Olympus 150-400 f4.5 IS Pro coming real soon now?

Pluttis

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Was looking at the Nikon 500mm f/5.6 PF lens and startled to find it weighs one pound less than the Olympus 150-400mm f/4.5 and is 3 inches shorter as well, likely due to the PF element in the 500mm.

Given it is about $3,300 and the 45MP Nikon Z7 II is $3,000 the combo is less than the Olympus lens alone. With cropping off the Nikon 46MP FF sensor it will be interesting to compare the two systems. My hope with the Z7 II (I'm transitioning back to Nikon, but will keep all the Olympus stuff.) is to avoid the blotchiness I see with the Olympus and maybe in their denoising or demosaicing algorithm that i did not see in my old D800E.
Yeah Nikon PF lenses is attractive due to their size and weight.

But comparing it to a 150-400 zoom lens that is faster its a bit like comparing apples to pears.

The Nikon PF 500mm f5.6 is also quite much smaller than Nikons 200-500 f5.6

Not sure you will get more keepers with Nikon Z7 II when shooting BIF...Z7 II can shoot up to 10fps( maybe 8fps in real world use?) but that is only with single point AF plus you get slightly lower AF performance with F-mount lenses.
 

SpecFoto

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Ah of course, because they compare the "crop" mode to their own crop sensors.

So this Nikon 500mm lens would be 750mm f/5.6 lens in the 17-18MP file?

While Olympus would be a zoom, 300-800mm (plus built-in 1.25x TC) & 20MP file?
Don't confuse in-camera crop like on my A7RIII or Nikon Z7, to a cropped sensor camera like a D500 or Sony A6400. Similar results but confusing. Using a FF lens on a in-camera crop does not affect the aperture but it does reduce the MP. Using a FF lens on a cropped sensor camera does not affect the aperture OR reduced the MP. So the Nikon 500mm PF on the Nikon Z7 with in-camera crop results with a 19MP file from a 750mm lens at f5.6. But on the D500, a native 20 MP body, the result is a 20 MP file from the 750mm at f5.6 lens. Now you know why so many shooters want a higher crop sensor Sony or Nikon APSC body, they get the best of both worlds. Give me a 35MP D500 and I would be so happy.

Yes your Olympus numbers are correct.
 
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RS86

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Don't confuse in-camera crop like on my A7RIII or Nikon Z7, to a cropped sensor camera like a D500 or Sony A6400. Similar results but confusing. Using a FF lens on a in-camera crop does not affect the aperture but it does reduce the MP. Using a FF lens on a cropped sensor camera does not affect the aperture OR reduced the MP. So the Nikon 500mm PF on the Nikon Z7 with in-camera crop results with a 19MP file from a 750mm lens. But on the D500, a native 20 MP body, the result is a 20 MP file from a 750mm f4 lens. Now you know why so many shooters want a higher crop sensor Sony or Nikon APSC body, they get the best of both worlds. Give me a 35MP D500 and I would be so happy.

Yes your Olympus numbers are correct.
Thanks for your patience in explaining. I'm sure some others (especially beginners) will find them helpful too.

I always thought with a crop sensor you'd need to multiply the aperture with 1.5x too if using a FF lens? A bit similar to TC's, am I confusing things?

This is not so? And not so with a crop from big MP FF sensor?
 

SpecFoto

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So do you think Sony A7R III/IV & 200-600mm can now match E-M1X/III on AF & performance? Burst speed etc.?
Think you added the above after I replied to the first part.

The CA-F on my recently sold 24MP A7III was a bit better than my EM1.3, I say 5 to 10%. In case you do portraits the Eye AF is much better at longer distances with the Sony bodies and on lenses longer than 85mm or more. Up close they are similar. Using the mechanical shutter it shoots at 10FPS. It had a buffer of about 45 FF shots (raw), which was OK, but it was the slowest at writing to the buffer. Always waiting for the files to write and you could not do other operations while it was writing. The A7RIII I bought is about the same re the CA-F with with a larger buffer, but again the slow writing speed. My only other complaint is that since this is a larger MP camera the AF points no longer cover the full width of the screen like the A7III or my EM1.3. My understand is that the newest A7RiV has a bigger buffer, but also much larger files, so the net effect is the same with the still too slow writing speed. But if your interested in this body, best to check with actually owners. The AF points cover more of the screen on the new model too, somewhere around 70%.

The EM1.3 has a larger buffer, I think it is around 70 shots, and it writes much faster to the SD card and while writing, the camera can continue to work, though some functions are limited until the buffer clears. The mechanical shutter is the same at 10FPS, but of course it has a very high 18FPS with e shutter with AF or 60 FPS with only the 1st shot in focus. Never tried the high speed eshutter so I can't say if the buffer slows.

