Olympus 75-300ii AF/MF quality on different bodies

RBA62

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Just curious if anyone is shooting with or without a lens hood or any filters? I struggle as well with getting crisp shots with the 75-300 Mark II lens and an EM1 mark 1 camera.
 
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Just curious if anyone is shooting with or without a lens hood or any filters? I struggle as well with getting crisp shots with the 75-300 Mark II lens and an EM1 mark 1 camera.
I usually get best result with a hood and no filters on at less than 220mm.

As a quick example for you of what I consider marginaly sharp but acceptable,
this is a shot I got the other day with no hood and a cheap Hoya UV filter as lens protector instead of a lens cap (no scratches on the filter) - it does rob a little sharpness hence my preference for the hood but the hood is too long for the carrying case I now use.
This shot was taken with the E-M10mkii at noon at about 80 meters away from the birds at 300mm/7.1, 1/2500, ISO200 and all processing done is a single press on the iPad Photos automatic optimization "magic wand" and downscaled to 1600x1200 by Flickr. This shot “just” cuts it in my book - any softer and it is not a keeper.

48339368056_c30bf1dfe1_h.jpg
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Bidkev

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Can I ask why you sold the Panny 100-400 again in favour of the 75-300? My wife has got the latter and it's quite good, but we still wondered about getting the 100-400
I had birding in mind mainly and had intended to travel further afield, but due to ill health, the travel hasn't eventuated. In light of that, having shot most of the birds that exist in my location, I couldn't "cost justify" keeping the lens when all I would be doing is repeating similar shots. The money from the sale could result in the purchase of the 75-300 and also the Olly 75mm 1.8 which was a lens that I really wanted. I have limited means and make it a rule that I only buy something with the proceeds of the sale of something.
 

Bidkev

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Just curious if anyone is shooting with or without a lens hood or any filters? I struggle as well with getting crisp shots with the 75-300 Mark II lens and an EM1 mark 1 camera.
I don't believe in sticking another piece of glass in front of a lens that isn't "top notch" to begin with but I always have a hood on all my lenses, not just to minimise degredation of the image, but also as protection. Shooting here, with the sun well forward to the right, I wouldn't have pulled it off without a hood

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Juvenile Barking Owl (3) by Kevin Dickinson, on Flickr
 

D7k1

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I got my 75-300 II to use with my EP5. Even though I got the Pl100-400 I kept the 75-300II as it is a perfect travel lens and often I use it "down town" for its reach. Mine seems to be "sharp enough" for me.
PelicanOnWing.jpg
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HBBC.jpg
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On my PM1, em10 and GX80 I always used SF + MF to tune the focus. On my em1ii now the autofocus is fine without that final tweak.

It is very susceptible to camera movement and technique which also gives the appearance of being out of focus.
Of all the lenses I have owned this has been the one that I have found works differently on each of the bodies and I found I had to hold it differently on each camera to get the best results.

On the PM1, I used to take the weight holding the lens in the palm of my left hand with fingers free to tweak the focus from underneath and a very light grip on the camera I suspect the same will be needed with the PL5.

I rarely managed a good job with the em10, despite it being my favourite camera for years with every other lens. The GX80 improved things but the EM1ii is another level again.

I also have a 100-400, there is no comparison between these lenses, the 100-400 is better in every way except size and weight.
Hence I still have the 75-300.

I am off to the Womad festival next week, the 100-400 will party with me; the week after I am visiting friends in Sweden, and the 100-400 will stay home whilst the 75-300 has a holiday.
 

PeterHG

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The money from the sale could result in the purchase of the 75-300 and also the Olly 75mm 1.8 which was a lens that I really wanted. I have limited means and make it a rule that I only buy something with the proceeds of the sale of something.
Thanks for your explaining. I hope both lenses will give you many more great shots in the years to come!
 

RBA62

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Sorry for my delayed response to those who responded. It looks like I will buy the lens hood for the 75-300 II. I have looked around and there is a cheaper knock-off I will consider.
I will then remove the Hoya Pro1 Digital Filter to see if there are some improvements. I was afraid of accidentally scratching the lens without a hood, so I have been using the filter just to be on the safe side. Looks like you guys have your shooting technique down based on your photo samples. :thumbup:
 

ac12

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Warning, ALL of the cheap plastic hoods that I have used required shaving of the plastic mount to fit the lens properly.
They either speced the hood wrong, or the hood shrank/shifted during manufacturing.
 

ac12

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The 75-300 has generally been fine.
There have been occasions when the camera would focus on the background, when I "THOUGHT" I had the AF point on the subject.
I normally shoot single point AF, so that I can select where to focus on.

You should be using AF-S if you want to make sure the subject is in focus.
AF-S shutter will fire when in focus.
AF-C shutter will fire even if OUT of focus. Default setting for AF-C.

YOU need to place the AF point on the part of the subject that you want in focus.
Example, focusing on the jersey of a player, may result in the face being OOF, because the face may be on a different focus plane than the jersey.
When I shoot day sports, I use a smaller aperture, to give me more DoF, to let me focus on the jersey, and still have the face in focus.

Standard AF rule applies. Subject must have enough contrast to focus on.
AF is poor in LOW light and may fail when shooting mono-tone subjects (like a solid color shirt).
 

Reflector

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You should be using AF-S if you want to make sure the subject is in focus.
AF-S shutter will fire when in focus.
AF-C shutter will fire even if OUT of focus. Default setting for AF-C.
Do you have C-AF Release Priority set to off?
 

RBA62

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Warning, ALL of the cheap plastic hoods that I have used required shaving of the plastic mount to fit the lens properly.
They either speced the hood wrong, or the hood shrank/shifted during manufacturing.
Good to know..... thanks for the heads up.
 

Transalp01

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Warning, ALL of the cheap plastic hoods that I have used required shaving of the plastic mount to fit the lens properly.
They either speced the hood wrong, or the hood shrank/shifted during manufacturing.
I have 4 cheap plastic hoods. Never had this problem. But mine might not be the cheapest ones. I think that all are JJC brand. Even a JJC metall hood for 75/1.8 that works fine.
 

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