New E-PM2 Owner: Tips & Suggestions

HaViet

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Wow...looks like it's going to take 10 to 20 days to get my 17mm f2.8 lens from Hong Kong.

I guess I've been spoiled for years with Amazon 2-day shipping.
 

rfortson

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Wow...looks like it's going to take 10 to 20 days to get my 17mm f2.8 lens from Hong Kong.

I guess I've been spoiled for years with Amazon 2-day shipping.

That's a shame, It's a nice lens, especially for the price. I like the form factor, and to me it was fast enough indoors with the old E-P1. On the E-PM2 with the newer sensor and better processing, you should be able to shoot ISO 1600 or more fairly easily.
 

HaViet

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Hey guys, how do you zoom on the E-PM2? I hope I am not completely missing it, but I just don't see a zoom button/control on this camera. Thanks
 

taz98spin

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Hey guys, how do you zoom on the E-PM2? I hope I am not completely missing it, but I just don't see a zoom button/control on this camera. Thanks

Don't have any m43 zooms, but I'm pretty sure you rotate the lens to zoom.
 

HaViet

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Don't have any m43 zooms, but I'm pretty sure you rotate the lens to zoom.


I am using the kit lens 14-42mm, but that has very limited zoom (changing the focal length).

Doesn't the camera itself as a zoom function? Or I guess, I am used to the point and shoot zoom?
 

MarkRyan

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I am using the kit lens 14-42mm, but that has very limited zoom (changing the focal length).

Doesn't the camera itself as a zoom function? Or I guess, I am used to the point and shoot zoom?
There might be some cams/lenses with zoom controls on the camera, but I've never used an interchangeable-lens camera with zoom buttons. Zoom has always been handled by twisting the barrel of the lens.
 

clockwork247

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There might be some cams/lenses with zoom controls on the camera, but I've never used an interchangeable-lens camera with zoom buttons. Zoom has always been handled by twisting the barrel of the lens.


some pancake zoom has zoom buttons to press, and in the old day the minolta xi do the same thing when you twist the zoom.
 

DynaSport

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The kit lens is not a super zoom lens. It is a 3x zoom (14mm to 42mm). If you want greater zoom you will have to buy another lens.
 

HaViet

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Does anyone know where the Serial Number is located on the EPM2?

I've looked at the bottom and see something that starts with BGC. Is this the serial number?
 

popiT

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Does anyone know where the Serial Number is located on the EPM2?

I've looked at the bottom and see something that starts with BGC. Is this the serial number?

That's the #!
 

HaViet

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Which White Balance is everyone shooting with their E cameras?

Since the day I got my EPM2, I just leave it at Auto. However, as I am going through the 'Understanding Exposure' book, the author seems to favor Cloudy for outside shooting, regardless if it was sunny, cloudy, overcast, etc. He also seems to sugggest shooting in 'Incandescent' for indoors. This mode tends to give me a bit of a blue tint, and the Cloudy mode makes my images a little warmer.

I guess, it's a personal preference as to which color temp a photographer chooses, but I like to know which WB everyone else is shooting with their Olumpus and what makes you choose that particular WB.
 

jziegler

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Which White Balance is everyone shooting with their E cameras?

Since the day I got my EPM2, I just leave it at Auto. However, as I am going through the 'Understanding Exposure' book, the author seems to favor Cloudy for outside shooting, regardless if it was sunny, cloudy, overcast, etc. He also seems to sugggest shooting in 'Incandescent' for indoors. This mode tends to give me a bit of a blue tint, and the Cloudy mode makes my images a little warmer.

I guess, it's a personal preference as to which color temp a photographer chooses, but I like to know which WB everyone else is shooting with their Olumpus and what makes you choose that particular WB.

I use auto most of the time, flash when I'm using flashes, and will use another preset or custom as needed. If you need the best color accuracy for a shot, custom is the way to go. You set the custom with a netral target (a piece of paper will work, a grey card is better) and then use that for those light conditions. Incandescant for indoors will work well if you're using incandescant lights (or LED or flourescent with a similar yellow color). Indoors during the day with light coming from windows would be better with a shade setting.

Are you using RAW or jpeg? If you shoot RAW, you can change the white balance when you post-process. And that's why I use auto most of the time. Even if the camera doesn't get the white balance quite right, I can tweak it where it needs to be in Lightroom.
 

Ulfric M Douglas

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Since the day I got my EPM2, I just leave it at Auto. However, as I am going through the 'Understanding Exposure' book, the author seems to favor Cloudy for outside shooting, regardless if it was sunny, cloudy, overcast, etc.
Leave it on Auto.
The e-pM2 is one of the very few large-sensor digital cameras which, in my opinion, does a really great job of choosing WhiteBalance itself in almost all situations.
Other cameras : different story.
 

