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Need helping trimming down my gear.

Discussion in 'Open Discussion' started by RobertS, Feb 25, 2013.

  1. RobertS

    RobertS Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 28, 2011
    I understand that the decision will ultimately depend on me. But I sure would like to simply see what you folks might do in helping me to trim, or rearrange, my gear in an effort to get the most use from the least gear. In other words, limiting, or eliminating, any overlap or DUPLICATION of equipment.
    Here's what I currently have:
    Canon T2i camera
    Canon 15-85mm USM lens
    Canon 70-200 f4 IS "L" lens(plus 1.4X TC)
    Rokinon 8mm fisheye
    E-PL2 camera
    OLY 14-42mm II
    OLY 40-150mm lens
    Canon SX230HS (14X pocket-size P&S)
    My shooting habits (subjects): wildlife in field (zoos and State and National Parks),
    natural scenics, family events(and portraits), hockey and football, cityscapes, architecture, old buildings.
    Perhaps you might recommend eliminating some equipment, but also acquiring something (perhaps a fast prime lens)at the same time?
    This is a tough question. But based on this minimal info., what would you suggest? Thank you!
  2. arg245

    arg245 Mu-43 Rookie

    Apr 25, 2012
    South Florida
    In the end, I dumped all of my Canon gear and went exclusively m4/3rds. I was able to garner enough from the sale of my gear to go with a GH3 and several lenses that work great for what I like to shoot, which is very similar to what you described.

    I do sometimes miss the speed of my 7D (it was damned fast!), as well as some other "features", but in the end, I don't regret it at all, and would do it all over again.

    I suggest you settle on one format, and stick to it, no only to maximize your resources, but also to allow you to learn one system VERY well.

  3. RobertS

    RobertS Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 28, 2011
    That is good advice, Andy. Though I doubt that any MFT gear can handle the sports shooting requirement....especially indoor youth hockey. But I'd love to be proven wrong.
  4. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    lol, sorry to break it to you but it would be way too easy to prove you wrong. The m4/3 system is a camera system just like any other and can be used just like any other camera system. Dropping the mirror gives it many advantages in various things, and a few disadvantages in other things... but it does not take it out of the realm of any genre of photography. Indoor youth hockey is unquestionably within the realm of m4/3.

    Especially when I look at your list of DSLR gear... there is absolutely nothing there which can't be done better with a MFT system. Not saying that MFT is a better system, but saying that your options in MFT can easily out-perform what you have in the EOS system if you're willing to spend the money.

    Not that I fully agree with sticking with one format either. I say keep and use whatever makes you happy, but realize that most of the limitations come from behind the camera, not behind the lens. ;) 
    • Like Like x 5
  5. Zariell

    Zariell Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Sep 28, 2012
    Bountiful, UT
    +1 well said sir, well said!
  6. WT21

    WT21 Mu-43 Legend Subscribing Member

    Feb 19, 2010
    You could easily keep the T2i + the 70-200. Do you make much use of the TCON? I'd drop the other items, and go with m43 for the lighweight/travel part, but I'm not partial at all to your m43 gear.

    I'd prefer to see a newer body like maybe the Panny G5 (or EPL5 or EPM2 + VF2) with P100-300 lens for wildlife, and a nice Oly 17/1.8 and/or P14 and an Oly 45/1.8. The best "kit" zoom is the P14-45 (not the 14-42), but the primes are all around better.

    Comparing this new m43 set up to the T2i + 70-200 would really help you choose.
  7. dav1dz

    dav1dz Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Nov 6, 2012
    1. Keep
    2. Sell
    3. Keep
    4. Sell
    5. Keep
    6. Keep
    7. Sell
    8. Sell

    Wildlife: Rebel T2i + 70-200/4 + 1.4x TC
    Hockey and football: Rebel T2i + 70-200/4
    Natural scenics: E-PL2 + 14-42 II
    Family events (and portraits): E-PL2 + 14-42 II, add 25/1.4 for low light
    Cityscapes, architecture, old buildings: E-PL2 + 14-42 II
    • Like Like x 2
  8. Bokeaji