The D500 also shoots at 10FPS mechanical shutter only. With 1 card being a XQD and the other UHS-II, it is simply amazing in the buffer and writing speed. Shooting full size raws you can get 200 shots without ANY slowdown, then wait about 2 seconds and get another 200 more shots (not that I would ever do this). Needless to say I have never experienced any slowdown in buffer or writing with my D500.
 
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SpecFoto

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Thanks for your patience in explaining. I'm sure some others (especially beginners) will find them helpful too.

I always thought with a crop sensor you'd need to multiply the aperture with 1.5x too if using a FF lens? A bit similar to TC's, am I confusing things?

This is not so? And not so with a crop from big MP FF sensor?
Glad my explanation was helpful.

Re crop camera and aperture. No the aperture does not change. I use FF Nikon lenses all the time on my D500 and EM1.3 and a f2 lens is always a f2 lens, no matter the sensor size.

* Edit What you are saying does happen for the focal length (FL) and the depth of field (DOF) for a lens. When I put my 24mm f2 Nikon FF lens on my D500 the FL increases by 1.5 times to 36mm and so does the DOF, but it is still an f2 lens. When the same Nikon lens is put on my EM1.3 the FL doubles to 48mm and so does the DOF, but it is still an f2 lens. (BTW, the DOF for M4/3 is now exactly the same as any other FF 48mm f2 lens.)

Your confusion is most likely caused by improper postings from M4/3 haters at other websites. They always say the aperture increases due to some obscure reason, but physics says otherwise. It's really funny how so many of these posters are APSC Canon shooters who for some magical reason think their APSC cameras Don't increase the aperture by a 1.6 crop, this only applies to M4/3 cameras :roflmao:

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
 
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Holoholo55

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  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
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Glad my explanation was helpful. No the aperture does not change. I use FF Nikon lenses all the time on my D500 and EM1.3 and a f2 lens is always a f2 lens, no matter the sensor size.

* Edit What you are saying does happen for the focal length (FL) and the depth of field (DOF) for a lens. When I put my 24mm f2 Nikon FF lens on my D500 the FL increases by 1.5 times to 36mm and so does the DOF, but it is still an f2 lens. When the same Nikon lens is put on my EM1.3 the FL doubles to 48mm and so does the DOF, but it is still an f2 lens. (BTW, the DOF for M4/3 is now exactly the same as any other FF 48mm f2 lens.)

Your confusion is most likely caused by improper postings from M4/3 haters at other websites. They always say the aperture increases due to some obscure reason, but physics says otherwise. It's really funny how so many of these posters are APSC Canon shooters who for some magical reason don't think their APSC cameras Don't increase the aperture by a 1.6 crop, this only applies to M4/3 cameras :roflmao:
...
I love that last sentence. So true. You never hear about lenses on APS-C cameras magically changing "aperture" because of their cropped sensor. :rofl:
 
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ColoPhotoGirl

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I wonder how long the hood makes it.
My interest is piqued after seeing a video where the lens, as seen from the front, looked about three feet long.

I know that windy conditions can cause a hood to act like a sail and make it harder to hold the lens. If you've ever shot from a plane with an open cockpit (like a biplane) it's easier if you remove the lens hood.

Many reviewers have commented on how light the lens feels, which is great unless the wind is an issue. Light weight at the front with a large hood could make it harder than a little more weight and a small hood.

This is definitely a lens I'd like to hold. Of course, I may not want to give it back!
There are smaller/light weight foldable hoods that you can buy.
 
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Anybody that thinks the hood might be a failure, I doubt they have looked at the design or material it is made from. It should take a decent knocking & stand up to a hard life.
If they're charging $12K for the lens, I'm guessing the hood is durable too.

Olympus hoods have gotten a lot better. My 12-40 and 40-150 hoods fell apart years ago, their newer hoods have gotten a lot more durable.
 

Ross the fiddler

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If they're charging $12K for the lens, I'm guessing the hood is durable too.

Olympus hoods have gotten a lot better. My 12-40 and 40-150 hoods fell apart years ago, their newer hoods have gotten a lot more durable.
The annoying problem with the 12-40 was that the release button could easily be pressed & the hood would come off in the bag, so I cut that side off flush (with it always left facing forward) & it is fine since. The 40-150 came apart once. First attempt at gluing didn't hold on the plastic, but second attempt did & has been fine since, however with the price difference to this top 'Pro' lens then I'm sure they would have it right this time.
 
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The annoying problem with the 12-40 was that the release button could easily be pressed & the hood would come off in the bag, so I cut that side off flush (with it always left facing forward) & it is fine since. The 40-150 came apart once. First attempt at gluing didn't hold on the plastic, but second attempt did & has been fine since, however with the price difference to this top 'Pro' lens then I'm sure they would have it right this time.
The problem with both of mine was the adhesive came apart, the 40-150mm came apart completely and I couldn't get it back together, Olympus replaced that one (it took ages). My 12-40mm I could put it back together but thought if they're going to replace it, I want a new one.

