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not so happy now ?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by oldbaldy, Nov 2, 2018.

  1. oldbaldy

    oldbaldy Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 21, 2014
    northumberland UK
    What am I doing wrongly ?
    Most pics today just aren't right and here are 2 of them
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    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    I just dont know what it is . I've got feather definition etc Could be motion blur but cant really see any - just ahh !
  2. TNcasual

    TNcasual Mu-43 Legend Subscribing Member

    Dec 2, 2014
    Knoxville, TN
    Are these cropped?
  3. Christop82

    Christop82 Mu-43 All-Pro Subscribing Member

    Sep 10, 2016
    Sort of looks like a film effect art filter of some sort..
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Dinobe

    Dinobe Mu-43 Regular Subscribing Member

    Nov 23, 2017
    Lochristi, Belgium
    Central composition?
  5. kb1142

    kb1142 Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    Jan 11, 2016
    Blue Ridge Mountains, North Carolina
    Kevin Balling
    Looks like you shot handheld? Looks like camera shake. Try a tripod and/or higher shutter speed, especially at 400mm.
    • Agree Agree x 3
  6. dirtdevil

    dirtdevil Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Apr 9, 2017
    That lens is unfortunately not the sharpest. But one thing you can fix right away, is lower the ISO to the minimum (200?) and just slow down the exposure a bit, you are at 1/1250 second anyways, you can go down to 1/250 and not fear any shake. I can shoot with a very old and heavy unstabilized 400mm with no shake at 1/100 just with the help of IBIS.

    Speaking of IBIS, I see you have an Olympus camera coupled with the PL lens...would there be some sort of interference between the 2 to "fight" for stabilization?
  7. oldbaldy

    oldbaldy Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 21, 2014
    northumberland UK
    cropped but not as much as with my nikon .
    jpeg from raw
    always central composition
    handheld but 1/1250 and there is feather definition which I wouldn't expect with shake.
    Am i expecting too much as here is another that was much closer
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    this is what i want
  8. TNcasual

    TNcasual Mu-43 Legend Subscribing Member

    Dec 2, 2014
    Knoxville, TN
    Do you have the uncropped originals to compare?

    To me it looks like a combination of SS, ISO, lower light and shake. The first image appears to have missed focus as well.
  9. Mack

    Mack Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jan 14, 2018
    You might want to try and figure out how much DOF you have at 400mm and your distance to see just what you have that will be sharp. This site has the E1M1 and you can see how shallow the DOF will be at whatever distance you were at: Depth of Field (DoF) calculator | PhotoPills

    Second, might try and manually focus with that lens and use Focus Peaking instead. I was playing with a Nikon 300mm f/4 PF lens on hummingbirds and with Focus Peaking, the lens focus ring has minimal rotation where the yellow of the peaking pops fast on the bird. Some lenses take a lot more focus barrel rotation and the image peaking is wandering in and out and is very slow so manual doesn't work as well on those, but with the Nikon 300mm f/4 PF there is no doubt when you hit focus with peaking on. The Oly lenses seem to rotate a lot more and their 12-100mm is slow for me to nail it manually.

    Third is to raise your shadows up so you can see some detail. I find I get better results in the contrasty sun if I add +5 to the shadows in the E1M2 which raises the toe of the curve and keeps from blackening out the shadows. In shade, I'll drop it down to maybe +2 so the blacks will come back as the shade is less contrasty so dropping the shadows from +5 in sun down to +2 in shade adds back the blacks and seems to work better for me.

    Also, try the "AI Clear" from Topaz Labs that does seem to get the micro-contrast and detail up so you get more feather detail, and it seems to reduce noise as well.
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2018
  10. christofp

    christofp Mu-43 Veteran

    Jul 21, 2012
    Your photos don't look sharp enough for this lens/camera combination.

    I learned with my old EM1, that the lens can suffer from bad filters and from shutter shock.

    To help eliminating the cause, try the following:
    • Don't use any UV or protective filter
    • Don't use mechanical shutter, use AntiShock=0s at least, better use elctronic shutter
    • I use 1/100s regularly, but try to stay with 1/1000s and faster until you found the cause
    • Some users report sharper results with IBIS instead of OIS. I am quite happy with OIS down to 1/50s, but please try "Lens IS priority=on/off"
    • Agree Agree x 2
  11. Egregius V

    Egregius V Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    Jun 14, 2015
    Massachusetts, USA
    Rev. Gregory Vozzo
    Besides what was already suggested, it also helps to consider the quality of the air between you and the birds. If you're shooting at quite a distance, turbulence or haze will become more of a problem. You might also try stopping down to f/8 or f/11 at 400mm if you have enough light.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  12. I don't see a problem with any of your settings. I have my iso set at 400 permanently, even with good light and although I'm new to this lens, I can hand hold at 1/30sec without shake. I am currently using OIS. My guess is that it's a camera problem or an atmospheric one and not attributable to the lens. As for stopping down, absolutely no need with this lens as illustrated. It should be sharp wide open and I rarely go past 7.1 unless by accident. Have you turned off IBIS priority if you're using OIS? It should default to one or the other, if I remember correctly but nevertheless, it pays to turn one off.

