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Neighborhood night sky.

Discussion in 'Astrophotography' started by DoofClenas, Feb 20, 2014.

  1. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror!

    940
    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Clint
    I really need to get into night sky stacking software...anyone have any good mac recommendations?

    All shot with the em1 and ZD7-14 (I think all at 7mm) iso 800,

    Looking South
    EM191089-20140219-X2.

    Looking North
    EM191087-20140219-2-X2.

    Looking Up
    EM191093-20140219-X3.

    Looking home :)
    EM191092-20140219-X2.
     
    • Like Like x 6
  2. CiaranCReilly

    CiaranCReilly Mu-43 Veteran

    481
    Oct 18, 2012
    Dublin
    Ciaran Reilly
    Nice shots, although you could do with a slightly shorter shutter speed, 1/focal length seconds will reduce the "potato" shape of the stars... night also be able to push ISO a bt higher to compensate. I'm not sure if stacking will help that much with those kind of shots, or are you planning on using a tracker?

    Really like how sharp the houses are in number 2!
     
  3. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror!

    940
    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Clint
    Im just starting to get into night time stuff. How high, these were at 800 iso. The first 3 shots were 30 second exposures. I figured with stacking, I could decrease to 5 seconds each (bumping the iso some), and take a few shots to stack. Perhaps I'm going about this wrong. I just downloaded nebulosity 3.0, but haven't had a chance to try it

    My other thought is this, I'm just not sure I want to spend the money on it:
    http://www.amazon.com/iOptron-3302B...&qid=1392926701&sr=1-1&keywords=iOptron+3302B
     
  4. CiaranCReilly

    CiaranCReilly Mu-43 Veteran

    481
    Oct 18, 2012
    Dublin
    Ciaran Reilly
    They are all beautiful shots. The second and fourth the stars are a little elongated. I'd say you could try 1600, I've shot some ISO 800 with an E-P1 that was ok, I'd guess the E-M1 would be able to go at least one more stop.

    Hmm, maybe stacking would work, but with the speed the stars move at, it may be tricky getting everything lined up. Have you Photoshop? That tracker does look the business, about the price of a lens, may be worth it if you plan to get into astrophotography more.

    There's some very good reading here, Bart is a very skilled astrophotographer: http://www.bartbusschots.ie/blog/?p=2226

    Also a few nice shots here for inspiration: http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2013/...y-with-a-camera-and-tripod-by-chris-malikoff/

    Looks like you have really nice clear skies where you shoot!
     
  5. Timmy

    Timmy Mu-43 Regular

    110
    Dec 3, 2013
    Wiltshire - UK
    Amazing photos - I've been trying this out recently. Wish I had night sky's like that!

    I tried stacking but it doesn't really work with foreground objects / landscape - when it lines up everything else is a mess, fixing it in pshop is possible but hard work. Stacking (without trails) seems to be more suited for star-only photos. It seems most night landscape photographers work on the basis of getting everything right in a single photo - a bit more effort on an M43 sensor.

    Don't be afraid to bump up the ISO a lot - you can always iron it out later (I found the topaz denoise plugin amazing for removing night-sky noise) - and I found a remote shutter is essential.
     
  6. rklepper

    rklepper Mu-43 Top Veteran

    733
    Dec 19, 2012
    Iowa, USA
    Robert
    I really like the first one. I'm not too keen on photos of the sky are just the sky seems to me they have to have something else there to keep perspective. So the third one is kind about for me but I do like your other ones. The first one is my favorite. Thanks again for sharing.
     
  7. RT_Panther

    RT_Panther Mu-43 Legend

    May 4, 2011
    Texas
    Gorgeous! :thumbup:
     
  8. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror!

    940
    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Clint
    Thanks all....Jupiter is so bright in the first one! I can't wait for my 75mm to show up, along with my 135 and 200...they should be here tomorrow or Monday.
     
  9. jloden

    jloden Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 15, 2012
    Hunterdon County, NJ
    Jay
    I'm no expert - I've only had a chance to do star photos once. Having said that, based on my experience I'd try for pushing the ISO if you're not using stacking, and you want a shutter speed somewhere between 15-30s maximum depending on focal length before you run into star trails.

