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OFF Camera Flash experiment OMD

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Chrisnmn, Jul 13, 2012.

  1. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    So the other day i was wondering how did my OMD performed in a more "controlled" environment aka studio-flash-etc. I just did a really simple setup not metering much, just to see how it worked.

    So i grabbed my Nikon SB28DX (1997-99), my ebay cheap as triggers "Cactus V2s" which i use all the time with my 5DMKII, and just plugged the controller on top of the camera, set the camera in manual mode and started shooting. and it just worked, i thought i needed some special triggers for this camera, but this just work and thats great, so grabbed my lady who was next to me, and used her as the subject. :biggrin:

    But half way through, the camera was getting totally dark images like not capturing anything at all eventhough the flash fired and didnt touched any controls on the camera.

    so the setup was

    OMD - P20mm
    Nikon SD28DX (flash bounced to a white wall, camera left)
    Cactus V2s triggers
    White wall



    this are straight of camera Raw images. check it out this crops at 100%



    Pretty sharp isnt it?. thats the magic behind the P20mm. this images and crops are RAW no Post processing at this point.

    But at the same time in between shots i got this stuff...


    pitch black, and if you check on the exif of this jpeg you will see its exactly the same as the ones above, and the flash fired. any clues why this happened? :frown::eek: 

    also got this


    which this means that the shutter speed on the camera was faster than the flash, BUT again this has the exact same shutter speed as the good shots above... weird! :confused: 

    so if anyone has some clues on this would be appreciated, and now this is the final image i picked, and did some Photoshop magic.


    Overall im really happy with the results im getting from this camera, and I really want to push it a lot more and maybe start doing some paid work with it.
    • Like Like x 2
  2. Dave in Wales

    Dave in Wales Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nov 5, 2011
    West Wales
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    thanks Dave. im really happy with the results of this camera, but im still figuring out why the the camera does those blackframes in between shots.
  4. quatchi

    quatchi Mu-43 Veteran

    May 17, 2012
    Munich, Germany
    What shutter speed did you set? Was it close to 1/250?
  5. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Yup all of them shot at 1/250.
  6. Dave in Wales

    Dave in Wales Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nov 5, 2011
    West Wales
    Shutter speed to fast maybe, incorrect sync speed, but that's been mentioned.

    Just my 2p's worth.
  7. sam_m

    sam_m Mu-43 Regular

    Jul 26, 2010
    Ditto what dave says, I shoot with cactus v5s and usually use a shutter speed of 1/160, even at 1/200 can sometimes cause a slight shutter curtain. Can almost guarantee the shutter is a bit too fast from those images.

    Great shots by the way, and fantastically sharp!!!
  8. bcaslis

    bcaslis Mu-43 Veteran

    Jul 3, 2011
    Wilsonville, OR, USA
    Brian Caslis
    Looking like a flash sync problem. I know the Olympus flashes can sync at 1/250, but I think other flashes need a slower sync speed.
  9. marcusmichaels

    marcusmichaels Mu-43 Regular

    Jul 10, 2012
    Marcus Michaels
    Nice and sharp. It might be worth replacing the batteries in your Cactus V2s. I use a wireless Cactus set-up too and at 1/250 and it works fine so I'm thinking it might be lag between the units?
  10. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Thanks for all the comments guys, yes it might be a battery problem on the triggers because i know that the camera can sync up to 1/250, maybe. I should stick to 1/160 or 1/200 like i do in my canon gear.
  11. m43shooter

    m43shooter Mu-43 Rookie

    Jul 15, 2012
    I would suggest keeping the shutter speed at 1/125 and set aperture to your needs and adjust flash power from there on.

    The (partial) black images indicate to high sync shutter speeds. You can only use higher shutter speeds if your camera and flash can both do FP (high speed sync) and are connected via hot shoe.

    For strobist off camera work stick to 1/125 and you won't have any issues.
    • Like Like x 1
  12. 0dBm

    0dBm Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 30, 2011
    Western United States
    Were the photos taken back-to-back? Were the batteries in the SB28DX fresh?
  13. Chrisnmn

    Chrisnmn Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 26, 2012
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Yes all batteries were fresh except the one in the receiver on my cactus v2s triggers. But now i changed it and it syncs flawlessly!! It was just the batteries not the camera or the triggers
  14. With_Eyes_Unclouded

    With_Eyes_Unclouded Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 17, 2012
    Chris the pics that actually managed to expose were great! :biggrin:

    As others said, it's definitely shutter sync. I use 1/60 to 1/160 (rarely going to 1/200) with the YN-560ii in RC mode. The difference between, say, 1/160 and 1/200 you are not going to see at all, except if you are shooting in quite strong ambient light. The slower speed is going to catch a bit more of the scene's natural (non flash) light; IMO only relevant if you are using said light in a very creative way (say, combining direct sunlight + a reflector + your flash slightly off-subject).

    I have happened on the flash non firing; after a few such mishaps, I always remove the batteries when the flash is not in use.
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