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New E-P1 Owner, Questions

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by nicklaw17, Jun 4, 2011.

  1. nicklaw17

    nicklaw17 New to Mu-43

    Jun 4, 2011
    Hey all, I picked up an E-P1 recently, knowing it has some...quirks - but for the price of a mid line P&S, I felt compelled to bite.

    I used an e-500 for a few years before making the jump to Nikon - so I'm familiar with Oly's quirky menus, but I'd love any tips on good starting configurations. I've already seen multiple suggestions for center weight AF, to help with seeking. Any other generally accepted norms you'd recommend for initial setup?

    The second question is with regards to a good pancake lens, I'd considered the 17mm, but I've heard good things about the panasonic 20? As neat as the collapsable kit zoom is, I picked this camera up to have a good, shoot from the hip camera that's on me more than a full sized dslr (and better than the iPhone :p  ), so the extra steps to prep the kit lens for shooting isn't for me.

    Thanks guys. :) 
  2. You don't HAVE to collapse the Oly 14-42. The advantage is that you can. Only E-P1 I mostly use Program mode, centre point AF, manual ISO, centre-weighted metering, set main thumbwheel to exposure comp. That's about it, I think. Your methods may vary.
  3. guzziknight

    guzziknight Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    May 18, 2011
    I have both the 14-42 and 17mm lenses with my E-P1. I've had the camera for about 3 weeks now, and I LOVE it!! Some will say the 17 isn't that sharp, or that good, especially when compared with the Panasonic 20. I've found it to be wonderful. Check out the image page for that lens and you'll see some really nice shots. It's also significantly less expensive than the 20mm.

    As far as settings, I almost always shoot aperture or manual. I've set it up so that when I shoot ap or shutter, the thumb wheel changes EV. When in manual, the thumb wheel changes the shutter speed. I do a lot of HDR work, and that wheel seems to work better than the second dial wheel for me.

    Best thing to do is to play around with it, try different settings, and see what works best for you.

    Enjoy the camera, it's a great one, IMHO.
  4. timallenphoto

    timallenphoto Mu-43 Veteran

    May 20, 2011
    Kent, England
    I'm also new to E-P1, is there an easy way to see how much space is left on a card?? Thanks.
  5. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    I think the Lumix 20mm f/1.7 would be a great lens for you. It's faster, sharper, smaller, and quicker to access than the retractable kit zoom, so it should meet your needs perfectly for shooting from a hip with a small camera that you carry with you everywhere.

    I wouldn't put down the m.Zuiko 17mm f/2.8, but in pretty much every way the Lumix 20mm f/1.7 is somewhat better. Nicer build, sharper optics, faster aperture.... Since you are buying a new lens I'd just go for the best, even if the difference is negligible (unless the price gap is too big for your budget). If you got the 17mm in a kit then it'd be a different story... it's a fine lens to keep.

    Some people preferred the 17mm m.Zuiko for being wider than the Lumix 20mm, but If you want to go wider you now have the option of the Lumix 14mm f/2.5.
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Hikari

    Hikari Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nov 26, 2010
    The remaining frames counter tells you that.
  7. timallenphoto

    timallenphoto Mu-43 Veteran

    May 20, 2011
    Kent, England
    Thanks, I guess I'm just used to my Canon gear still!

    Another quick one, even with the manual I'm not quite sure what the difference between P and Ps mode is??
  8. Brian Mosley

    Brian Mosley Administrator Emeritus

    Dec 15, 2009
    Nick, take a look at this thread... it used to be sticky, so took me a while to dig it up. Most of the E-P2 stuff applies to the E-P1 too.

    Good luck, it's a fantastic camera - the 17mm f2.8 gives a great 35mm perspective, but I much prefer the 20mm f1.7 for sharp image quality and the extra flexibility.


