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New E-PM2 User - a couple of Qs on Shutter Shock, etc

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by vtsteevo, Mar 17, 2014.

  1. vtsteevo

    vtsteevo Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 20, 2012
    Hey guys, I just purchased an E-PM2. I already have a Panasonic GX-1 so all of my lenses are Lumix. 14mm, 25mm, and 45-150.

    I mainly purchased this camera because it was a stop better at high ISO and had IBIS. I take a lot of pictures of my son indoors and he is constantly moving around. So the 25mm will stay glued to the camera and I will most likely be shooting at High ISO when I am inside. The control's aren't bad. Yes they feel a bit more complex then Panasonic, but its easy to get used to. First thing I did is enable SCP.

    Now, a couple of questions.
    1. If I set LENS IS PRIORITY to ON, will IBIS automatically turn itself off when I mount the lumix 45-150, or do I still have to turn off IBIS?
    2. Do most E-PM2 users keep IBIS off at speeds higher than 1/60? I didn't think shutter shock was an issue, but after reading this thread here https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=35882&page=6 I am cringing. Subjectively speaking, the images I've taken so far with the E-PM2 are not as sharp as the ones I took with the GX-1 at similar shutter speeds (1/125-1/200 indoors). I've turned Anti-Shock to 1/8 so we will see if that helps.
    3. Does it matter if IBIS is on or off during sequential shooting?
    4. Any other considerations for using lumix lenses with an oly cam besides fixing the Chromatic Aberrations in Lightroom?

    Thanks guys!
  2. tjdean01

    tjdean01 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 20, 2013
    1. I have the PM2 and some Panasonic lenses with IS. The lens IS can't be any worse than the PM2's, so with my 12-32, I set lens priority to ON. The lens itself has no switch, so when IBIS is off in the Super Control Panel, I'm assuming it's off on the lens. And when I turn it on, it's on but not the PM2's IBIS, rather, the lens's IS.

    2. The IBIS is a feature that I use either as a tool or as something that will save me 2-3 stops of ISO. The problem I've seen is that the IBIS will systematically ensure that every shot you take is not tack-sharp. I sat there one day with my 30mm and was shooting at 1/15 shutter speed. I was taking a photo of a pillow from across the room. It's kind of hard to hand hold a 60mm equivalent lens at 1/15 sec but I'm proud of myself that I can do it around 20% of the time. And when I do it, with the Sigma 30mm, one of the sharpest lenses I've ever used (at like f5.6 where I needed to get that slower shutter speed), about 20% of the images were tack sharp. Other than those tack sharp ones, most other shots were trash. With IBIS on, maybe around 50% of the shots were totally usable, but definitely not as tack-sharp as the ones I took with it off. So, IBIS can ruin photos.

    BUT, what I've also noticed is that if you're at a fast enough shutter speed, the camera automatically disables IBIS. Also, if IBIS senses that the camera is on a tripod, it also disables itself. Back to the "tool" factor. I took some photos for ebay in my kitchen at night. Going to go online at low resolution. IBIS was on the whole time because sharpness wasn't a concern. Finally, if in low-light, I'd just assume bump the ISO up to 3200 before turning IBIS on. About the 1/125 sec shutter speeds you were taking, what lens were you using? On my 40-150, shots at that speed with IBIS on are soft because IBIS is on. But at 1/125 with the 14 or 30 look great but IBIS just doesn't go on anyway, even if you have it set to on. Note that on adapted lenses it doesn't know what FL you're at and I haven't really tested to find out at what shutter speed it disables itself. I mean it knows, because you tell it what FL your lens is, but I'm wondering if I put a 135mm on and tell it it's a 50, would it disable itself faster? Or, does the IBIS actually operate differently with a different focal length? In other words, for what reason are we telling the camera the FL--a) it matters, b) it will disable IBIS accordingly, or c) both?

    No info on your other questions. Nor have I tried the 12-32's stabilization vs the PM2's IBIS. I've looked for tests but haven't found anything substantial. I do have those photos I was talking about of the pillow. Let me find them....okay, the below are the 100% crops you'll want to see. On the left, IBIS is on. Those were the best of 10 shots (but like 5 total were usable). On the right, you see IBIS off. Maybe only these two were usable, but look how much sharper they are than with IBIS on. And here's the thread I made regarding the issue: https://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=56409

    PS, shutter shock helps a bit too

  3. vtsteevo

    vtsteevo Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 20, 2012
    Thanks tjdean01. My tests were done with the 25mm mounted, around 1/125 to 1/160. Its not that they were out of focus, but they just weren't as sharp as what I was used to with the GX1. I haven't tried disabling IBIS yet.... running around snapping pics of a 1 year old is hardly a controlled test ;) 

    So for Lens Priority, it sounds like I can just set it to ON permanently? That way if I have the 25mm non-IS lens mounted, IBIS should kick in. If I have a stabilized lumix lens, that should take over and the camera will choose it instead of IBIS.

    I see your point about the camera turning off the Lens IS when IBIS is off since there isn't a separate lens-IS switch, but its counter-intuitive since IBIS implies "body stabilization".
  4. FlyPenFly

    FlyPenFly Mu-43 Veteran

    Feb 15, 2011
    I'm not sure if IBIS actually turns itself off on tripod, I think the manual tells you to turn it off for tripod?

    Also, for fast shutter speeds, I don't yet know if IBIS really turns itself off or shutter speed is fast enough that it doesn't matter.
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