1. Welcome to Mu-43.com—a friendly Micro 4/3 camera & photography discussion forum!

    If you are thinking of buying a camera or need help with your photos, you will find our forum members full of advice! Click here to join for free!

Need some OM-D video pointers

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Kevmaughan, Jun 17, 2012.

  1. Kevmaughan

    Kevmaughan Mu-43 Regular

    Dec 26, 2011
    I've been shooting some videos around the house and I'm surprised at the clarity, but I'm not sure that I'm doing this video thing right. I'm well schooled in the photographic functions of a camera, but I'm a noob when it comes to video (usually set the camcorder to dummy mode and shoot away). A couple of issues that I'm not sure about.
    1) Even when my subject is fairly static (1 month old baby), the focus seems to bounce a little. Just enough to be distracting.
    2) Slight movements seem to induce the wobble or jello effect that I thought would be eliminated moving from my EP3

    I am using aperture mode and shooting at f2-2.8 depending on the lens (Oly 12mm and PL25). I am also using the continuous AF. Would it help to stop the lens down some? Is the jello effect from a shutter speed that is too slow? Would I be better off using a different focusing method and/or moving to a faster shutter speed?
  2. berni29

    berni29 Mu-43 Regular

    Jun 5, 2012

    I am no expert on video at all, but I think you are probably better off using manual focus, or AF when you half press the shutter. Also I prefer a higher frame rate so shoot 720p

  3. apekkpul

    apekkpul Mu-43 Rookie

    May 2, 2012
    Some hints

    You will get the best video quality when you turn the left dial to video mode, and set all to manual. Keep the shutter 1/30 (very dark), 1/50 (Europe), or 1/60 (US). In a bright light you need to use a ND filter if you shoot a wide open. Consider purchasing a variable ND filter that can be used with step-up filters with all your lenses.

    IBIS only works with native lenses, and they are pretty sharp and introduce easily moire. You may want to decrease sharpness (-2), contrast (-1), and saturation (-1). I typically use "Muted" picture style.

    Slow pans and tilts can be done handhold when IBIS is on, but IBIS doesn't fully replace a proper support like monopod or tripod.

    • Like Like x 3
  4. M4/3

    M4/3 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Sep 24, 2011
    I havn't noticed any wobble or jello in full 1080 HD or 720 HD. I use the 14-42mm kit lens in A mode, f5.6 to f8.0 outdoors. Have not tried low light indoor shooting yet. I do know camcorder shooters tend to try a stick with a shutter speed of 60 or 120, if possible, but I have not attempted shooting shutter priority with the E-M5 yet. I think the lens might need an ND filter(s) to bring the speed down that low when shooting outdoors.

    Yes, it's fustrating there doesn't seem to be any website, manual or book available to tell folks what camera settings will produce optimal video quality results when using Oly cameras or mirrorless cameras in general. So I just experiment...experiment...experiment. I use C-AF too because I shoot moving subjects or I move the camera toward or away from subjects. C-AF focus sometimes works good and sometimes it hunts or seems too slow. So sometimes I keep pressing the shutter button half way to keep the camera focusing fast, but obviously that can sometimes induce hunting too. Maybe S-AF would work better for a fairly static subject like a baby, but I'm just guessing.
  5. Sammyboy

    Sammyboy m43 Pro

    Oct 26, 2010
    Steeler Country
    Have you tried C-AF+TR with Face Detect on, this should work well with babies.
  6. fooddude

    fooddude Mu-43 Regular

    May 22, 2012
    -MF or S-AF
    -Always M exp
    -Always on Video-Mode on mode-dial (because when you hit the video-record button in m/s/a/p or any stills-mode, it automatically turns into Auto-exp regardless if set to M in the menu)
    -Always on 1/60th, since this is the 180º shutter rule (ie: half the frame rate. 30p = 1/30th second and half of that is 1/60th..gives the best and most "even" motion blur between frames). But I think 1/30th might be good for low-light emergencies although it might give too much blur.
    -Hoya ND400 filter or B+W 3.0 ND filters. Both are 9 and 10 stop, perfect and more than enough to shoot wide-open or long exposure in the sun. I like these better as I don't need to fiddle with those adjustable ND hong kong filters and usually go full dark anyways if I even had those adj ND filters.
    -Tripod for static shots or timelapses.
    -Muted -2, -2, -2 all around (less contrast = more detail in shadows and highlights, less sharpening = less moire and aliasing, less saturation = more natural colors that aren't oversaturated)

    ..that's all I can think of for now. I'll post if I think of anymore.

