Olympus IBIS Seems To Still Be The Best

whumber

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Here is a good test of Nikon Z5 and Canon R5 IBIS. CIPA tests are 3-axis according to Thom Hogan. These guys got nowhere near the claimed IBIS performance, but more like 3-stops for 100 % accuracy.


This is the same issue that DPReview's methodology ran into before they stopped doing IBIS testing in their reviews, they did their measurements at very short subject distances which means translational movements become a much larger contributor to the camera shake and stabilization performance is substantially lower.
 

Mack

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I'll admit Olympus has far better stabilization on any current body verses my new Nikon Z7 II body. Sort of disappointed that the new Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 S lens for it has no OIS built into it like their older F-mount 24-70mm f/2.8 VR lens did. Guess they thought their new mirrorless bodies with IBIS would make up for not putting in in their new lens, but seems a mistake, imho.

My Z7 II slowest speed I'm comfortable with is 1/20-1/30 second at 70mm. Not a great improvement, but at least some headway. Olympus I could take down to one second and sometimes slower. FF still needs some work. Canon's R5 claim is maybe for somebody with full-stage rigor mortis setting in.
 

retiredfromlife

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At least for my hands, I have found Olympus IS claims to be a bit exaggerated also, maybe more like 4-5 stops with E-M1 II + 12-100mm F4. Which is still amazing, but I still wonder about the extra stop they claim for E-M1 III, which was announced only few months after I bought E-M1 II. Extra stop might mean no more tripod even at night, at least for wide angle, which would be revolutionary. Along with handheld hi-res and the AF joystick, maybe it would have been worth the extra $900 CAD or so. But of course, they raised the prices of all the Pro lenses around the same time too, so I would have paid more like $1200 CAD extra.
I think most Stabilization claims to be a bit optimistic for my use case, no way I could hold that many stops
To me stabilization is more useful for helping with holding the view steady with longer lenses

With regard to the stabilization on the EM1.3, I find it better than my EM10.2 but by how much I could not say but with the 12-100 I can tell the difference. But not enough to upgrade for to me if I had the previous model. But everyone differs in their use case for stabilization.
 

John King

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I think most Stabilization claims to be a bit optimistic for my use case, no way I could hold that many stops
To me stabilization is more useful for helping with holding the view steady with longer lenses

With regard to the stabilization on the EM1.3, I find it better than my EM10.2 but by how much I could not say but with the 12-100 I can tell the difference. But not enough to upgrade for to me if I had the previous model. But everyone differs in their use case for stabilization.
While I tend to agree with this, before I really started to go downhill, I could occasionally reach the figures advertised by Olympus for four of my five bodies. The E-PM2 IBIS is all but useless ...

BUT (a big 'but'), when I was about 20 y.o., I could hand hold at one second occasionally - i.e. I was very steady.

HOWEVER (a big 'however'), individual ability in this regard is enormously variable, and testing is best described by a word that the site language censor will not allow.

So, with all this in mind, one can really only rely on one's own experience.

Over the last 5-6 years, my ability to hand hold has decreased by one, maybe two stops. Depends on the day, time of day, etc, etc.

See the problem?
 

retiredfromlife

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While I tend to agree with this, before I really started to go downhill, I could occasionally reach the figures advertised by Olympus for four of my five bodies. The E-PM2 IBIS is all but useless ...

BUT (a big 'but'), when I was about 20 y.o., I could hand hold at one second occasionally - i.e. I was very steady.

HOWEVER (a big 'however'), individual ability in this regard is enormously variable, and testing is best described by a word that the site language censor will not allow.

So, with all this in mind, one can really only rely on one's own experience.

Over the last 5-6 years, my ability to hand hold has decreased by one, maybe two stops. Depends on the day, time of day, etc, etc.

