatibility-Lumix

grahng

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I have an Olympus OMD EM 5 mark 3 and am considering purchasing the

Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 35-100mm f/2.8 II POWER O.I.S. Lens MFR #H-HSA35100. Please advise if the lens will be ...FULLY/100% compatible? Thank you, Jerry

 

DeeJayK

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Yes, as TNcasual notes, that lens and, in fact, EVERY Micro Four Thirds lens regardless of the maker is 100% compatible with EVERY M4/3 camera.

It's just that some lenses may offer extra features that will be available only with bodies from the same manufacturer.

- K
 

davidzvi

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The main incompatibilities you run into are:

Dual IS - Panasonic / Sync IS - Olympus
DFD Auto Focus - Panasonic
Pro Capture features - Olympus
 

Hendrik

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Here's another: only select Oly lenses are capable of in-camera focus stacking.
 

Avondale87

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If it has a FN (Function) button does that cooperate?
I don't know, just commenting. If that's a feature you value.
 

retiredfromlife

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Also weather sealing gasgets are different diameters so weather sealing may not be completely compatable. Lots of debate abosut this and some topics on this forum covering the issue
 
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I have an Olympus OMD EM 5 mark 3 and am considering purchasing the

Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 35-100mm f/2.8 II POWER O.I.S. Lens MFR #H-HSA35100. Please advise if the lens will be ...FULLY/100% compatible? Thank you, Jerry

The notes above are all good and something to consider. It depends what you are looking for. If you are just looking for a great lens that is small and will work great for taking photos, then you cannot go wrong. If you specifically feel that you need something that has been pointed out above, then you need to reconsider.

I have been shooting Olympus bodies since early 2011 and have shot 90% of my photos using Panasonic lenses and I have never felt that I was being held back. My most used lens is the 12-35/2.8. I specifically have the lens you are asking about and think this 35-100 is a great lens. I generally turn off the lens image stabilization and rely on the Olympus In body image stabilization. For my Panasonic 200/2.8 lens, I turn off the in body Olympus stabilization and use the lens image stabilization.

For me, any small feature that I might give up that is Panasonic specific is less important than the overall image quality and size benefits of this lens.
 

grahng

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The notes above are all good and something to consider. It depends what you are looking for. If you are just looking for a great lens that is small and will work great for taking photos, then you cannot go wrong. If you specifically feel that you need something that has been pointed out above, then you need to reconsider.

I have been shooting Olympus bodies since early 2011 and have shot 90% of my photos using Panasonic lenses and I have never felt that I was being held back. My most used lens is the 12-35/2.8. I specifically have the lens you are asking about and think this 35-100 is a great lens. I generally turn off the lens image stabilization and rely on the Olympus In body image stabilization. For my Panasonic 200/2.8 lens, I turn off the in body Olympus stabilization and use the lens image stabilization.

For me, any small feature that I might give up that is Panasonic specific is less important than the overall image quality and size benefits of this lens.
Great response. Answered my questions exactly. I was concerned that since the 35-100 has OIS that if I just turned it off on the lens it would create an issue with the IBIS. By the way, if wanted, would both OIS and IBIS work together?
 
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Great response. Answered my questions exactly. I was concerned that since the 35-100 has OIS that if I just turned it off on the lens it would create an issue with the IBIS. By the way, if wanted, would both OIS and IBIS work together?
These two do not work together. You have to choose one or the other or they will fight each other in a way. The Dual IS available in some "same-manufacturer" combinations solves this problem but typically does not double the effect and only adds an additional stop or two. You will have the great IBIS of the Olympus which will do most of what a dual IS system would do anyway so it is not really a large limitation when using this lens with the IS set to off.
 

grahng

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These two do not work together. You have to choose one or the other or they will fight each other in a way. The Dual IS available in some "same-manufacturer" combinations solves this problem but typically does not double the effect and only adds an additional stop or two. You will have the great IBIS of the Olympus which will do most of what a dual IS system would do anyway so it is not really a large limitation when using this lens with the IS set to off.
Kinda what I thought. Thanks for confirming.
 

grahng

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The notes above are all good and something to consider. It depends what you are looking for. If you are just looking for a great lens that is small and will work great for taking photos, then you cannot go wrong. If you specifically feel that you need something that has been pointed out above, then you need to reconsider.

I have been shooting Olympus bodies since early 2011 and have shot 90% of my photos using Panasonic lenses and I have never felt that I was being held back. My most used lens is the 12-35/2.8. I specifically have the lens you are asking about and think this 35-100 is a great lens. I generally turn off the lens image stabilization and rely on the Olympus In body image stabilization. For my Panasonic 200/2.8 lens, I turn off the in body Olympus stabilization and use the lens image stabilization.

