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Olympus 50-200SWD Questions

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by SVQuant, Oct 18, 2016.

  1. SVQuant

    SVQuant Mu-43 Top Veteran

    850
    Sep 20, 2015
    SF Bay Area, California, USA
    Sameer
    As a brand new owner of this lens (inspired by awesome samples in the image showcase), I have some questions as I am starting to use the lens.
    1. Thanks to a lack of communication between my past and future selves, I actually am an owner of 2 separate MMF-3s. Is there any reason to choose one over the other for this lens?
    2. I noticed a little bit of play between the MMF-3 (both copies) and the lens. Is this normal?
    3. I have a feeling that the lens may be front focusing a little on distant objects. Is this possible? How can I test more? Should I be looking at micro-focus tuning?
    4. Regarding autofocus, I was unable to get the lens to focus on the moon last night. I was trying my usual technique of putting an autofocus area on the edge of the moon's disc. For some reason, the lens kept hunting, but could not focus. Any thoughts? E-M1 in M-mode, 1/8f, 1/500s, ISO 200.
    I would appreciate input from current users of this lens. Thanks.
     
  2. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi,

    1. Not unless one is loose?

    2. Mine has a tiny bit of rotational wiggle.

    3. That's always possible with PDAF.
    You could download and print a focus target for a quick test... Try AF vs magnified MF I guess.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0BGj4dF7bZXdnlVTU13SW9uSkU

    4. Maybe a larger AF area would help. I've shot a lunar eclipse with my old E-3 and there was some hunting but it was usable. I don't have a 50-200 though.

    CDAF seems better at least with the 40-150 Pro, but nothing you can do to force CDAF on 4/3 lenses afaik.
     
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  3. Holoholo55

    Holoholo55 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 13, 2014
    Honolulu, HI
    Walter
    4. Mine has gone hunting a few times. Depending on the circumstances. Usually when I'm trying to shoot airplanes in flight, which is frustrating. When it does that, I usually resort to manual focusing, which works pretty well.

    Some have also said that the EM1 has horizontal type PD-AF sensors, not cross-point. Sometimes they said that holding the camera at an angle helps with the autofocusing. Try that just to see if it makes a difference. For shooting things like the stars or moon, I often found manual focus to work better no matter what lens you use.
     
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  4. SVQuant

    SVQuant Mu-43 Top Veteran

    850
    Sep 20, 2015
    SF Bay Area, California, USA
    Sameer
    Both seem to be just fine. I guess the one that came with the 50-200 might as well stay with it.

    Mine has a tiny rotational wiggle as well. I was just concerned because I did not notice any wiggle on the 14-42 which came with one of the MMF-3s. I guess the 50-200 is much heavier and holding it by the lens makes the wiggle more apparent.

    The lens came right around sundown yesterday, so the moon was the first thing I really tried to shoot later in the night. I'll experiment with it some more and see if I can do better.

    Good to know. I will try manual focusing tonight as well.
     
  5. alex g

    alex g Mu-43 Top Veteran

    549
    Mar 30, 2016
    New York / Bath
    I shot the moon last night with the 50-200 and EC-14, and found AF was more accurate using the E-M5 mk II than the E-M1, presumably because of the E-M5 mk II being CDAF only. I found that the manual focus resolution of the 50-200 was too coarse to be useful for fine-tuning with the moon as target.

    So maybe try it on your E-M10?
     
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  6. ijm5012

    ijm5012 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Oct 2, 2013
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Ian
    If you're using the original 50-200, then the focusing motors are completely different. I've owned both, so I'm familiar with how each of them works, and the original 50-200 had discrete "steps" in its focusing. The SWD model on the other hand doesn't have this issue, and thus is better for accurate MF work.
     
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  7. Phocal

    Phocal Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jan 3, 2014
    Do you have the original version or the SWD version?

    Are they both MMF-3's? I would mark one if they are and always use the same one, especially if you do a micro focus adjustment.

    Mine has a little bit of play on both my 50-200 and 150/2, was like that the day I got it. I have not noticed any problems with IQ or operation in 2 years of use.

    I have talked a lot about micro focus adjustment on this forum and DPR. I personally use the Focus Tune system (both target and software) and have found it very easy to use and produces outstanding results. For me, spending a few hundred dollars to ensure my lenses are always adjusted properly is a drop in the bucket compared to how much I spend going places to take photographs or the equipment. With my 150/2 I could not shoot wide-open because it front focused just enough to cause the point of focus to not be in focus. After performing the adjustment I can shoot wide-open with the smallest DoF and nail focus every time. This adjustment is not a one and done. Things wear in the lens and it needs done on a regular basis. I do my lenses twice a year and if I am heading out on an expensive photo trip I will do a check just to make sure. It takes me 15-20 minutes to do a lens (twice that for a zoom because you do both ends) and is so simple and worth the time and expense for the system.

    If you have any questions let me know and I will try to answer them.
     
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  8. alex g

    alex g Mu-43 Top Veteran

    549
    Mar 30, 2016
    New York / Bath
    I have the SWD version. I agree that the manual focus, being a mechanical linkage, is finer-grained than that on the 35-100 and the 150, but I still found it too coarse for fine-tuning on the moon. It's a relatively short travel focus ring, and my copy has a tendency to stick a bit sometimes.
     
  9. SVQuant

    SVQuant Mu-43 Top Veteran

    850
    Sep 20, 2015
    SF Bay Area, California, USA
    Sameer
    SWD. I read through a bunch of threads here and elsewhere and decided that the SWD was the way to go.

