newbie om-d questions

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by kponds, Mar 19, 2013.

  1. kponds

    kponds Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 18, 2013

    I'm an amateur shooting Canon crop DSLR and I've been longing for a smaller camera, was originally looking at the X100 or something to supplement my DSLR, but then I found the OM-D. And the more I look at it, the more I just want to replace everything with :43: gear. I don't shoot anything that requires focus tracking, Canon's crop gear is kind of stagnant, and I always need less weight/size.

    So I rented the OM-D today, and the 25mm Panasonic/Leica, to give it a test drive. So far it's very successful.

    One thing I noticed is that when the body is on, and I move it significantly (point it directly up or down), I get a clicking sound. I assume it's related to the image stabilization. Is this normal? Doesn't really bother me, just if there is something wrong with it, I want to disclose it to lensrentals asap.

    Second do many of you guys use back-button focus? That is, pressing the fn1 button for focus, and shutter half press does AE lock. Mode 3 in the af button menu I think. I have always shot this way, but the om-d makes it ergonomically challenging. Just wondering what peoples thoughts are.

    Third is there a way to get the EVF to show in black and white, but shoot RAW only? I want to visualize the shot in black and white, but shoot raw only so that I can hand process them. Whenever I change the art mode to black and white, it automatically switches to RAW+JPEG.

    Lastly, spot metering. Does the spot jump around with the autofocus point? What about with face detection. Are there any gotchas for someone who shoots in manual mode with spot metering?

    Not even going to ask the 20mm vs 25mm question for now...

    Thanks! Maybe I will post some pics soon.
  2. Rudy

    Rudy Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 24, 2013
    Oakland, CA
    The clicking sound is the aperture adjusting when you point it into or away from a light source.
    The IBIS, when activated, makes a hissing sound, but it's not very noticeable.

    I use focus on half press. For exposure I use exposure compensation on the back dial guided by the blue orange clipping overlays to expose to the right in A mode.

    Regarding the B&W preview, you could create a Myset with the art filter and assign it to FN1. That way you can preview it easily without permanently changing everything to B&W. Also the color to B&W conversion in post is obviously more flexible, so the final rendering might look very different from the preview.

    The spot meter is separate from the auto focus spot, i.e. always in the center.

  3. dragons4Mama

    dragons4Mama Mu-43 Rookie

    Dec 31, 2012
    MetroWest MA
    Noise from the Panasonic Leica 25mm could be "chattering" or "rattlesnaking" - do a search on those terms - ran across a YouTube video someone had made of the sound. Not everyone reports this sound - I've read that turning camera off and on again can stop it. I've been thinking about that lens, but would NOT like the chatter. (Don't like the slow and noisy AF of the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 on my OM-D E-M5)

    OM-D is VERY customizable. You can program which functions you want on Fn-1 (on back of camera next to replay button), Fn-2 (top, to right of shutter), Record button (top), B Fn-1 and B Fn-2 (if you have the grip) and L-Fn (on some lenses). If you find the back-button focus awkward on Fn-1 because of its placement behind the eyecup, you could try setting for Fn-2 or Rec. (If you do decide to set the Rec button to something other than Video Record, you can still record videos by turning the Mode dial to Video and pressing the Shutter to start & pressing again to stop recording.)

    I've been playing w/ spot metering vs. the full-frame metering. I'm finding that what the meter thinks is properly exposed, I find to be under exposed. The camera has several different displays that you can see on monitor or in EVF: horizontal and vertical level, under- and over-exposed areas, histogram, nothing, and at least one other. Menu options let you set which views to have available. Pressing the Info button cycles through the available displays if you're turned more than one on. I find the histogram display very helpful (histogram is overlaid on top of what is shown on monitor or in EVF - it's a strip along the bottom of the view, less than full width, less than 1/4 height). I have also set up my camera so that the EVF uses mode 3: image takes up full height and width of the EVF w/ exposure and other info overlaid along side and bottom.
  4. kponds

    kponds Mu-43 Regular

    Mar 18, 2013
    Cool, I guess coming from a DSLR I had thought the aperture stayed wide open until the shutter press. That's really nice that it does that.

    I found I can use "Monochrome" and still shoot in RAW only. I guess I was doing one of the art filters before. I know the colors are fungible in post, which I like to do, but I prefer to see a desaturated image when shooting.

    I think if I convert to right-eye shooting I can make back button focus work. I don't like the idea of using fn2 or the record button, as that makes my shutter finger slower.
  5. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    No, the spot meter goes by the center of the frame, as does center-weighted. Unless they changed something that is, this has always been the traditional way of doing it. You need to lock exposure then re-compose if your subject is not in the center of the frame (which most of the times it isn't). It should also be noted that center weighted meter will give you some control of picking a subject but will give you more consistent results. Spot metering can be the most accurate when the utmost of accuracy is needed, but it can also be thrown way off easily by landing on a small shadow or highlight. Center weighted averages out a larger area and gives more consistent results. I use it for "general purpose".

    If you want to always have full control of both focus and exposure individually, then I would highly suggest that you consider setting up back-button focus on your camera. The default setting is to have the camera lock focus and exposure at the same time as you release the shutter button. Very much a "point-and-shoot" mentality, if you ask me. Back-button focus will allow you to separate these controls into 2 or 3 steps. Focus with the back-button, lock exposure, then release the shutter (or lock exposure and release in one motion if you need to shoot quickly). With this you will never have to worry about the camera refocusing or changing exposure on its own just before the capture after you think you have locked down your focus and exposure perfectly.

    To set it up, go to Menu => Sprocket => Button/Dial => AEL/AFL. There you can set Single AF, C-AF, and MF modes. Mode 3 is the one that assigns any of those AF types to the back-button. If you set MF to Mode 3, then that will still give you MF capabilities with the focus ring, but will add S-AF capabilities to the back-button. If you set C-AF to Mode 3, that will give you continuous AF as long as you hold down the back-button. You can also set S-AF to Mode 3, but in my opinion this is redundant if you have MF set to to Mode 3. You get S-AF + MF by using MF Mode 3 anyways. I just leave S-AF to the default Mode 1 just in case I ever for whatever crazy reason want to switch to shutter-focus. But I never do. ;)

    Next, after you have your AF modes set, all you need to do is assign your AFL button, which will be your back focus button. On the Pen and OM-D cameras this is in Menu => Sprocket => Button/Dial => Button Function, but this is the one part that can vary between models. For instance, on my old E-System cameras there was only one AFL button but it could be swapped to the Fn button so you had two choices instead (if I remember, I think the E-P1 was the same). With the newer PEN cameras your possibilities are much more expandable, and the OM-D has the most customizable buttons yet, allowing you to use the Fn1, Fn2, or Record buttons which are right by your right fingers for easy access. I would also suggest setting one of these to ISO. ;)

    Of course, you then need to go through your regular control panel to set your camera to use one of the AF types that you have set to Mode 3, or use Menu => Sprocket => AF/MF => AF Mode to do that.
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  6. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    I've got my omd set for back button focus and I agree that the fn1 button is a little awkward compared to the Canon bodies. Whilst you can switch to one of the other buttons, this means you'll be using the same button for focus as shutter release, which will be slower. I think you'll just have to live with it. Personally, I'm ok with it now after a few weeks of use.
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