Olympus 300mm f4 - What am I doing wrong?

AndyT

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If you are shooting handheld why the anti shock ? I thought it was only meant to kick in at shutter speeds of less than 1/320 (according to the manual), but I have just set mine to 1/1250, C-AF with a 4 sec anti shock and sure enough it kicks in ? This on my M1 II with 12-100.

Hopefully I have not been drinking too much wine tonight ...............:roflmao:
 

mrjoemorgan

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If you are shooting handheld why the anti shock ? I thought it was only meant to kick in at shutter speeds of less than 1/320 (according to the manual), but I have just set mine to 1/1250, C-AF with a 4 sec anti shock and sure enough it kicks in ? This on my M1 II with 12-100.

Hopefully I have not been drinking too much wine tonight ...............:roflmao:
I have it on anti shock in case the lighting gets the point that my shutter speed drops to 1/320 and I need all the help I can get.

Do you think the anti shock could interfere at faster shutter speeds and cause focus issues?
 

AndyT

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If it activates at faster shutter speeds especially on handheld shots then yes, if you perhaps rock forwards or backwards while it is doing it's thing.
Should not be an issue on a tripod shot.

Note I say "if it activates at faster shutter speeds" and my get out of jail free card regarding the wine ............

Caveat: I have never used anti shock as I shoot handheld.
 

mrjoemorgan

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So I did more tests today with just my 300mm without the MC-14 and turned off IBIS and Anti Shock and the results were much better: (however, see next post, when I turn IBIS back on - maybe its the MC-14?)

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mrjoemorgan

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This test shows three shots: SAF no IBIS, CAF no IBIS, SAF with IBIS.

300mm without MC-14. The IBIS shots look good! So maybe its the MC-14 that is the issue? Maybe ill do some tests tomorrow with and without the MC-14. With and without IBIS.

Question: The 300mm has built-in stabilization, but when you turn the IS off, the IBIS also turns off. So I assume that means they have to work together and you cant have IBIS ON and Lens IS off, or the other way around?

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barry13

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Thank you, I hope so too. And thanks again for all your help. Is there an exif viewer you use? I cant see subject distance using Mac preview. Also, does m43 not give focus point and focus type in exif? I remember when I used to use Canon in Lightroom and Aperture it would show me the focus point and focus type (SAF, CAF etc)
There is a free Windows app called PhotoME which will show the focus point in a small window.
It doesn't show the correct size of the box though.

I believe there are also Lightroom plugins.
 

mrjoemorgan

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I also almost always have it on.
So anti shock won’t be the problem then.

Looking at the images from today, looks like the camera and 300mm are okay and maybe it’s the MC14. I thought it was IBIS at first as the images were so much better. But then with the final test with the hawk, I now don’t think so.

More tests tomorrow.
 

Phocal

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So anti shock won’t be the problem then.

Looking at the images from today, looks like the camera and 300mm are okay and maybe it’s the MC14. I thought it was IBIS at first as the images were so much better. But then with the final test with the hawk, I now don’t think so.

More tests tomorrow.
good to see you are narrowing it down.
 

AlexMachine

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My settings for BIF, if good light. EM1.1 with 40-150 pro +1.4 teleconverter.
IBIS off, Shutter priority (1600 or faster), antishock off (works only with single shot I think), Contrast +1, ISO200 (or auto, limited to1600), metering mode center weighted, continuous autofocus (no tracking), Sequential Low, 9 autofocus boxes (for fast birds) or one large box for slower ones, exposure +0,3 - 0,7 (bright sky tends to under exposure bids and I don’t shoot raw that often).
With these settings I tend to get best results for BIF.
I have 2 front buttons set to myset1 and 2. One for BIF, 2nd for stationary birds.
 

mrjoemorgan

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@AlexMachine interesting you don’t use IBIS with BIF? Is that because you’re using fast shutter speeds don’t need the IBIS support?

You also mention em1.1 - the 1.2 replaces myset with custom modes 1-3 on the dial, right? I remember my em5 had myset but not seen them on the em1.2
 

mrjoemorgan

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good to see you are narrowing it down.
thank you. It seems that way. Gonna walk down to the beach and do more tests doing handheld BIF with lens combos and ibis off and on. Hopefully this will narrow it down further. Or just leave me scratching my head some more.
 

Mack

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I don't use the electronic shutter much since I use a Better Beamer flash on shoe and the electronic doesn't work with flash or is locked out. Mechanical here mostly in the 1/3,200-1/6,400 sec. range with HSS for the flash (Godox TT685-O with the Beamer, or the AD600 TTL Pro in HSS mode and aim it in general area with the remote trigger and Dot Sight EE-1 on top of the Godox trigger's shoe.

IBIS and Lens IS both on here too as I shoot handheld mostly since my gimbal is too confining in angles with BIF and the body or lens strikes arm, leg, mount, BH, etc.

For the OP, I'd invest in the Micheal Tapes slant ruler and his software and test using it with multiple shutter releases at each AF tuning point. Doing it in the wild always leaves me second-guessing as to what is going wrong in the AF world (Too many variables perhaps.), and then I'm back to double-checking it with the MT software and slant ruler thing.

And yes, changing lenses and the telconverters can lead to different AF settings (My MC-14 TC needs a -1 applied most of the time.). My Nikon D800E was at a -19 for a long while, and -20 is as far as it would go. Some days it needed more maybe due to heat or cold conditions. You just need to learn your gear to have some faith in it. This isn't high-dollar military spec'd gear made by Perkin-Elmer.
 

mrjoemorgan

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Thanks, @Mack - going to get his software and run the tests during the week. Appreciate field tests have too many variables, but does help test many theories (and also gives me an excuse to be shooting 24/7 until I figure it out haha!)
 

Mack

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Thanks, @Mack - going to get his software and run the tests during the week. Appreciate field tests have too many variables, but does help test many theories (and also gives me an excuse to be shooting 24/7 until I figure it out haha!)
No problem.

For amusement, this is the AF Tuning page on the back of my E-M1 Mark II with the 12-100 f/4 Pro zoom.

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It's a mess of AF tuning numbers, some as much as +5. In a perfect world, they would all be zeros. In my world, they are all over the place even to +5.

If I were to assume the perfect world of all zeros, and the BIF flew into the +5 tuning location in my world, it would be a missed and out-of-focus shot had I not corrected for it. Might be acceptable to some, or web quality work though, but it surely could be improved upon and Olympus allows us to do that.

However, it's a total PITA to do them all and takes a whole lot of time - maybe a full day with a zoom. Too bad Olympus doesn't sell some software and calibratioin targets/tools to make this AF tuning stuff easier. The guys at FoCal, who do the Nikon and Canon AF tuning software, were amused at the mess of spots Olympus allows us to fine tune. They'd like to be able to do it, but Olympus will not provide them with the SDK kit to do it. Big Olympus proprietary secret I guess.

Good luck!
 
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