    Both MMF-3s. Wanted to make sure that I would have a weatherproof combo (for the occasional rain that we get here in CA :)). I think I will just pick one to tune focus and then sell the other one. I don't see myself buying any other 4/3rd lens in the near future and the adapter would just end up sitting in a drawer.

    Thanks for the recommendation. I have a few days before my son's first tournament of the season. I will see if I can get the focus adjustment done ahead of that. I got the E-M1 and the lens for under the cost of a 40-150 Pro, so I have a few dollars I could spare on it.
    Do you think that the moon focus issue is related to the focus adjustment as well? Maybe the lens cannot focus to infinity at the moment?
     
  10. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Re the wiggle, I noticed it recently with my 12-60mm, fwiw.

    Re the adapters, check that the O-ring on the side facing the camera is undamaged. It's hard to see, but easy to feel... It's towards the outside of the mounting surface.
     
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  11. Holoholo55

    Holoholo55 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 13, 2014
    Honolulu, HI
    Walter
    I agree. Examine the mounting surface and O-ring of each MMF-3 and pick them one that is in the best condition. Use a magnifier so you can see if there are any deep scratches on the 4/3rds side of the adaptor which could compromise the weather sealing and how worn the O-rings are.
     
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  12. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    I would also suggest you use the Fine AF Adjustment as the lens will likely be slightly out (that's common) using PD-AF on the E-M1.
     
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  13. Phocal

    Phocal Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jan 3, 2014
    I think most of the problem with focusing on the moon is probably the lack of cross-type focus points. Tonight I will go out with mine and see what happens and maybe have an answer. The one time I used my 50-200 on the moon I don't remember having any issues with focus, but it could just be my forgetfulness.
     
  14. SVQuant

    SVQuant Mu-43 Top Veteran

    850
    Sep 20, 2015
    SF Bay Area, California, USA
    Sameer
    OK. I looked at both the adapters pretty carefully. They both look to be in very good condition with the O-rings feeling supple and not damaged in any way. The one which I bought separately (came with a kit four-thirds 14-42 with a plastic mount) had some black residue on the four-thirds side, but a little rubbing alcohol took care of that. No scratches on either one. At this point, I'll just hang onto the one which came with this lens and the other one is up for sale.

    I tried again last night with indifferent success. I suspect that you and the others who mentioned it are right and it is more an issue with how the PDAF works. I recall an earlier post by you with some hints on what to look for (vertical features?) to assist PDAF, but I could not find it. Would appreciate it you could point me to it.
     
  15. Ross the fiddler

    Ross the fiddler Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Another question though, were you using normal sized AF point or small? Because you don't want to be using small for that! You could also try the 3X3 group as well.
     
  16. Holoholo55

    Holoholo55 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 13, 2014
    Honolulu, HI
    Walter
    Try turning on manual focus magnification to help zero in while focusing manually.
     
  17. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    1. Not unless there is a difference between the two.
    2. Yes.
    3. Yes, I'll 2nd the Focus Tune suggestion. Micro focusing is subject to focal length and focus distance, at infinity there should not be an issue. And as Phocal suggested, if your micro-focus tune your lens, use the same MMF-3 every time. I've only had to tune the lens on one camera body.
    4. Was that edge on the left or right side of the moon? If not that may be part of the problem. Was the focus target large enough to get both the moon and surrounding area in the focus target area? Use the larger focusing target.

    The great thing with the SWD lens, you can press the shutter, let the lens auto focus, and then you can manually fine tune that without having to make any other changes, and then just finish pressing the shutter button. You might also want to try a tripod or something to help you steady the lens. A little practice and you will get there.
     
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  18. SVQuant

    SVQuant Mu-43 Top Veteran

    850
    Sep 20, 2015
    SF Bay Area, California, USA
    Sameer
    I was using the normal focus area on the side edges. It has been a touch cloudy the last couple of nights and I wonder if that might have confused the focus. I will go out in a bit and try again once the moon is out.

    I didn't really spend too much time trying out manual focus, but I will try that as well. Since the lens does not have a MF clutch, I am guessing that it should be in S-AF+M for manual focus adjustments.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016
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  19. alex g

    alex g Mu-43 Top Veteran

    549
    Mar 30, 2016
    New York / Bath
    Actually, you don't have to be — a cool thing about the SWD lenses is that the MF ring is a true mechanical linkage, which is always "live" — you just grab it and tweak. :)

    I think the fact that it was a bit cloudy when you tried may be the biggest factor, though — PDAF focusing generally doesn't handle clouds or mist very well.
     
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  20. Holoholo55

    Holoholo55 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 13, 2014
    Honolulu, HI
    Walter
    Actually, the 50-200 SWD has full-time manual focus override. I would try MF mode. When you use S-AF+M, a half-press on the shutter causes it to AF on your focus points, then while you're holding the half press, you can turn the focus ring to adjust the focus. But, if you let up on the shutter and half-press it again, it'll again try to AF. That could throw you off. Might be easier, assuming you're using a tripod, to go with MF so your focus doesn't shift after you adjust it.

    Check your MF Assist settings. Press the Menu button, go to the gear A menu, and look for MF Assist. Under MF Assist, you can choose whether to turn on Magnify and Peaking. If you don't have Peaking turned on, try it and see if it helps. Peaking will activate when you turn the focus ring. You could also turn Magnify on so that when you twist the focus ring, it'll magnify the center of the view so you can judge focus better.

    Here's another idea. Use the touchscreen to press on the object and let it focus and take the shot. Wonder if that'll work better?
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016
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