    I also notice the wavy jello effect from IBIS is only on wide-angle lenses on the edges/corners, and also from users shaking it too much. I find IBIS magical. It's something no other camera has and makes the OMD dang special. It's the reason I have one and I'd rather have than my old 5n, 5d2 or even the 5d3 or D800. IBIS is the shizzle!
    • Like Like x 4
  7. VisualFeast

    VisualFeast Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 14, 2012
    Also make sure iEnhance is turned off. I had it on and was shooting some corporate interviews, and not only were they all weirdly saturated (reds were funny on some people's skin), the colors continually shifted ever so slightly, but the worst part was on most light-skinned people the frame flickered really oddly & randomly.

    Turning off iEnhance immediately fixed all those oddities & gave a nice solid picture. Reading the description of iEnhance, it looks like it's trying to dynamically adjust the picture for situations, and you definitely don't want it messing with it while shooting video.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Steph

    Steph Mu-43 Veteran

    Aug 18, 2011
    Great advices here !
  9. Kevmaughan

    Kevmaughan Mu-43 Regular

    Dec 26, 2011
    My original issue came from indoor shooting near a window so lighting wasn't too terribly bad. I feel like the quality of the video was good (as far as whether to adjust the sat, sharpness, and contrast setting).

    I thought the shutter was too slow, but how can you tell? When shooting in aperture mode, I don't recall seeing the shutter speed. Is there a way to see the settings once the video is complete. I haven't been able to see any exif equivalent on the video files once I put them on the computer. I'll give manual exposure a shot to see if I can see a difference.
  10. MrKal_El

    MrKal_El Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Mar 24, 2011
    I really have been looking for this info! Thanks guys!
  11. dcisive

    dcisive Mu-43 Veteran

    Feb 19, 2010
    Salt Lake City, Utah
    If I recall 2 of the most problematic issues are fluctuations of exposure while panning or zooming during video and the erratic focusing when a subject is not static. I also recall seeing the remedy to these is #1 setting the video from the video mode on the dial and dialing in a fixed aperture so it won't fluctuate as it would otherwise, and then #2 from what someone else mentioned, use C-AF with the TR for tracking. I seems to me when you don't use the tracking it is TOO fast to try to adjust and seems erratic. When the tracking is on it slows things just enough to smooth out the transitions more. I'll have to play with this more myself. I actually prefer the higher bit rate 720P mode. I don't require a larger picture than that, and in the end I'll be converting the file anyway. Less chance of any artifacts. So far this way I've been doing it has provided me with better video's than I was getting from a Nikon D7000 or a Sony NEX-5N. Not shabby at all. And oh those colors are just wonderful
    • Like Like x 1
  12. fooddude

    fooddude Mu-43 Regular

    May 22, 2012
    Again...never shoot video while being on any of the stills-modes, m/s/a/p, because it will be Auto-exposure, regardless if M exp was set inside the menu for video-mode.

    That quick, red-dot-video-release button, really is useless for video-shooting, and will tend to be a problem because it will give accidental-shooting-in-Auto-exp for video. It is best to set that red-dot button and customize it for something better, like WB or Iso; as doing this will force you to set the left-mode-dial in video-mode all the time whenever you want to shoot video, and in turn, you will never accidentally shoot in Auto-Exp when you wanted to shoot in Manual-mode originally.

