Nikon DX lenses not manually focusing on my OMD M1

[Bazhome97]

Just converted to M4:3 from Nikon and hoped to utilise several fairly new DX Nikon Lenses once I purchased a suitable adaptor.

I realised the auto focus plus aperture would not operate but surprised that manual focusing was not possible.

According to the adaptor suppliers when I commented upon the above problem, they understand that within the OMD M1 menu allows non M4:3 lenses to operate using manual focus but the adaptor people are not suppliers of Olympic cameras and could not advise where within the menu was this fix.

Any guidance welcome.

 

[verbatimium]

Are the lenses focus by wire, meaning they need power to be able to focus?

 

[gr6825]

I'm not aware of any focus-by-wire Nikkors or even 3rd party DX lenses. The OP needs to provide more information. If the lens + adaptor mount on the EM1, there should not be anything to limit your ability to turn the manual focus ring from near focus to infinity. Obviously, the lens should be switched to MF, if it has the M/A / M switch.

 

[Promit]

Yeah, Nikkor focus rings are mechanically linked. Aperture can be a problem, but there should be no issue with focus.

 

[RobWatson]

Obviously, the lens should be switched to MF, if it has the M/A / M switch.

Easy to miss this if not familiar with the lens.

Never had a problem besides the sloppy back focus distance on adapters (which generally is first seen with problems at infinity).

 

[Bazhome97]

Many thanks for everyone's input to my query, following a chase up with Olympus Support the answer is -
+++
When shooting with lenses that are not Micro Four Thirds or Four Thirds system lenses I recommend choosing a focal length to reduce camera shake.
Go to [Image Stabilizer], press the INFO button, select a focal length, and press OK.
• Choose a focal length between 8 mm and 1000 mm.
• Choose the value that most closely matches to the one that is printed on the lens.
+++
This statement regarding changing focal length is hidden within the instruction manual but unfortunately to date the results using all my three Nikon DX lenses have not focused to the standard I'am accustomed, so M4:3 lenses would be my recommendation at this early stage.

Thanks again everyone

 

[HarryS]

Setting the focal length number is needed if you are using the in-body stabilization, but that has nothing to do with focus.

The rest is up to the user, who has to adjust the focus manually while viewing the result in the viewfinder or rear LCD, using either focus peaking, magnified view, or the least accurate method of normal view.

 

[eteless]

Setting the focal length number is needed if you are using the in-body stabilization, but that has nothing to do with focus.

The rest is up to the user, who has to adjust the focus manually while viewing the result in the viewfinder or rear LCD, using either focus peaking, magnified view, or the least accurate method of normal view.

Normal view > Zone focusing

 

[994]

Are you talking about:

1) that when you turn the focus ring nothing happens?

or

2) that even though you focus, after you take the picture, it still looks a little blurry?

 

[Bazhome97]

item two above

 

[eteless]

Bind a button to magnified view or peaking and make sure what you want in focus is in focus.

Magnified view is more precise, however slower. Peaking is faster but somewhat unpredictable using slow lenses (or stopped down using a manual lens).

If it's an E-M1 I think the Fn2 button is bound to multifunction by default, hold it down and turn the back wheel til it goes onto magnify then press it once to bring up the green box and again to enlarge. The front wheel will zoom in and out, pressing OK will close it and return to normal view.

If you bind a button to "Peaking" and press it to activate, turning the focus will show the in focus area (area with high contrast) with white or black lines to indicate focus. Turn the focus until what you want is showing zebras.