My Full Frame is Film

eteless

Mu-43 All-Pro
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Jun 20, 2014
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I saw all your recent posts and it motivated me to get off my ass and buy more 35mm film so I could shoot without caring about cost... so I got the cheapest product I could find new - Maco AQS. For a bit over $70 including postage I now have 30 36exp rolls of it.

The first roll was purely a test roll, I found that the film is actually about 1mm wider than what I've previously used and it didn't work in any of my plastic reels. I found this out after I tried to load it in a changing bag (and probably added many scratches for more character?) thankfully I held onto a small stainless tank and reels which worked well.

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It seems like a very high contrast film and I'm thinking I might have to mix up some caffenol to try and tame it, I really need to do more testing just to see how it responds to filters (I have enough to shoot 4 rolls a day for a week, so I have no excuses now...).
 

eteless

Mu-43 All-Pro
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Jun 20, 2014
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Just thought I would add - due to the polyester film you can make a roll with about 70 exposures on it for FF.


...I did this and then realized my stainless spirals can only hold 36 exposures worth of film, so I'll have to cut it in half to develop it.
 

AdamSF

Shutterbugger
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Just thought I would add - due to the polyester film you can make a roll with about 70 exposures on it for FF.


...I did this and then realized my stainless spirals can only hold 36 exposures worth of film, so I'll have to cut it in half to develop it.

I'm looking forward to the results!
 

eteless

Mu-43 All-Pro
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Jun 20, 2014
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1,924
I am a complete idiot. I pulled the power lead out of the scanner at an angle and not by the plug and it took the connector off the end and damaged the fitting, so for now I can't scan...

I've ordered another fitting from Mouser so when it gets here and I have time I'll fix it... Just feeling so stupid right now.
 

eteless

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Jun 20, 2014
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Since I have an awful lot of this film I've been testing different developers and so far the best I've found is Ilford Multigrade. I can't get it to play nice with *any* of the actual film developers I've tried as it just produces stupidly high contrast negs, the highlights are dense and blocked up while the shadows rarely exist at all. Multigrade seems to be the only one which can reliably produce shadow detail (and even then that's at the risk of blowing highlights). using 1:10@7mins, 22c seems to give reliable results @ 400ASA so far, I'm going to try 1:25 or 1:50 next to try and get the same shadow detail while taming the highlights.

These were shot on a 35RC and developed using Multigrade 1:10 @ 7 mins @ 22c. (It was a bracketed roll that I cut up to test different development and these were the only ones which really came out).

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(EI400)

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I loved the detail in the sediment layers with all the roots. (EI400)


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^The highlights (sky/water) were just blown out (EI 200, the 400 bracket was damaged)

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(400)
 

DoofClenas

Who needs a Mirror!
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Clint
Some of the recent keepers from my Mamiya 645 and Velvia 50. Now all I need to do is get a good light meter so I can get more than 5 properly exposed images on a roll ;-)
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WRay

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May 23, 2012
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Southern Calif
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Ray
Two from my Park series. Olympus OM2n, Kodak B&W 400cn

"Watching and Running"
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"Sitting and Thinking"
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And one from my Fuji 645, Ilford XP2

"Whiteout at the Bay of Broken Dreams", Salton Sea
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