    Bokeaji Gonzo's Dad O.*

    Aug 6, 2011
    Austin, TX
    i understand the PDAF panic for sports
    i do pretty well with motorcycle racing with my mu43 setup tho
    have you tried one of the longer zooms at a hockey event?
    that would be my first suggestion. try it.

    other than that tid bit of info, i say SELL IT ALL!
    and get some newer mu43 stuff :)  but im a spoiled brat

    whats your budget? i wonder what you could get for everything if you sold... hmmmmmmm

    if i were starting over and doing your type of stuff, id prolly want a em5, but settle for any of the 16mp sensored cameras + viewfinder if its not built in.

    sports and zoo: get one of the X-300 zooms
    landscapes: id want either the o12, p7-14, o9-18, but id settle for the p14 since its so cheap out of a kit on ebay.
    then id be left with either the p25(which i LOVE, its so magical feeling) or the o45... just depending on preference for portrait and family stuff
  9. RobertS

    RobertS Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 28, 2011
    Now we're cookin'. These are the sort of answers that do me the most good. At least lots of food for thought.
    If I sold EVERYTHING, I'm confident I could get between $2000 and $2400.

    dav1dz......thanks for a most precise and economical answer/solution.:smile:
    • Like Like x 2
  10. robertro

    robertro Mu-43 Veteran

    Apr 22, 2010
    If you're shooting hockey in neighborhood arenas, you'll need to shoot fast - last weekend, I shot two games at ISO1600, 1/500 sec, f2. I've been using the 75/1.8 with PM2, and cropping as needed. The biggest obstacle is reduced contrast and distortion from the Plexiglas - many arenas now have nets above the plexi!
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    Yes, I had actually suggested the 75mm/1.8 for indoor sports but for some reason the last paragraph of my post ended up getting cropped off into half a sentence (I've removed the useless half-sentence now to avoid confusion).

    My basic suggestion was to get rid of the Canon gear, both DSLR and P&S in favor of the Lumix X 12-35mm/2.8 and Lumix X 35-100mm/2.8 in order to closer emulate and well exceed what you are currently using (you don't have any fast zooms at the moment, but you will love them!). However, I personally prefer even faster primes for indoor sporting events, and would choose the 75mm/1.8 myself. For youth hockey you shouldn't need so much telephoto reach, but you do need the speed which your f/4 lens is certainly not getting you (especially with a 1.4x teleconverter added, turning it into an f/5.6!).

    It would be nice if we had some teleconverters for our system and even some longer fast lenses... but we're not quite there yet. We will get there eventually, and that is the exact direction which both major contributors are heading towards. For now, the 75mm/1.8 and 35-100mm/2.8 are the cream of the crop for fast telephoto auto lenses. If you can handle yourself with full manual, then your options are limitless.
  12. RobertS

    RobertS Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 28, 2011
    I have had a lot of success with DSLR and my 70-200 f4 "L" lens at ISO 1600, 1/250, f4 to f4.5, roughly 100mm but can use the entire FL. I do a lot of panning, and am getting good at it. So my keeper rate(from a technical standpoint) is almost 100%
  13. robertro

    robertro Mu-43 Veteran

    Apr 22, 2010
    ~100% at 1/250th sounds very impressive!

    I used to shoot a Canon 70-200 L at 2.8 on a 40D, at 1600 and 1/250th, but 1/250 was too slow to catch action like a shot or a goalie catching a puck, so I had to go to 3200 and 1/500th. I am infinitely happier with the PM2 and 75, and the extra depth of field when I do go to 2.8 is a bonus.
  14. Canon (rather old) 1dmarkII + a bunch of quality lenses


    OMD E-M5 with a bunch of quality lenses.

    Shooting moving subjects... no question the 1d Mark II. Its like night and day. Not saying it can't be done. But there are just some systems that are better suited for certain things. I'd say the Canon 5d which is notoriously slow is still better. With that said, I still prefer the OMD E-M5 for just about everything else. Its extremely fast at acquiring focus... just not tracking it.