See the problem?
Exactly my thoughts as well, thats why i always put a rider on stabilization posts. Back in my film days i could hold 1/15 sort of easily, now in mid sixties not a hope :whistling:
 

John King

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Exactly my thoughts as well, thats why i always put a rider on stabilization posts. Back in my film days i could hold 1/15 sort of easily, now in mid sixties not a hope :whistling:
It only gets worse, mate!

I'm approaching my 74th birthday.

Heart problems, musculo-skeletal problems (osteoporosis, osteoarthritis, osteopaenia) ,etc, etc. They all take their toll, as do medications.

I'm still grateful for the very effective IBIS in my cameras.
 

andy darbyshire

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Join the club as I am 83 I can just about carry and use my em10 ii with a zoom lens and the ibis is great but not perfect when I look at my older photos which were taken on nikon cameras both film and digital they were sharp however switching to m43rds has enabled me to still use a camera despite arthritic hips and copd. The answer is don't get old!!! lol
 

Mack

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Wish they'd put a stabilizer in my computer's optical mouse. With all the old-age twichiness I have, I often suddenly paint nice lines and corrections on things and people in Photoshop. :eek-31:

Even trying to do a copy and paste is problematic at times with the twitches. Was trying to write a "Dear sir. Your second E-M1 used camera stinks and the shutter speed dial is as erratic as the first POS one was." letter yesterday to an outfit that does IR conversions. Maybe it was the stress as it failed in first five minutes of getting it which brought the attack on. Aside, what a load of garbage that model was for the shutter-dial issue and their excuse is "We can't get parts for it anymore so we use used (defective?) top covers to fix 'em now." Grrrr!!! :wtf:
 

wolfie

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I was watching dpreview comparison of EM1 III vs G9 and stabilization at 4:25:
https://www.dpreview.com/videos/134...-mark-iii-who-s-the-king-of-micro-four-thirds
Chris was mentioning he can shoot consistently 1/3sec with EM1 III and 1/4 sec with G9...

When I used EM5 III with Pana 12-32mm, I pushed to 1.6sec (not consistently) vs when I tried SL2+m lens, I managed 1.3 sec indoors with 47MP sensor which most probably using Panasonic IBIS tech. Of course the FF sensor might be harder to stabilize... Hopefully we will see an independent testing from Matheiu with the other cameras... However, I think live nd is more interesting and so far nobody adopted that...
I drink 6 coffees a day and with my E-M1.2 ( only IBIS no lens synch) I can hand held to one second OK (see example photo below) - and that is holding the camera to look at the rear LCD as well - that reviewer must have lousy technique if they can only manage 1/4 second IMHO. And it shows how good the Olympus body IBIS performs.
P2060016.jpg
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Mack

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Here is a nice comparison video of the "claimed" 8-stops of stabilization of the Canon R5 verses the Olympus E-M1X. Not even close.


Even the R5 dynamic range looks pathetic. Canon's marketing must be really happy even with their misleading "claims."

Reminds me of when Apple got caught using large format footage and claiming it was out of their cellphone to promote sales.
 
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RS86

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Here is a nice comparison video of the "claimed" 8-stops of stabilization of the Canon R5 verses the Olympus E-M1X. Not even close.


Even the R5 dynamic range looks pathetic. Canon's marketing must be really happy even with their misleading "claims."

Reminds me of when Apple got caught using large format footage and claiming it was out of their cellphone to promote sales.

One must note that this is only for video IBIS, which makes much use of the 5-axis stabilization, rather than what the CIPA 3-axis test shows. Another area where 5-axis is better is slow shutter speeds because of pressing the shutter button and such movement, and also macro photography. For normal shooting with normal shutter speeds 3-axis CIPA test might be okay.

For stills the CIPA number comparison against Olympus might be a bit closer, but then again, Olympus seems to win a lot when the shutter speeds come closer to 1/30 or slower. Just like the video I shared in this thread earlier seemed to show, as the guys could not get any shots sharp at 1/2 seconds (with Nikon Z & R5) if I remember correctly.. And also what the X-T4 vs E-M1iii test showed.

