Oly 100-400 IS help

Dogbert62

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All,

just got the lens and I am mystified with the IS setup since I haven’t used IS lenses on Olympus bodies... I have also watched Gordon Laing and Rob Knights videos showing different screen “looks” but not the in camera setup

I have a M5.3 with FW 1.2 which should handle the O100-400mm
In camera, I have set:
IS to S-IS auto
IS Priority
Halfway On
Lens IS priority On

If I turn the IS switch on the lens to OFF and half press the shutter, I see reasonable IS which I assume is the in body. If I turn the switch ON, and half press the shutter, it doesn’t look any better than before l half press. If I go to IS-off, I don’t see a difference between the lens switch on or off...

am I missing a setting??

Regards
Dogbert62
 

Robstar1963

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You should have both IS in body and OIS on the lens switched on together
Although the lens doesn’t provide full scale ‘Sync IS‘ it does provide combined IS
The body provides 3 axis stabilisation and the Lens provides a further 2 axis giving combined 5 axis (I think I’ve got that about right)
It is not as good as Sync IS but they are designed to work together and in conjunction
I had this lens for a very short while before selling it unused other than for brief testing due to branching out into FF and needing to compromise on my M43 gear (and already having a 300mm f4.0)
During the brief testing I did note that when the shutter was half pressed there was a short delay before the IS completely kicked in as it were and the EVF image stabilised - it seemed as though there was a few moments where perhaps the IS in body engaged followed by the OIS kicking in and the two communicating with each other and combining (just my thoughts about what was going on) There was a noticeable jump where the image in the EVF would fully settle and stabilise
The operation of the IS with this lens and the slight delay I experienced seemed to be different to the experience with the 300mm f4.0
Don't know if this helps at all but might be worth observing how the combined IS works in case you are missing the bit where it fully kicks in ?
 

Dogbert62

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Thanks for the reply...

with in body IS on auto... Len IS priority set to on

it never seems to engage the IS when the lens IS switch is in the ON position... once I turn it OFF, I get stabilization.. I assume it is just the body stabilization at this point... I tested your thought that the lag was the issue... sorry to report that it never stabilized no matter how long I held the shutter in half press.

it *seems* as if only the in-body stabilization is kicking in... since it is a new lens, it must be operator error. But for the life of me, I can’t figure out what I am missing

regards
Dogbert62
 

Keeth101

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Olympus made a special firmware update for the EM1 cameras to ensure that stabilization for this lens was optimum, don't know if it was also for the M5. If they did, you will need to update your camera.

Just a thought.
 

Robstar1963

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Olympus made a special firmware update for the EM1 cameras to ensure that stabilization for this lens was optimum, don't know if it was also for the M5. If they did, you will need to update your camera.

Just a thought.
Agree ref others who may be reading this but the OP has already stated that he has v1.2 which is the latest for EM5/3 and includes the update for the 100-400 :thumbup:
 

RAH

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Disregarding the 100-400 lens, just generally speaking you want to use IS-1, NOT IS-Auto.

If you look in the manual, under IS-Auto, it says: "Image stabilization applies to motion on all axes. If panning motion is detected, the camera will automatically suspend image stabilization on that axis."

IS-1 simply says: "Image stabilization applies to motion on all axes."

So, for general photography, you want IS-1, IMHO. I didn't make this up; I have read similar advice in a lot of other places. For some strange reason, Olympus didn't make IS-1 the default (or swap how they work would be better, I think!).
 

Dogbert62

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Well... it doesn’t sound like I am missing anything obvious... So, I guess it is time to hit up Olympus... bummer that it is a new lens..
Yeah... the FW 1.2 is the newest for the M 5.3 which has the updates for the O 100-400mm.
RAH... Didn’t know that about the IS-auto vs IS-1.. thanks... that is one reason I read this forum since I often learn new things..

regards
Dogbert62
 

RichardC

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Well... it doesn’t sound like I am missing anything obvious... So, I guess it is time to hit up Olympus... bummer that it is a new lens..
Yeah... the FW 1.2 is the newest for the M 5.3 which has the updates for the O 100-400mm.
RAH... Didn’t know that about the IS-auto vs IS-1.. thanks... that is one reason I read this forum since I often learn new things..

regards
Dogbert62
Very long shot:

Clean the electrical contacts on the back of the lens with a dry lens tissue or cloth.
 

Dogbert62

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I dusted off my M10.2 to see if I got a different answer.. Nope...
I also tried PakkyT’s idea on both the M10.2 and M5.3.. No joy as well...
Granted the M10.2 doesn’t have FW specifically for the 100-400mm but it should handle Len IS...

Also cleaned the contacts...

Again, thanks for the suggestions..
Regards
Dogbert62
 
Last edited:

Ross the fiddler

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You should have both IS in body and OIS on the lens switched on together
Although the lens doesn’t provide full scale ‘Sync IS‘ it does provide combined IS
The body provides 3 axis stabilisation and the Lens provides a further 2 axis giving combined 5 axis (I think I’ve got that about right)
It is not as good as Sync IS but they are designed to work together and in conjunction
I had this lens for a very short while before selling it unused other than for brief testing due to branching out into FF and needing to compromise on my M43 gear (and already having a 300mm f4.0)
During the brief testing I did note that when the shutter was half pressed there was a short delay before the IS completely kicked in as it were and the EVF image stabilised - it seemed as though there was a few moments where perhaps the IS in body engaged followed by the OIS kicking in and the two communicating with each other and combining (just my thoughts about what was going on) There was a noticeable jump where the image in the EVF would fully settle and stabilise
The operation of the IS with this lens and the slight delay I experienced seemed to be different to the experience with the 300mm f4.0
Don't know if this helps at all but might be worth observing how the combined IS works in case you are missing the bit where it fully kicks in ?
That’s not quite correct. The body will only provide roll correction when both OIS & IS are on, otherwise there would be conflict, so long as the body is at the latest FW. It also overrides Lens Priority which was designed for when using Panasonic lenses.