    In your case, I would probably just pick one system and fully invest in good quality lenses. 12-35/35-100 f/2.8 is what I've chosen recently but I still haven't had much chance to really put them to good use.
  15. dav1dz

    dav1dz Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Nov 6, 2012
    I'm first to preach keeping the money within just one system. It would make the most sense and is in the end the most economical solution.

    Though that 70-200/4, albeit slower than its f2.8 counter part, is a highly capable lens. I would hate for OP to regret selling it later.

    I do think that eventually m4/3 will catch up for fast action shots. It just isn't there at the moment. Why not keep the T2i and 70-200/4 until a capable body is available.
  16. kwalsh

    kwalsh Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    Mar 3, 2012
    Baltimore, MD
    Personally I stopped using Canon APS-C and sold off all my L-glass and have gone 100% with m43.

    There is probably little point in selling your T2i right away. You'd get about $400 used for it now, you'll probably get $200 used for it in two years. The 70-200 will hold its value for a very long time. You could keep that pair while transitioning to m43.

    Yes m43 can shoot sports, but you might still prefer your T2i and 70-200. I don't have experience with the T2i, so I don't know how decent its AF is, but I'll assume it might perform better for sports than most m43 cameras - especially when paired with the 70-200.

    With all that in mind I'd say keep your T2i and 70-200 for now. Sell the 15-85 and the 8mm. Get another lens or two on the m43 side. Your T2i and 70-200 for your sports shooting, m43 for everything else. In not too long you might decide m43 is fine for sports and then the 70-200 and T2i can go as well.

    On the m43 side, you'll want to update to a body with a better sensor than the E-PL2 in not too long. E-PL5, E-M5, G5, GH3 or something coming out this year. Lots to choose from, and some bodies with the newer sensors are dropping in price (G5 especially, though given your current lenses you probably want an Oly with IBIS). You could get the Rok 7.5 to retain your fisheye. If you like buildings a 9-18 or 7-14 would be good eventually. A wide selection of primes depending on what focal length you want.

    For now I might think:

    Rok 8 -> Rok 6.5
    15-85 -> 9-18
    Get a new m43 body sometime this year.

  17. hazwing

    hazwing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Nov 25, 2012
    I pretty much agree with davidz suggestions. The 70-200/4 has a reputation of being a great lens. From what I gather, I don't think the pana 100-300mm or oly 75-300 is as good. The pana 35-100 may be comparable, but it will have slightly less range than the 70-200 on apsc.

    How do you find the autofocus for moving subjects on the t2i? I had the t3i/600d which I believe has the same autofocus, and I found continuous autofocus pretty hit and miss. This may have partly been due to me using sigma lenses. If the continuous autofocus is poor, it does take away one the major points of having a dslr, over a m4/3...
  18. davidzvi

    davidzvi Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 12, 2012
    Outside Boston MA

    The question, define wildlife. Use something like Lightroom or other application to analyze your shot data, lens, aperture, and focal lengths. Unless there is something specific you need the 200mm f4 you might be better off with the 40-150 you have or a 45-200 / 100-300 Panasonic.

    Then add a Panasonic 14mm to replace the pocket size camera and the 45 1.8 for the portraits.

    The 70-200 f4 is not just reputed to be a great lens. Other than the stop advantage the f4 version is rate equal to or better than the the 2.8 version on more than just a few review sites. It's that good. (And this is coming from a Nikon guy :redface:)
  19. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    Yes, that would be because of his panning that he can use a slow a shutter speed. In fact, the slower the better. :) 

    Personally, I have a bad habit of following the ball (puck, or whatever) instinctively when I shoot. The ball always comes out razor sharp for me but if I have too slow a shutter speed then the players get motion blurred. Here's what happens if I shoot at 1/30s... lol (all manual focus):

  20. dav1dz

    dav1dz Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Nov 6, 2012
    Long time Nikon guy here too. Always thought it is a glaring hole in the Nikon lineup not having a slower constant aperture telephoto. They finally put out a 70-200/4 of their own, thank god.
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