OLY OMs on safari (long!)

MexicoMik

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Mar 19, 2012
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195
I went back/forth on many pics between AF and MF for exactly that reason, trying to ensure sharp focus but I still had a few that were slightly soft. And, as I said, I have a lot of animal pics where they are out in the open and some of the pics are slightly soft when there was nothing else for the focus to accidentally lock.

I just went through a lot of the 300mm pics on the laptop and I can't come up with any consistent composition, setting or mode that is common to the soft pics. One thing I wonder about: I THINK I recall reading a while back that in some cases stabilization can CAUSE softness. As I recall, and I don't remember where I read it, it had something to do with the fact that if shutter speeds were sufficiently high there is some sort of interaction that can cause blurriness. But I don't remember any details and I might be totally mis-remembering/misunderstanding what I THINK I remember. ;) I had stabilization on at all times.
 

Joe Smith

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Mar 6, 2016
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I've read somewhere(tm) that continuous autofocus on steady objects can cause softness, because the focus system will continuously search back and forth for the (inexistent) movement. Another common source of misfocus is half-pressing the shutter and then waiting a moment before actually taking the shot. It is very likely that you move a centimeter or two in this short moment.
 

GRID

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Jun 22, 2011
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Iteresting read, I went to Tanzania in 2012, had a Pana GH1 (no IBIS) with the adapted Canon 300mm F2.8 FD (2.8kg) and mostly (99%) used it hand held, and a GF2 with the pana 20mm F1.7 and Samyang 7,5mm
I went in end of April, so the rainseson was just over, so it wasnt as dusty, and not that many tourists there either, and the landscape was more green than i thought it would be.

Some of my Images

I sometimes thought that more than 300mm (600mm) would be nice, look at the rhinos pic :p
But most of the time i thought it was enough and a bigger lens would have been clumsy in the car.
I was just there for 7 days, and visited Tarangire 1 day, Lake manyara 1 day, Serengeti 3 days, and Ngorogoro crater 1day.

Thx for the post, you just made me wanting to go back there again ;)
 

MexicoMik

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
195
"Another common source of misfocus is half-pressing the shutter and then waiting a moment before actually taking the shot. It is very likely that you move a centimeter or two in this short moment."

You know, that could easily be the answer because I know I did that on plenty of shots. I remember when I first got the M5 that I got out-of-focus shots on my wife riding her motorcycle toward me that didn't happen with my Nikon (D)SLR. I found that if I just pressed the M5 shutter without any half press/prefocus, the pics were sharp. But I didn't think about that on the Safari. Maybe I worked too hard in some cases trying to "ensure" sharpness! :)

I don't want to make it sound like it was a real problem; most of the long FL pics are fine but I would like to understand why some were soft with the same settings as some that are sharp. Another possibility with the 75-300, since it's a consumer lens, NOT a pro-type lens like the 300, is that I took many shots at the longest setting and the widest aperture which is not a recipe for the best possible image. But then again, some are soft, some are not... ;)
 

mcasan

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Feb 26, 2014
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Last night at a local club meeting we had a photo contest on two categories: wildlife, nature as art. My shot "Mother and Child" won first place. It was shot in November in Mara Triangle in Kenya with E-M1 and 40-140 Pro lens. The lens was at 40mm, f8. So can you take m43 on safari.....yes. And now with the new 300 Pro and PL 100-400 lenses available, you can take all the native high quality glass you need.

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Keiron

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Jan 19, 2016
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Amsterdam
The 40-150 is great. The Panasonic 100-300...not so much. It is soft are it heads to 300mm.

I have just bought the panasonic 100 to 300 and it is a beast of a lens. It feels amazing in the hand and oozes seriousness but it is not perfect. I have a G7 and a GX7 and even though my G7 was meant to be my video camera the bigger body and bigger grip make a world of difference with the 100 to 300mm. I purchased the tripod collar from the German Wizard which balances the camera very well and if the scene allows it using electronic shutter helps. When I got the lens I did the usually DXO Mark check and the sharpness map was quite interesting. Obvious DXO is not perfect and while it will rarely be green given the low pixel count of M43 cameras I use it to give me an idea where to use the lens. Here is the chart:

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With all of the above I have been quite impressed with the results. I have been trialling it out with birds which has been quite a learning curve and I am currently off to South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe game parks to hopefully take some wildlife pictures. I started with mixed feelings about the Panasonic but I took the plunge and took the time to try get it to work for me and it does reward. I have not tried to the Oly 300m (zoom and prime) but I generally find that price says a lot about M43 gear so the zoom will be similar to my Panasonic while for 3 times the price I will get better quality with the prime.

Here are some of my practice shots with the Panasonic G7 and 100-300mm (all on a tripod):

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1/200 sec. f/5.6 300 mm
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1/100 sec. f/5.3 246 mm

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1/800 sec. f/5.6 300 mm

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1/800 sec. f/5.6 300 mm
 

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mcasan

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The Panny 100-300 was the best native m43 lens that can get you to 300mm. DXO rated it previously as the only recommended lens for wildlife. But now we start to have other choices, but at substantially higher costs. Congrats on going to Africa! The big thing is to enjoy the experience!!!!!
 

mcasan

Mu-43 All-Pro
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Feb 26, 2014
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BTW, the latest issue of Outdoor Photographer is about wildlife photography and has good articles about shooting in Africa.
 

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