Official Panasonic G9 Image thread.

Mike G

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Yep I’ve used the horizon screen setting and it doesn’t seem to make a lot of difference, at least not for me. :blush:
I would prefer a simple horizon line instead of the overblown version available, it distracts me from using the screen as opposed to a plain screen.
 

Brownie

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Yep I’ve used the horizon screen setting and it doesn’t seem to make a lot of difference, at least not for me. :blush:
I would prefer a simple horizon line instead of the overblown version available, it distracts me from using the screen as opposed to a plain screen.

I admit it takes getting used to. I like to see all of the feedback in the viewfinder, so that's how my screen is set. I also have the histogram set.

But I don't understand how it doesn't work for you. When the camera is level, the yellow line turns green. Seems fairly straightforward.
 

Mike G

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Can’t get used to the clutter, I find I ‘m always looking at
 

Mike G

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LOL. I can't believe I was actually able to help someone with a technical question on the G9. This camera is so way beyond me, I'll probably never use half of the features! :confused-53:
Tim it is fun to find another feature though, remembering them is another question!
 

AlterKnabe

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G9 with Panasonic 30mm Macro.
Dual-IS was pretty helpful in this situation, since I needed to hold the camera high up with one hand in a very uncomfortable position.

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Brian G

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"Superres" image, 20 frames hand held in low light at ISO 1600, stacked & averaged for a single RAW that is over 10,000 pixels on the long dimension. Typically this type of shot would require a tripod, but this proves to be a viable alternative, especially for travel.
G9 with 35-100/2.8 II

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Dawn Breaks by Brian Gammon, on Flickr
 

Harvey Melvin Richards

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"Superres" image, 20 frames hand held in low light at ISO 1600, stacked & averaged for a single RAW that is over 10,000 pixels on the long dimension. Typically this type of shot would require a tripod, but this proves to be a viable alternative, especially for travel.
G9 with 35-100/2.8 II

View attachment 766751 Dawn Breaks by Brian Gammon, on Flickr
Very nice. How do you stack the photos ?
 

Brownie

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My daughter watched the series on Netflix (I think). She really enjoyed it.
 

Andrewmap

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My daughter watched the series on Netflix (I think). She really enjoyed it.
I've ordered the DVD off Amazon and now we are waiting for it to arrive! I've just re-read the book (on Kindle) and both of their voices were in my head as I read it! David Tennant: still the best Doctor from the new incarnation of the series.
 

Brian G

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Very nice. How do you stack the photos ?

I do basic RAW development in LR CC, SYNC so the settings are applied to all the frames, then with all the images selected, right click to get to EDIT IN and OPEN AS LAYERS IN PS.

At this point you should go down the layer stack, turning off visibility one layer at a time. You will see some movement (lack of perfect alignment) but moderate changes are OK. If you note any layers that seem to be dramatically shifted, delete those from the stack.

Since the frames were shot hand held, you have to AUTO ALIGN in PS, but first you have to resize the images in the stack to 200% (assuming that you wish to take advantage of the resolution increase opportunity, of course). Once the images are upsampled, this is the point when you would auto align.

The final steps are to once again select all layers, and convert to smart objects. This is typically the step that takes the most computing time. Once done, you will have one layer, and it will be a Smart Object. Lastly, go to Layers / Smart Object / Stack Mode and select MEDIAN.

Done.

In my view, the option to shoot and process this way is a huge opportunity for any camera, but perhaps doubly so for m43, as it can dramatically improve both the ability to print large, and dramatically reduce noise without being reliant upon noise reduction software, which is never perfect.

By the way, I should add that the image that I posted has had NO sharpening, with the exception of a) LR's default intake sharpening of 25; and b) LR's export sharpening for screen display, set to Low.

Here is a link to my Flickr album containing a selection of such Superresolution images. In some cases there is a comparison posted as well showing a single frame with identical processing settings. The album includes tests with both Panasonic m43 cameras and the Sony A7RIII. The process can enhance images from both of these, in spite of the fact that the Sony starts out with a large resolution advantage.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/blueshound/rX8h56

Some of the files are available for download, and I would encourage anyone who is interested to download them and view on your own system, particularly if you have a good monitor.

Brian
 
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saladin

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I started this thread so probably time i made another contribution, lol.


Finally, i was able to steal a couple of hours with the G9 , 12-60PL and 8-18PL today. All handheld, i just kept on the move and stopped when i saw something i liked. Interesting light with constant cloud movement. But i wish i'd taken a 150mm, there were some shots i really wanted to reach across the paddocks to get and was unable. 60mm just wasnt long enough.


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saladin

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The high key shot isn't, I converted it from colour.

The others are shot in LmonoD and some minor tweeks/cropping done in dxo.

I find that LmonoD , paired with a PL lens, sometimes floors me with its beauty. I'd keep a panny camera purely for this reason, even if I had no other reason.
 

saladin

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saladin

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It's funny how you can be "out of form" with a camera, then you start using it again for a couple of days running and start seeing in a better way with it. I wasn't convinced I'd done very well this morning at capturing what I could see,
but looking back on them now I'm happier.


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