HaViet

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I use auto most of the time, flash when I'm using flashes, and will use another preset or custom as needed. If you need the best color accuracy for a shot, custom is the way to go. You set the custom with a netral target (a piece of paper will work, a grey card is better) and then use that for those light conditions. Incandescant for indoors will work well if you're using incandescant lights (or LED or flourescent with a similar yellow color). Indoors during the day with light coming from windows would be better with a shade setting.

Are you using RAW or jpeg? If you shoot RAW, you can change the white balance when you post-process. And that's why I use auto most of the time. Even if the camera doesn't get the white balance quite right, I can tweak it where it needs to be in Lightroom.

Thanks.

I currently shoot exclusively in JPEG, since I don't know how to use LightRoom yet.
 

HaViet

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Leave it on Auto.
The e-pM2 is one of the very few large-sensor digital cameras which, in my opinion, does a really great job of choosing WhiteBalance itself in almost all situations.
Other cameras : different story.


Thanks. One less option/feature to think about.
 

jziegler

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Thanks.

I currently shoot exclusively in JPEG, since I don't know how to use LightRoom yet.

If you're thinking of learning Lightroom (or a similar program, there are several others), you might want to start shooting in RAW+JPEG. That way you get the RAW files so that you have something to work with in postprocessing (yes, you can start with a JPEG, but RAW is better for this) and you still have the JPEG that you can use as-is. I still shoot this way much of the time, since my wife likes to grab the JPEGs to post on Facebook or the like, and it often takes me a long time before I get a chance to process the RAW files.
 

flamingfish

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Forgive a noob question, please! I've never used Lightroom (and am wondering if it's necessary for me, since I'm a beginner/hobbyist who doesn't shoot large numbers of pictures). Can't you correct the WB in pretty much any program? I've mostly used PSE (have version 12 now) and it lets you remove a color cast/change the color temperature. Isn't that what WB is? Is the advantage of LR that you can apply the same correction to a whole batch of photos at once, or is there another reason that LR is better?
 

jziegler

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Forgive a noob question, please! I've never used Lightroom (and am wondering if it's necessary for me, since I'm a beginner/hobbyist who doesn't shoot large numbers of pictures). Can't you correct the WB in pretty much any program? I've mostly used PSE (have version 12 now) and it lets you remove a color cast/change the color temperature. Isn't that what WB is? Is the advantage of LR that you can apply the same correction to a whole batch of photos at once, or is there another reason that LR is better?

Yes, pretty much any program will work. Google Picassa (free) will even work.

But, here's the thing. Are you using a JPEG file? That file has been compressed, and in that process some of the original data has been lost. You edit it and then save it as a JPEG again. More data is lost. This can cause visible artifacts in the file. You will get less smooth changes in colors, things lilke that. If you're using PSE to edit a RAW file (through Adobe Camera RAW, which it includes), you won't have this problem. If you shoot in JPEG and your white balannce is way off, your results will not be very good (trust me, I've been there). RAW also lets you adjust brightness/contrast far more than JPEG does without losing detail. Sure, we all want to get the exposure right in camera, but when you don't RAW gives you much more room to fix it after the fact.

LR also has a much better organizer than PSE does. The PSE one seemed pretty basic when I looked at it. This is good for sorting our photos out. As you surmise, LR can easily apply a set of changes across a batch of files. It can also do batch exports (say you want to upload a bunch of lower resolution files to Facebook, it can do that for you). LR is non-destructive too. It does not modify your original file, just applies a set of changes to it that you then export as a different file. You can do multiple virtual copies to try out different processing (Save as.. in PSE can do this too, of course) I don't remember if PSE automatically saves the original file or not. If not, it's always a good idea to keep your original around so that you can go back to it if your edits go bad (yup, been there, done that)

LR is not necessary for anyone. There isn't much (if anything) that it does for processing that ACR + PSE can't already do for you, but it makes some of that easier. If you use a MAC, Aperture is supposed to be very similar. Corel Aftershot is similar as well (and pretty cheap too, I got a free copy on sale a few months ago, but haven't used it). There are some freebies as well (Darktable, RAWTherapee, Lightzone, probably others) that are supposed to be good as well. The biggest advantage to LR (and, to a lesser extent Aperture) is that so many people use it, there is lots of help out there. Books, magazines, online training videos, online articles, etc. The other tools have much less of that support, and may also be a little slower to support new cameras.

I hope that help a little. I was slow to switch to LR, and went through many, many workflows until I got there. All had some good points, but they all have flaws (even Lightroom & Photoshop). That said, I wouldn't go back now. LR is, overall, the easiest and most powerful tool of the ones I have used.
 

popiT

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Another useful software is the Olympus Viewer. It's free and comes with the camera package or can be downloaded from their website. It can convert RAW, adjust WB, exposure, etc... Stitch panorama, create time lapse movie and share to Facebook/Flickr/Youtube/email.

But I believe it only works for Oly's.
 

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