It came back with a dab of superglue on it. I could've saved myself $10 in postage and done that myself.

Every lens I've owned since has been solid, the f1.2 primes has the same size hood as the 12-40mm but are much better designed. Likewise no issues with my 300mm at all, I'd say they recognised a design problem and fixed them.

I have a theory that the adhesive that Olympus used in the earlier hoods wasn't up to Brisbane's humidity (combined with my usual holidays of visiting overseas tropical rainforests). I can't prove that though, since I don't live anywhere else.
 

Ross the fiddler

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The problem with both of mine was the adhesive came apart, the 40-150mm came apart completely and I couldn't get it back together, Olympus replaced that one (it took ages). My 12-40mm I could put it back together but thought if they're going to replace it, I want a new one.

It came back with a dab of superglue on it. I could've saved myself $10 in postage and done that myself.

Every lens I've owned since has been solid, the f1.2 primes has the same size hood as the 12-40mm but are much better designed. Likewise no issues with my 300mm at all, I'd say they recognised a design problem and fixed them.

I have a theory that the adhesive that Olympus used in the earlier hoods wasn't up to Brisbane's humidity (combined with my usual holidays of visiting overseas tropical rainforests). I can't prove that though, since I don't live anywhere else.
I noticed the aluminium ring on the 40-150 starting to move & was able to reglue it then. The plastic needed superglue on it but needed to be gel. I added a contact adhesive on top of that (when hard) to glue the aluminium ring & that has stayed solid. The mechanical issue was the ring was taking the impact when sliding out. That was not good design without solid fixing of the ring (screws etc). I got my 12-40 later so it might have been glued better, but then I don't take that hood off anyhow.
 
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Don't confuse in-camera crop like on my A7RIII or Nikon Z7, to a cropped sensor camera like a D500 or Sony A6400. Similar results but confusing. Using a FF lens on a in-camera crop does not affect the aperture but it does reduce the MP. Using a FF lens on a cropped sensor camera does not affect the aperture OR reduced the MP. So the Nikon 500mm PF on the Nikon Z7 with in-camera crop results with a 19MP file from a 750mm lens. But on the D500, a native 20 MP body, the result is a 20 MP file from a 750mm f4 lens. Now you know why so many shooters want a higher crop sensor Sony or Nikon APSC body, they get the best of both worlds. Give me a 35MP D500 and I would be so happy.

Yes your Olympus numbers are correct.
How is it you get a 750 mm f/4 lens out of a 500 mm f/5.6 lens? I get the 750 part, but I can't wait till you tell them over at DPR that putting a full frame lens on a crop sensor body actually INCREASES the maximum aperture...

Just having fun, of course, as I assume that's a typo?
 

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Just having fun, of course, as I assume that's a typo?
Yes, a typo, fixed. Thanks. I will blame it on 7 posts in the same thread in one day, way above my 8 year average of only 7.5 posts a month....Must be still amped up from the 8 hour drive I had to get to the Trona Pinnacles and back for photo shoot yesterday.
 
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Yes, a typo, fixed. Thanks. I will blame it on 7 posts in the same thread in one day, way above my 8 year average of only 7.5 posts a month....Must be still amped up from the 8 hour drive I had to get to the Trona Pinnacles and back for photo shoot yesterday.

BTW, I'll be selling my 500 pf, and my 300 pf, plus my Oly 100-400 and 300 f/4 to get this new lens, which I already pre-ordered. Nothing like downsizing to the One Lens to Rule Them All....
 

SpecFoto

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BTW, I'll be selling my 500 pf, and my 300 pf, plus my Oly 100-400 and 300 f/4 to get this new lens, which I already pre-ordered. Nothing like downsizing to the One Lens to Rule Them All....
Wow that is a lot of faith in this new lens. Really hope it works out for you, it seems to be a terrific design and build.
Have you listed the Oly 100-400 yet, if not PM me on it.
 
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Wow that is a lot of faith in this new lens. Really hope it works out for you, it seems to be a terrific design and build.
Have you listed the Oly 100-400 yet, if not PM me on it.
No, I won't be selling anything till I have the lens in hand and a chance to check it out. I'll let you know when that happens.
 

Dave Black

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No, I won't be selling anything till I have the lens in hand and a chance to check it out. I'll let you know when that happens.
I own the 100-400/5.0-6.3, the 300/4.0 and now have the 150-400/4.5 on pre-order. I am not selling anything. I am now using the 100-400/5.0-6.3 to be paired with the 12-100/4.0 plus couple of fast primes for my general walk about in nature. I can hike all day with this kit. I expect the 150-400/4.5 to be to large for this type of general hiking out in nature kit. I will most likely try to use a larger backpack and pair it with the 12-40/2.8 and the 40-250/2.8, plus couple of fast primes. It will heavy enough that I will not use it on long general photo hikes in nature. Love the ability to mix and match for whatever situation I expect to encounter.
 

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