What is weird is that FF cameras do have 5-axis IBIS too, but they are not performing nearly as well as Olympus in these areas. So it could be related to the limited space inside the camera vs the sensor size, or something else like the weight of the bigger sensor.

What I'm also thinking is that G9 has close to E-M1iii performance in IBIS, but is a bigger camera. So could it be that Panasonic has not yet been able to minimize the size of the IBIS system like Olympus.

Also that test should not be used to evaluate other performance than IBIS of either cameras. The tester does not seem very good at these things. There is no way R5 has worse DR than E-M1X. But the test should be fine for video IBIS performance imo.
 
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Machi

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At least for my hands, I have found Olympus IS claims to be a bit exaggerated also, maybe more like 4-5 stops with E-M1 II + 12-100mm F4...
From my experience it depends on the lens and on orientation.
When I first tested IBIS of E-M1II with 12-40mm f/2.8, results weren't anywhere close to the stated 5.5EV correction (more like ~3EV at 12mm). Similar results were obtained by optyczne.pl for E-M1III.
It was disappoinment.
Then I did some tests with primes and here IBIS really shines and correction 5-6EV is normal.
And with my E-M10II I've found that orientation is important too. I can easily shoot with 85mm lens at 3-4EV correction in the landscape orientation but in the portrait orientation it's much less (1-2EV).
 

doady

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From my experience it depends on the lens and on orientation.
When I first tested IBIS of E-M1II with 12-40mm f/2.8, results weren't anywhere close to the stated 5.5EV correction (more like ~3EV at 12mm). Similar results were obtained by optyczne.pl for E-M1III.
It was disappoinment.
Then I did some tests with primes and here IBIS really shines and correction 5-6EV is normal.
And with my E-M10II I've found that orientation is important too. I can easily shoot with 85mm lens at 3-4EV correction in the landscape orientation but in the portrait orientation it's much less (1-2EV).

Yes, I can see how the type of body/lens and how you hold it might be important too. Maybe small prime is easier to keep steady than a big, heavy zoom, and with portrait orientation the camera is not as fully supported by both hands, especially if the body has a smaller grip.

I probably should point out that my hands are very small, and prior to m4/3 I only used a compact point-and-shoot camera for 15 years, so a large "SLR" style camera like E-M1 II + 12-100mm is completely new to me, so I am still learning to hold it properly. Furthermore, I only drink 1-2 cups of coffee a day, so maybe another 4-5 more cups per day would also help me to attain the promised 6.5 stops of stabilization.
 

wolfie

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Two shots from this afternoon practicising my hand held long exposure technique - 2 seconds and 3.2 seconds (shot in S -mode) focus on Olympus on the view-finder hump. Not even doing the "eye to the viewfinder" bracing as it recommended for extra stability. This camera is converting me to using long exposures on a whim because I dont carry a tripod 99.9% of my photography excursions. Biggest problem is diffraction from using f22 because I haven't got a ND filter to reduce exposure in daylight conditions!

2 seconds
P4041242.jpg
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3.2 seconds
P4041245.jpg
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Out in the wild - balanced on some stream rocks to shoot this hand-held at 1 second
P3270063.jpg
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fortwodriver

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Don't forget, you can use the ND filter emulation with a slightly less elongated shutter time for a similar flowing-water effect out in the real world.

But yeah, it's impressive how well it does.
 

wolfie

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Don't forget, you can use the ND filter emulation with a slightly less elongated shutter time for a similar flowing-water effect out in the real world.

But yeah, it's impressive how well it does.
@fortwodriver I have the MkII which has not got the ND emulation unfortunately ... and which is another reason to update in the future!
 

fortwodriver

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@fortwodriver I have the MkII which has not got the ND emulation unfortunately ... and which is another reason to update in the future!

Oh oops! Well, in the meantime try playing with Live Composite. That may get you pretty close, too. On moving water, the shots that composite on top of each other should ignore the relatively stable ground and blur your water across multiple shots.
 
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