Need recommendation for a manual prime lens for portraits etc.

[ean10775]

Is there anything else that needs to be set in the camera (menus) besides setting the shooting mode to Aperture priority, when using these legacy lenses?

That depends on the camera model. Panasonic cameras for example have a menu option to 'Shoot without lens'...that needs to be turned on in order to use legacy lenses. Olympus cameras don't require this. You also aren't just limited to Aperture priority - you can shoot in Manual as well. Auto, Program and Shutter Priority are the only modes that won't work since the camera has no way of controlling the aperture of the lens.

 

[Klorenzo]

Is there anything else that needs to be set in the camera (menus) besides setting the shooting mode to Aperture priority, when using these legacy lenses?

Yes, a couple. With Olympus you need to manually set the focal length of the lens in the AF settings so that IBIS works correctly. You can do this from SCP->focus settings->Info.
You can also setup one of the MySets for manual focus lenses assigning magnify and peaking to function buttons.
If you usually stop down the lens a lot and find the image too dark there should also be a setting to boots the EVF image.

 

[RamblinR]

You mention that you are saving up for the EM10 and a 45mm.
I would keep saving my pennies and get a used 45mm when you can manage it and then continue to save for the EM10.
Reason: Focusing without an EVF would be tedious and you might as well put your funds towards the lens that you actually want.

 

[ean10775]

With Olympus you need to manually set the focal length of the lens in the AF settings so that IBIS works correctly.

Oh yeah, forgot about that one!

 

[Klorenzo]

The sigma 60/2.8 is a great portrait lens with a very good price. A used one could be close to twice what you would spend on lens+adapter ($40+) or even more for fancy lenses.

 

[EdH]

No, I'm afraid the Konica and Minolta adapters are different. You'll need Minolta SR or MD to M4/3 for your new 45mm. The Konicas would need Konica AR to M4/3.
The Minolta adapter is probably more useful/flexible as there are many more Minolta SR-mount lenses about. I also have Minolta-mount lenses by Vivitar, Sigma and Tamron. These third-party lenses would be much harder to find in Konica mount..
If I had to make a choice I'd keep my Konicas over my Minolta-mount lenses, but that's a personal thing rather than saying one is better than the other.

 

[jhumroo]

Yes, a couple. With Olympus you need to manually set the focal length of the lens in the AF settings so that IBIS works correctly. You can do this from SCP->focus settings->Info.
You can also setup one of the MySets for manual focus lenses assigning magnify and peaking to function buttons.
If you usually stop down the lens a lot and find the image too dark there should also be a setting to boots the EVF image.

I don't see Focus Setting in SCP. Is there another way to get to it?

Thanks

 

[Klorenzo]

I don't see Focus Setting in SCP. Is there another way to get to it?

Thanks

It's in the bottom left corner if I remember correctly. Ok, I checked online, sorry it's not the AF box, but the IS box. Press OK -> Info -> use wheel to change the value. This on E-M10.

Otherwise yes, you can do this from the menu'...should be something IBIS related but I do not remember where.

 

[jhumroo]

It's in the bottom left corner if I remember correctly. Ok, I checked online, sorry it's not the AF box, but the IS box. Press OK -> Info -> use wheel to change the value. This on E-M10.

Otherwise yes, you can do this from the menu'...should be something IBIS related but I do not remember where.

The IS options I have are OFF, Auto, Vertical IS, and Horizontal IS. Should I turn IS to off?

I don't see a place to specify the focal length of the adapted lens.

Thanks!

 

[Klorenzo]

The IS options I have are OFF, Auto, Vertical IS, and Horizontal IS. Should I turn IS to off?
I don't see a place to specify the focal length of the adapted lens.

IS should be on, Auto or S-IS1 depending on the model. Activate SCP, enter IS settings. While you are on this screen where you can change the IS mode press the Info button. Or check the screen for something related to the "focal length".
You should see something like this (this is from an old model): http://www.olympusamerica.com/files/oima_cckb/faq_images/E-510_OMLensIS.jpg

 

[jhumroo]

IS should be on, Auto or S-IS1 depending on the model. Activate SCP, enter IS settings. While you are on this screen where you can change the IS mode press the Info button. Or check the screen for something related to the "focal length".
You should see something like this (this is from an old model): http://www.olympusamerica.com/files/oima_cckb/faq_images/E-510_OMLensIS.jpg

Okay. I'll try that.

 

[Speedliner]

Lots of positive reviews of the Russian Jupiter and Helios lenses as low-cost portrait lenses. I haven't tried them but apparently they are sharp in the center and create interesting bokeh. Oodles of them on eBay.

 

[scottz]

The Nikon 50 mm f1.8 Series E might be worth checking out. It was a budget lens for Nikon but it was very popular for the images it produced.

 

[pinoyborian]

If you are planning to get the Oly 45 in the future, can I recommend you get hold of a Minolta MD 45/2 to get a feel of the focal length? It's pancake size, the adapter is even bigger than it (my MD adapter is large compared to my FD one). I used it in f2 once on a photoshoot with a model and the photos came out fantastic, at least to my beginner's eyes. Check out the images in the adapted lens section to get a feel. I also have a Minolta MD 50/1.4 but I used it mainly for 'macro' shots (not lately though). I was influenced by the adapted lens section images.

 

[ManofKent]

The Nikon Pancake 45 is a lovely lens but hideously expensive compared to the 50's. My favourite of the 50's is the humble Nikkor 50/2 AI.

 

[freyr]

Lots of positive reviews of the Russian Jupiter and Helios lenses as low-cost portrait lenses. I haven't tried them but apparently they are sharp in the center and create interesting bokeh. Oodles of them on eBay.

As a person living in Bulgaria (formerly closely associated with the USSR) we have tons of Jupiters and Helioses. I've tried most of them and they have left me with mixed feelings. Keep in mind that most (if not all) Russian models are Zeiss copycats, which may sound good, but in reality it all comes down to luck. The quality control back then was sloppy, to say the least. Results may vary depending on the year, the mount (apart from M42 there are some made in M39 and Contax-Kiev bayonet as well) and the way the lens was kept. I have come to the conclusion that the older these things are, the less chance there is of getting a dud. Some people even say the first lenses produced in the USSR had the glass confiscated from the Zeiss factory.
Some personal experience:
Helios 44-2: Very fun lens and surprisingly sharp, very nice bokeh
Jupiter-3: Quite soft wide open, would need to stop down considerably
Jupiter-9: It's either going to be awesome or terrible, depending on how drunk the person was when he made it. (joking of course) I'd go with an older, M39 version

Sorry for the long post and potentially bad English, it's not my first language
Cheers!

 

[Iconindustries]

Thanks for the clarification. I was able to snag a 45mm Rokkor f2 on ebay. Hopefully it's in good shape (pictures of the lens looked okay), so I'm looking forward to trying it out.

Hey mate, what's your thoughts now that you've got the lens. You'll have to show show some photos.

 

[jefft]

Love my Pentax A 50mm F1.4; the manual focus ring turns like a dream and renders beautifully too.