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
    Australian Darter - Snakebird (2) by Kevin Dickinson, on Flickr
    • Like Like x 5
  13. rayr

    rayr Mu-43 Rookie

    Jul 27, 2017
    I believe you just need better light and a faster shutter. remember at 400mm you are at an 800mm equivalent, and 1/250 @ 800mm is really a stretch. The Panasonic 100-400 is a sharp lens and very capable. This was shot from a boat at iso 1000 @ 1/1600 sec at f/8.
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    • Wow Wow x 3
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Drdave944

    Drdave944 Mu-43 All-Pro Subscribing Member

    Feb 2, 2012
    Sun angle,atmosphere,focus,lens sharpness, camera shake. Birds at long distance can have problems,such as mirage effects caused by heat in atmosphere. Most great bird pictures taken by sneaking up on the bird. Sun from your back helps cure many problems. Eliminate this possibility take picture of up close object,then eliminate other problems by exclusion. So you need to get up earlier,or stay until late afternoon.
  15. Mack

    Mack Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jan 14, 2018
    Looking at the OP's bird with the orange legs, it looks like it just finished shaking its head out so even 1/1250 second might not be fast enough, hence the blur around the neck area.

    Might be the lens hunts and it just settled on a "Not quite spot-on focus" area too. At f/6.3 the AF may have some issues zeroing in. I've seen that happen with my Nikons where the focus slows down and hunts with ND filters or a slow lens in dark areas. Even with the FoCal focus tuning software with the Nikons it will show me the lens hunts around and the results are scattered with no two shots of the same target being on the same spot in its generated tuning curve. Five test shots in FoCal might show one being far sharper than the others too. The first one is always off a bit more than the subsequent ones are, so I call shot number one a "Focus tuning arrival" shot. Aside, my Olympus 60mm macro hunts like crazy at times and is slow to nail it - if it ever does.

    Also, I've sometimes noticed some oddity in the Olympus image where a gray becomes a smooth blob of color void of any detail. Sometimes its due to the editing software where a different software may make it better. Other times I don't get the why it happens and may be a defect internally in processing. If I get closer to the subject, that blur goes away and the detail there comes back even though all other areas show detail, but they also have more contrast or a different color. Weird.
  16. ArizonaMike

    ArizonaMike Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jan 19, 2018
    Arizona, USA
    But not everyone has steady hands.

    At 400mm I would not shoot at less than 1/2000 hand-held, even with IBIS, unless I had no choice. In fact I try to use 1/2000 with my Olympus 300mm lens with all of the 5 axis stabilization because my old hands are not steady and never have been, even when I was much, much younger.
    • Agree Agree x 5
    • Like Like x 1
  17. ToxicTabasco

    ToxicTabasco Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jul 2, 2018
    South West USA
    Could it be background and foreground?
  18. oldbaldy

    oldbaldy Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 21, 2014
    northumberland UK
    I have no problem with increasing speed apart from I wouldn't get any shots - I live in England ! A good day is grey cloud and sunny day spectacular. ISO would be through the roof especially for m43. I have been doing this a long time and my flickr shows some not too bad pics. So for me it nothing to do with me ( I would say that wouldn't I ) but my new stuff or lack of understanding. I did a lot of tests and read lots about mkii AF . I was using C-AF as I've always done with my SLRs and found today its pretty rubbish on oly .My 100-400 seems to backfocus most of the time which I mistakenly thought was a thing of the past with mirrorless. You never stop learning or in my case trying to . will be out in tomorrows forecast grey day to see what I can get .
  19. Phocal

    Phocal Mu-43 Legend Subscribing Member

    Jan 3, 2014
    if you are using CAF read this thread - EM1 Micro Focus Adjustment - Why and How to Perform
  20. Agreed, which is why when birding, I always shoot centre small spot with it fixed at centre. I place the spot on the area I want sharpest and then recompose. Each to his own on technique but this way is the only way I've managed to prevent that annoying hunting where the camera can't quite make up it's mind where to focus. Even damp atmosphere can send the lens hunting.
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