  9. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    Nick the 17mm is great for 'from the hip'.
    Tim the frames remaining is the big number bottom right on the screen.
    Ps is just P when you've turned your thumbwheel to ask for faster or slower shutterspeed than the camera has chosen for you. Rolling it back to where it started should put you back in P. It is kind of a way to use S when in P ... or you could use S instead. Or A. I use A simply because I like to force max aperture all the time on this 17mm.
  10. Adubo

    Adubo SithLord Subscribing Member

    Nov 4, 2010
    I have the oly kit lens te 17mm pancake and the 20mm. The 20mm is fastest sharpest and best to use. BUT i use the 17mm 85% of the time. Because of its focal length. Its a 34mm equiv in 35 format. And 2.8 is not that "slow".

    You can view samples of it in my thread post just dig it up. Most of my shots were taken with the 17mm

    Cheers and enjoy your e-p1!


    Sent from my iOS using Mu-43 App
  11. Pan Korop

    Pan Korop Mu-43 Veteran

    Mar 31, 2011
    Phare Ouest
    Agreed with the defenders of the 17mm.
    Especially with the E-P1, try and find it vith the VF1 optical viewfinder--in case you get a sore hip and want to try eye-level ;) 
  12. mauve

    mauve Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 9, 2010
    Paris, France
    Hi Brian,

    Words of wisdom as usual, nice to hear from you again ! :2thumbs:

  13. Ps refers to Program Shift mode.
  14. Amin Sabet

    Amin Sabet Administrator

    Apr 10, 2009
    Boston, MA (USA)
    +1 :drinks:
  15. aaiek

    aaiek New to Mu-43

    Jun 9, 2011
    Hi All,

    First time poster, long time reader of everything on the site. I have been an owner of an EP1 for about 9 months, and transitioned from a fuji bridge camera.

    This was a large step up, especially interpreting Olympus EP1 menus for the first time. I have searched endlessly on the web for alternate guides to simplify my understanding and assist in my self education of the camera and its detailed functions.

    I recently purchased the Magic Lantern Guide for the EP1 and this has assisted me greatly. I have changed a number of settings and button functions to improve my ability to get the most from the camera.
  16. timallenphoto

    timallenphoto Mu-43 Veteran

    May 20, 2011
    Kent, England
    Thanks all for help on Ps mode, I knew what it was called but had not used it before on other cameras and after a little play around I now know what it does! Feel such a noob!
  17. 369

    369 Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 10, 2010
    I also have owned the EP1 for some time now and still learning. I have a few questions...

    when I take a picture and review it on the lcd and zoom in the picture, I see noise for example a persons face looks sharp but as i start to zoom in the closer i get to nose and eyes it not sharp and its more grainy. is there a setting that solves this issue?

    What is the focus mode that you guys use. as in center, evaluative etc. I also have somehow enables the level where the horizontal and vertical lines show up on the lcd, how to turn this off.

    Any standard setting you guys are using in P mode so you take out the camera focus and take a picture without having to change a lot of settings.
  18. Micro4/3 cameras only seem to use a reduced thumbnail type image for reviewing images. There is liitle point in using 14x (Oly) and 16x (Panny) because it doesn't show the true detail of the image.

    The level indicators are one of the display modes. Keep pressing the info button until you find one that you like.

    Your choices of focus mode are single target and multi target. In the second the camera will choose a focus point for you. I've never liked nor trusted this feature on any camera that I have owned.
  19. timallenphoto

    timallenphoto Mu-43 Veteran

    May 20, 2011
    Kent, England
    And it has to be said, the E-P1 screen is pretty awful, one thing I miss from my S90 is the amazing screen.
  20. rparmar

    rparmar Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jun 14, 2011
    Limerick, Ireland
    The E-P1 screen is fine for reviewing at 7x magnification. You'll get more noise etc. but just ignore that as not being representative of the finished image.

    If you see the image is not sharp on magnification and you took the shot in low light, then there are three likely reasons. The first is because the camera wasn't in focus precisely, which commonly happens with open apertures. That is, the camera will focus on something, but not exactly what you want. Because the depth of field (DOF) is so narrow, you miss getting the right thing in focus. The solution is to focus manually. On the eyes, as a rule.

    The second issue will be subject movement. At slow shutter speeds moving objects will appear blurred.

    The third possibility is camera shake. The IBIS compensates a decent amount but cannot work miracles.

    One thing that might help all three issues is to increase the ISO and put up with a bit more noise.
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