EDIT: Here is a copy & paste from the FW update.


Image stabilization performance when using "M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS" has been improved.
  • * Roll compensation is available with the image stabilization function of the body, along with the pitch and yaw image stabilization function of the lens.
  • * The "M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 100-400mm F5.0-6.3 IS" is not compatible with 5-axis Sync IS.
 
Last edited:

Ross the fiddler

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Disregarding the 100-400 lens, just generally speaking you want to use IS-1, NOT IS-Auto.

If you look in the manual, under IS-Auto, it says: "Image stabilization applies to motion on all axes. If panning motion is detected, the camera will automatically suspend image stabilization on that axis."

IS-1 simply says: "Image stabilization applies to motion on all axes."

So, for general photography, you want IS-1, IMHO. I didn't make this up; I have read similar advice in a lot of other places. For some strange reason, Olympus didn't make IS-1 the default (or swap how they work would be better, I think!).
IS-Auto is ideal for most situations. It needs to automatically disable part if panning etc, or else it will try to correct all the time, which is what IS-1 will do. Try it!
 

RAH

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it *seems* as if only the in-body stabilization is kicking in... since it is a new lens, it must be operator error. But for the life of me, I can’t figure out what I am missing
You haven't specified what focal length you are using when you are looking thru the viewfinder and doing your half-presses to see what is happening with various IS settings.

I think it has been pretty much agreed on this forum that at the lower focal lengths (100 to 200or 300?) the IBIS is most effective and the lens IS may be just ignored or not very active. WHen you zoom out to 400, the lens IS becomes more active and the IBIS becomes less active.

Sooo, I'm wondering if this is what you are seeing. If you were just trying it out at 100mm, then you might indeed be seeing a very INACTIVE lens IS, but seeing very active IBIS (when you have it on).

Just a thought. I am kind of thinking maybe your lens is OK. Hope!
 

Dogbert62

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I tested at various FLs but generally push to 400mm since it is much easier to see the effects, or lack there of, of the IS

Dogbert62
 

Ross the fiddler

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For what ever it is worth, when I half press the shutter when using my 12-100 @100mm, it is pretty obvious when the IS kicks in.
It's pretty obvious because it is using the 5-axis of the camera synced with the OIS of the body with up to 7.5 stops of IS.
The best with the 100-400 lens is 3 stops at 400mm, which is still pretty good.
 

Dogbert62

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Good news.. it is working now....

I was in the process of creating short videos of all combinations of Body IS ON/Off and Lens IS On/Off on a couple bodies to send to Olympus support... and.... it started working... my guess is the multiple toggles of the lens switch.... or the few extra remounts of the lens... or the or the extra power of a fresh battery.. kicked it into submission... I have tested it a half dozen times throughout the day and it hasn’t gone south once.. hopefully it stays working..

As I mentioned, this is my first Lens with IS so I wasn’t totally sure how it played, or if there was a software switch buried in the setup menus that turned it on. Now that I know how it plays and how it functions, I can definitively say the lens IS was not working when I received it

thanks again for the suggestions...

Regards
Dogbert62
 

Ross the fiddler

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Good news.. it is working now....

I was in the process of creating short videos of all combinations of Body IS ON/Off and Lens IS On/Off on a couple bodies to send to Olympus support... and.... it started working... my guess is the multiple toggles of the lens switch.... or the few extra remounts of the lens... or the or the extra power of a fresh battery.. kicked it into submission... I have tested it a half dozen times throughout the day and it hasn’t gone south once.. hopefully it stays working..

As I mentioned, this is my first Lens with IS so I wasn’t totally sure how it played, or if there was a software switch buried in the setup menus that turned it on. Now that I know how it plays and how it functions, I can definitively say the lens IS was not working when I received it

thanks again for the suggestions...

Regards
Dogbert62
I thought I'd play with combinations with mine & I'm satisfied all is well.
 

RichardC

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Good news.. it is working now....

I was in the process of creating short videos of all combinations of Body IS ON/Off and Lens IS On/Off on a couple bodies to send to Olympus support... and.... it started working... my guess is the multiple toggles of the lens switch.... or the few extra remounts of the lens... or the or the extra power of a fresh battery.. kicked it into submission... I have tested it a half dozen times throughout the day and it hasn’t gone south once.. hopefully it stays working..

As I mentioned, this is my first Lens with IS so I wasn’t totally sure how it played, or if there was a software switch buried in the setup menus that turned it on. Now that I know how it plays and how it functions, I can definitively say the lens IS was not working when I received it

thanks again for the suggestions...

Regards
Dogbert62
The IS refused to work properly with any lens on my new EM1 Mk2 when I went for the free lens deal.

I drove 100 miles to SRS to pick up a replacement but on testing in the shop it worked flawlessly. The only thing I'd done was take the lens off a few times. I'm convinced it must have been dirt on a pin - I really don't think it could be anything else.
 
Last edited:

blackfox wildlife

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tried both ways with the omd1-mkii no visible difference at all either way works fine ,sharpest shots I have obtained in 20 + years of wildlife pics
 

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