Olympus E-M1X will soon get a major firmware update…

[Mountain_Man_79]

Lots of info in this thread: https://www.mu-43.com/threads/em1-micro-focus-adjustment-why-and-how-to-perform.95155/

As a quick test put 3 bottles close together, in a diagonal line. Put them at a reasonable distance away. Focus on the centre one and take a few images using C-AF and see which bottle is the sharpest.
If the nearest one is sharpest then it is front focusing. If it's the back one then it is back focusing. Adjust the microadjust value by PLUS for front focus (or MINUS for back focus) and then it is trial and error until you get results you are happy with. You can easily set it to 0 again if you are not happy with your changes.

If you save a setting it will only apply to that lens / converter combination. If you use the lens on its own that setting will be switched off. If you want to use the converter on another lens then you would have to adjust again for that lens.

Whelp, I performed the test as described, and got good news/bad news.
Good news? Both my 300 and my 300 with the tele are dead on. No adjustments needed.
The bad news? See the’good news‘ section. I suppose this means my copy of the tele is so so at best. I was really hoping this would be a magic fix. Oh well. It was worth a shot.

 

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

Whelp, I performed the test as described, and got good news/bad news.
Good news? Both my 300 and my 300 with the tele are dead on. No adjustments needed.
The bad news? See the’good news‘ section. I suppose this means my copy of the tele is so so at best. I was really hoping this would be a magic fix. Oh well. It was worth a shot.

This thread might help (or make it worse):
https://www.mu-43.com/threads/olympus-pro-lenses-very-soft-poor-focus-results.108384/

 

[Bengeo]

Whelp, I performed the test as described, and got good news/bad news.
Good news? Both my 300 and my 300 with the tele are dead on. No adjustments needed.
The bad news? See the’good news‘ section. I suppose this means my copy of the tele is so so at best. I was really hoping this would be a magic fix. Oh well. It was worth a shot.

Perhaps try to borrow another converter to compare?

 

[Mike.K]

fast EVF framerate would reduce AF accuracy .

Surely this has nothing to do with AF accuracy Mike it's just the image in the EVF .

Rob.

One would think that but I went through a lot of settings and that is what I found, I believe it simply takes up processing power away from the AF.

 

[Mike.K]

AF-C Sensitivity: -2 and few points are bellow, the tutorial:

I thought that EVF set to high frame has a negative impact only on max FPS. In other words you cannot achieve 18 FPS with this setting. Also LOW ISO processing should be set to Drive priority instead of Detail priority [Menu >> Cog >> E1]. In some cases it is wise to disable Noise reduction [E1]. And the real dealbreaker is if an SD card with low write rate is used.

I did my tests in dull conditions indoors, anyone can try out using their gear in poor light and see what they find. The evf is getting its information off the sensor and through the processor, it's all using power. I found in a test indoors that in very poor light you only see a blur in the viewfinder in fast setting, but change to normal and you can see the target, AF works very slowly. In better light also indoors at noon the the AF was hunting using fast setting but achieved focus quickly using normal setting, obviously outdoors I had better results using either settings. There appears to be a level of light below which the fast setting affects AF, dusk could be below that level, I have repeated my tests and found this to be repeatable.

 

[Gy Rob]

One would think that but I went through a lot of settings and that is what I found, I believe it simply takes up processing power away from the AF.

Well I will give that a try but I thought the idea of 2 processors was that one is just for AF and the other takes care of everything else .

Rob.