My Odd Relationship With M43 (And possibly seeking advice or similar anecdotes).

Feb 23, 2014
Which is kind a funny regarding the fact that during most of the photography history shallow DOF was something that was avoided at all costs and only the result of needing to use faster lenses to be able to shoot film in lower light... an annoyance has turned in to something to lust over.
Yes, and it's sometime already a problem in m43... sometimes you have to shoot wide open and don't get enough DOF.

Yes the PL 25mm 1.4 has beautiful rendering, but certainly not only due to the relative shallow depth of field you can archive.
If you look at comparisons, the Olympus 25 f/1.2 would get more bokeh at f/1.4 than the PL25.
It's funny because the PL25 is far from being a perfect lens (a lot of CA for instance), but sometimes render very nicely... it's not a magic lens, but it certainly has some character.


Mu-43 Top Veteran
Jun 2, 2015
As far as similar anecdotes, when I decided to finally buy into a digital ILC system after decades of 35mm SLRs I looked at Fuji and Oympus and a bit at Sony APS. Canikon or Sony FF were simply out of the question because of the price and DSLRs were much larger than I wanted. The only FF mirrorless was the original Sony A7. Back then there was no IBIS in any APS or FF cameras and nothing like Oly's Live Time and Live Composite.

For less than the price of an A7 body I bought an E-M10, 3 primes, 3 zooms, the "lens cap" fisheye and a flash. I could have bought a midrange Fuji with only one prime and the kit zoom for the same money, but getting the primes and flash would have been another $1000 at the time.

As far as shallow DOF, I used 35mm fixed lens cameras with f3.5 and f2.8 lenses for almost 10 years, then 30 years with an OM-1 and 28/3.5, 50/1.4 and 100/2.8. The m43 45/1.8 comes within spitting distance of the 100/2.8 for shallow DOF and the 25/1.8 is equal to my fixed 50/3.5 and 44/2.8 lenses. I almost never used my 50 wide open because there wasn't enough DOF!!!! So I found m43 good enough for blurred backgrounds and I can even have the entire face in a portrait in focus.


New to Mu-43
Jan 18, 2020
To the OP: Perhaps the first step is to separate oneself from preoccupation with the pursuit of "shallow depth of field" until the concept of Depth Of Field is fully understood. The term is a label for the "zone of acceptable sharpness" and the depth of sharpness or depth of focus is affected by several factors:

1. Aperture (wide tends to provide a shallow zone of acceptable sharpness, small deepens the zone of sharpness).
2. Focal length (short tends to render the image with a deeper appearing zone of acceptable sharpness while longer seems to result in shallower zone of acceptable sharpness).
3. distance from lens to subject (the closer you get the more the zone appears shallower).
4. distance from subject to background elements (the longer this distance is, the easier it becomes to blur background elements).

To control "Depth Of Field" and have the image turn out the way one wants, all four of the above factors may need to be addressed.

Also a long time lurker here, decided to register due to this post.

OP, please listen to this quoted post. Just try it out sometimes and see if it scratches the dof itch you sometimes have with your current gear.

What strikes me a lot about points 2,3, and 4 above is that this is or should be common knowledge for people working with visual media.

20 years back, when filming digital video using digital photocameras was not wide spread, *****every***** video tutorial instructed points 2, 3, and 4 for getting "a blurry background" in video.

Everyone knew it.

Everyone who wanted it, did it.

How in heaven's sake did we get to a point that we now (at least in still media) only focus on sensor size and lens aperture?


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