    To shoot Manual-Exp Video, you MUST set the left Mode-Dial to Video-Mode.
    • Like Like x 1
  13. fooddude

    fooddude Mu-43 Regular

    May 22, 2012
    180º shutter is the ideal shutter that gives 1/2 exposed frame, and the other 1/2 nothing/blank, in between frames.. giving it a nice even, natural, smooth blurred frame that's equivalent to when the shutter is closed.

    For 30p video:
    1/60 = a nice 180º shutter
    1/50 = slightly more motion blur, 216º shutter
    1/40 = more motion blur, 270º shutter
    1/30 = high motion blur.. equivalent to having the shutter turned "off" on a film camera and it's like having the shutter basically controlled whenever a new frame is introduced; shutter stays open during the enitre 360º revolutions...so being that it is shooting 30fps, and having the shutter always open or "off", it will shoot 30fps or 1/30th automatically, once it gets to the next frame

    I think, for low light situations, like a bar, club, concert, where the lights are almost totally off, shooting slower than 180º or 1/60th should be fine. It'll gain a lot of light and 1/3 to a full stop of light. 1/50th still looks nice and not too blurry and I've read that a couple old film makers actually prefer 220º shutter (our camera's closest to that is 216º, very similar), as it gives a tad more blur and gives a certain vibe and looks more dramatic. I also read the same for using 1/40th. I guess it's al subjective. I typically used only the 180º shutter rule on all my past hdslr's (ie: 24p at 1/50, or 30p at 1/60)..but I will surely use the slower shutters more so, especially in low-light situations. I guess it's all subjective - Whatever looks good to you, works. But in general, if you shoot video, one should stick to 1/40-1/60 (and the occasional 1/30 for emergencies) to capture motion blur, and never go higher (since higher will look very choppy, strobe-like, digital and too crispy).

    Of course, a good exception would be if you plan to use a slow-motion plug-in in your video editor, like Twixtor, where a sharper, less-motion-blurry, image/video is more (higher shutter speeds; like 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, etc.) welcome for its' processing of making new frames for slow-motion; but that's a diff subject.
    • Like Like x 3
  14. hkpzee

    hkpzee Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 5, 2011
    Hong Kong
    Thanks for the detailed explanation, fooddude! I konw very little about video shooting and have been wondering why shutter speed matters in video shooting. You answered all my questions, and more...
  15. SnapDuck

    SnapDuck Mu-43 Regular

    May 13, 2012
    N. California
    Does auto white balance cause problems with video as well? I made a video a few days ago at the beach where I panned the camera slowly across the beach front and I noticed that the tint of the video changed slightly while panning - Maybe this was just the exposure changing and not the WB.
  16. fooddude

    fooddude Mu-43 Regular

    May 22, 2012
    AWB always shifts, in any camera, especially if you change the framing, subject, panning. Best is to lock it by using Manual WB.
  17. marcusmichaels

    marcusmichaels Mu-43 Regular

    Jul 10, 2012
    Marcus Michaels
    This. And another thing that should probably be mentioned about the OM-D is that in 1080 mode, it's actually 1080i (interlaced) as opposed to 1080p (progressive) - that's why I prefer to shoot with the 720p mode, because I prefer progressive as it captures full images instead of half of two images to make one, as interlaced does.
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Kevmaughan

    Kevmaughan Mu-43 Regular

    Dec 26, 2011
    Is there any pointers for using manual focus? I don't see any way to magnify the image on the viewfinder. I'm not having much luck getting focus right with such a small view of things. Most of my video is indoors so I am using the lenses wide open which doesnt help the matter. Just curious as to whether I'm just missing something with The video operation. Unfortunately, I'm beginning to think I better just stick to my canon camcorder.
  19. pheaukus

    pheaukus Mu-43 Regular

    Jun 22, 2012
    I want to thank all contributors because most given advice applies to my PL3 + legacy lens combo as well :2thumbs:

    Finally I can shoot nice video! Wowee! :biggrin:
  20. pheaukus

    pheaukus Mu-43 Regular

    Jun 22, 2012
    You could attach an external video monitor with focus peaking?

    / Edit: like this one
    • Like Like x 1
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.