    If you end up finding some stacking software please do share, I'd love to try that out with my m4/3 gear sometime using the 7-14mm especially.

    I did some shots at the top of Haleakala on Maui this summer and I was shooting a 12mm f/2.8 lens (18mm equivalent) on an X-E1 at ISO 3200 and 6400. Made a few mistakes and I have a lot more to learn yet, but it was a decent first attempt and good learning experience. Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'll share a few below in case it's helpful to you.

    [Sorry it's not m4/3 but it's what I had with me on the trip :tongue:]

    10918499093_4c9455f762_c.
    Haleakala by Night by jloden, on Flickr

    30s . f/2.8 . ISO 3200 . 12 mm


    10918225185_bb851f4b9e_c.
    Haleakala by Night by jloden, on Flickr

    30s . f/2.8 . ISO 6400 . 12 mm


    10918181575_9a36986012_c.
    Haleakala by Night by jloden, on Flickr

    30s . f/2.8 . ISO 3200 . 12 mm


    10918250505_ba913d682a_c.
    Haleakala by Night by jloden, on Flickr

    30s . f/2.8 . ISO 3200 . 12 mm
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. MarkoPolo

    MarkoPolo Mu-43 Regular

    141
    Jan 25, 2014
    Greeley, CO
    Mark Brown
    Clint, those are really nice. Wow, it's still deep in winter there. It must be pretty dark there to not have overpowering ambient light.
     
  11. Jeff1:1

    Jeff1:1 Mu-43 Regular

    70
    Dec 2, 2013
    Chicago
  12. 350duser

    350duser Mu-43 Veteran

    313
    Sep 26, 2012
    Brisbane, QLD
    Nice pics to OP and Jloden.

    Thanks for the tps as well.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror!

    940
    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Clint
    Thanks, yeah I fear ol' man winter has a stronghold on the area up here. As to light pollution...the night skies up here are absolutely awesome, especially along the west coast.

    Here's one I shot last night...The Pleiades. Shot using a 200mm Super Tak. Stack of 10 3200 iso .6 sec @ f4.

    Untitled1-20140222-X2.
     
    • Like Like x 3
  14. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror!

    940
    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Clint
    Great shots...highjack away :)

    I did end up pushing the iso up to 3200 for my shot of the pleiades. I tried auto stacking in Photoshop, but it didn't work, so I ended up aligning the ten shots myself.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. jloden

    jloden Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 15, 2012
    Hunterdon County, NJ
    Jay
    Neat - so you were able to manually line them up in Photoshop? That must have been fun to do by hand... :biggrin:
     
  16. slothead

    slothead Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 14, 2012
    Frederick, MD
    I'm not sure there are stacking programs like Deep Sky Stacker for the Mac (if you find any please let me know) unless you use one of the windows simulators on your Mac (which I don't want to do).

    I have been told that Deep Sky Stacker doesn't need to be perfectly aligned since it does some of its own aligning during processing (but I have not pushed to see how much it can align).
     
  17. slothead

    slothead Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 14, 2012
    Frederick, MD
    So when you aligned the shots in PS, did you also include Dark frames and Bias frames like DSS uses (I don't see how you could do that)?
     
  18. DoofClenas

    DoofClenas Who needs a Mirror!

    940
    Nov 9, 2012
    Traverse City, MI
    Clint
    10 shots, one in each layer...

    100% opacity was the bottom layer...then with each layer at 50% I aligned them by hand...took about 15 minutes.

    From that point I adjusted the opacities and changed them all to screen (minus the bottom layer). The second layer I set opacity at 50 (1/2)...then with the third layer I set the opacity at 33 (1/3)....and so on and so forth...25% screen, 20% screen, 17% screen, 14%, 12%, 11%, 10%.

    I then flattened the image and adjusted levels and clarity and such in lightroom.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. slothead

    slothead Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 14, 2012
    Frederick, MD
    Well Clint, you're better with PS than I am! Does what you did have the effect of the dark and bias frames in counteracting hot pixels and averaging (I think that's the right term) the camera sensor like DSS does?

    I am not familiar with what "changing them to screen" means.