For me, any small feature that I might give up that is Panasonic specific is less important than the overall image quality and size benefits of this lens.
I agree.
 

emorgan451

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Let me show my ignorance. LOL. What is DFD
Depth From Defocus. It's a panasonic feature for autofocus where they have mapped the out of focus characteristics for each lens. They use this information to help the speed of the contrast detect autofocus in a continuous focus situation by comparing the out of focus areas between two shots to determine more quickly which way to adjust. Plain vanilla contrast detect has to rack focus quickly back and forth to find the most contrast on the focus point.
 

davidzvi

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If it has a FN (Function) button does that cooperate?
I don't know, just commenting. If that's a feature you value.
Lens FN (Function buttons) are only on Olympus Pro lenses (most but not all Pro lenses) and only function on Olympus bodies. Some PanLeica lenses have aperture rings, I believe all only functions on Panasonic bodies (I've only owned the Panleica 15mm). But these apply to specific lenses. But the AF no/off button/clutch work across brands as does the OIS on/off button.
Also weather sealing gasgets are different diameters so weather sealing may not be completely compatable. Lots of debate about this and some topics on this forum covering the issue
There is some debate about this, but for my money don't mix brands it you need sealing. And further more if you NEED SEALING, get Olympus.
Great response. Answered my questions exactly. I was concerned that since the 35-100 has OIS that if I just turned it off on the lens it would create an issue with the IBIS. By the way, if wanted, would both OIS and IBIS work together?
As mentioned, no this lens OIS will not work with the IBIS on the E-M5.3. But many Olympus bodies have the option for "Lens Priority". If set to on the body will turn off IBIS if it detects that lens OIS is on. With something like the 35-100 f/2.8 I'd turn lens OIS off and use IBIS. Conversely with something like the PanLeica 100-400 I'd probably use lens OIS as that tends to be better at longer focal lengths.
Let me show my ignorance. LOL. What is DFD
Just to expand on what @emorgan451 said. Olympus and most (all?) other camera manufacturers use phase AF systems for tracking subject motion in continuous auto focus (C-AF). Panasonic uses it's DFD for tracking motion in C-AF.
 

Generationfourth

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The notes above are all good and something to consider. It depends what you are looking for. If you are just looking for a great lens that is small and will work great for taking photos, then you cannot go wrong. If you specifically feel that you need something that has been pointed out above, then you need to reconsider.

I have been shooting Olympus bodies since early 2011 and have shot 90% of my photos using Panasonic lenses and I have never felt that I was being held back. My most used lens is the 12-35/2.8. I specifically have the lens you are asking about and think this 35-100 is a great lens. I generally turn off the lens image stabilization and rely on the Olympus In body image stabilization. For my Panasonic 200/2.8 lens, I turn off the in body Olympus stabilization and use the lens image stabilization.

For me, any small feature that I might give up that is Panasonic specific is less important than the overall image quality and size benefits of this lens.
Very similar experience here. I switched from G9 to em1iii... all my lenses are panasonic and I've had 0 problems. I prefer the smaller Panny lenses. I turn off the OIS switches on focal lengths below 100mm. Above that I flip the OIS switch to on. I keep the body on Auto-IS, from my understanding it is disabled once you turn OIS on the lens. If the lens doesn't have a switch there is an option in the menu to disable IS and use OIS, but that is a rare edge case.

Funny thing is the IBIS is so good on the em1iii I hand hold 5+ second exposures with the panasonic lenses. About 2-3 seconds better than I could do with the G9 + dual IS/OIS...

edit: I will add that I can't use Oly in camera focus stacking with the panasonic lenses, or the L pro capture mode which uses C-AF. Not a big deal because I can focus stack the traditional way and process it in post and every other feature works... LiveND, HHHR, etc.
 
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I acknowledge that there is some benefit to sticking with the same manufacturer for both lens and body due to the reasons pointed out in this thread but there are other issues to be considered too and a specific feature being off does not disable a lens. Sometimes our language makes it seem that you should (or almost must) stick with the same manufacturer for lens and body and this is likely confusing for new m43 users and likely unhelpful IMO. If you find a m43 lens of the size, focal length, f-stop, and reported image quality that makes sense for you, by all means I would reccomend getting it regardless of the manufacturer.
 

davidzvi

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I acknowledge that there is some benefit to sticking with the same manufacturer for both lens and body due to the reasons pointed out in this thread but there are other issues to be considered too and a specific feature being off does not disable a lens. Sometimes our language makes it seem that you should (or almost must) stick with the same manufacturer for lens and body and this is likely confusing for new m43 users and likely unhelpful IMO. If you find a m43 lens of the size, focal length, f-stop, and reported image quality that makes sense for you, by all means I would reccomend getting it regardless of the manufacturer.
Very true. I've always mixed and matched. Currently I have the E-M1.2 and Pen F bodies.

For glass:
PanLeica 8-18mm, 15mm, & 25mm
Panasonic 14mm & 20mm
Olympus 12-45mm Pro, 12-100mm Pro, & 75-300mm
Sigma 56mm
 

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