My Full Frame is Film

[cedge]

Yashica 24 TLR, Ilford HP5+ 400, HC-110.

Overlooking Axbridge.

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[Arundo Donax]

Nikon FM2n, Nikkor 35mm f/1.4
Delta 100

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[felipegeek]

Kodak BW400CN developed in Rodinal.

Did not know that BW400CN could be developed in a BW film developer since it was designed for C-41 color process. I have a roll of it sitting around but I've only used Cinestill Df96 Monobath so far for various BW films. Will have to do some research on that.

 

[felipegeek]

2020 Manhattan, NYC. Some accidental double exposure shots having loaded the same roll of film twice into the camera spread out by a month or two's time in between.

Shot with Rolleimat F a simple zone focus point and shoot. I think the film was Tri-X developed in Cinestill Df96. Scanned with Epson 3170 using Epson Scan software.

 

[agentlossing]

Did not know that BW400CN could be developed in a BW film developer since it was designed for C-41 color process. I have a roll of it sitting around but I've only used Cinestill Df96 Monobath so far for various BW films. Will have to do some research on that.

You can probably develop it in DF96, I just wanted to try it in Rodinal 1:100 because it's a compensating developer. I didn't know whether 400CN needed any special handling being developed in something other than C41.

Adox Rodinal can be had from B&H or Adorama very inexpensively and can be shipped domestically. Then all you need is a fixer, also quite cheap. Rodinal is a great complementary alternative to DF96 since the latter has a rather short shelf life and the former has an extremely long shelf life.

 

[agentlossing]

Fomapan 100, developed in rodinal 1:50 (I'm thinking I like 1:50 better with this film than the 1:100 semi stand I was trying previously).

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[ex machina]

More scans of prints I made 40+ years ago, processed in my high school and community college darkrooms. Probably a mix of Tri-X and HP5, pretty sure the first and fifth are HP5. Went back and looked at some of the negatives, #1, #4, and #7 are TRI-X, #3 is HP5. My whole world is shaken because for 40 years I was sure that the fireman shot was HP5...

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Uncle Bobby by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

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Vanessa Higginbotham by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

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The Yopp Kids by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

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Fireman by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

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Cynthia by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

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Tim Thornton in the Taylor's garage by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

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Scan 18-Edit by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

 

[Shortsonfire79]

Tried my hand at home development. Was super easy and I saved myself ~$60 (three rolls of 135 and three rolls of 120)! I don't really shoot bw so I only did C41 for now. Trying to wrap up three rolls of bw before I consider doing that home dev myself. The last one shared here is lab dev'd E6.

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Shrooms on a Log by shortsonfire79, on Flickr

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Round Top by shortsonfire79, on Flickr

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210220 Firefall, E100 by shortsonfire79, on Flickr

 

[Brownie]

Tried my hand at home development. Was super easy and I saved myself ~$60 (three rolls of 135 and three rolls of 120)! I don't really shoot bw so I only did C41 for now. Trying to wrap up three rolls of bw before I consider doing that home dev myself. The last one shared here is lab dev'd E6.

View attachment 877472
Shrooms on a Log by shortsonfire79, on Flickr

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Round Top by shortsonfire79, on Flickr

View attachment 877474
210220 Firefall, E100 by shortsonfire79, on Flickr

Nicely done. I went the other way and am doing B&W first. I want to exhaust the liter of DF96 Monobath I have before I try color so it doesn't go bad on the shelf. Which chemicals did you use? I think I'm going to go with Cinestill C41.

 

[ex machina]

Couple more 40+ year old shots, this time scanned from the negatives, shot with a Canon AE-1 and Tri-X. First was a Canon ƒ4 200mm, second was a Canon ƒ1.8 50mm.

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Grandpa Joe by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

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Grandpa Joe by Lewis Francis, on Flickr

 

[Shortsonfire79]

Nicely done. I went the other way and am doing B&W first. I want to exhaust the liter of DF96 Monobath I have before I try color so it doesn't go bad on the shelf. Which chemicals did you use? I think I'm going to go with Cinestill C41.

Yeah a lot of people do BW first. I hear it's easier but C41 was preeeety simple. I also don't tend to shoot BW.

Went with the Cinestill Cs41 kit; it's what my friend who lent me all the gear already had and no longer shoots film. Bought a couple more at a recent $5 sale.

 

[ex machina]

Yeah a lot of people do BW first. I hear it's easier but C41 was preeeety simple. I also don't tend to shoot BW.

Went with the Cinestill Cs41 kit; it's what my friend who lent me all the gear already had and no longer shoots film. Bought a couple more at a recent $5 sale.

Huh, read little bit about the Cinestill kit:

If you already process your own black and white film, with this kit, there is no reason not to process C-41 color negative film at home as well! It is specially formulated without compromise for modern color films, not requiring a stabilizer bath. Modern emulsions were designed so that one-hour photo labs wouldn't need haz-mat training for formaldehyde, and have built-in dye stabilizers and hardeners that are released through this simplified 2-bath process. You can have beautifully developed, bleached and fixed color negatives, ready to scan or print. All you need is water, a thermometer and any simple tank and reel system!​

​

It does look pretty simple, still have to nail the developer temp but after that you should be golden. It didn't use to be this simple, did it? Or maybe it just became more complicated in the printing stage? I seem to remember Cibachrome being the "easy" color processing solutions back in the day...

 

[Brownie]

Huh, read little bit about the Cinestill kit:

If you already process your own black and white film, with this kit, there is no reason not to process C-41 color negative film at home as well! It is specially formulated without compromise for modern color films, not requiring a stabilizer bath. Modern emulsions were designed so that one-hour photo labs wouldn't need haz-mat training for formaldehyde, and have built-in dye stabilizers and hardeners that are released through this simplified 2-bath process. You can have beautifully developed, bleached and fixed color negatives, ready to scan or print. All you need is water, a thermometer and any simple tank and reel system!​

​

It does look pretty simple, still have to nail the developer temp but after that you should be golden. It didn't use to be this simple, did it? Or maybe it just became more complicated in the printing stage? I seem to remember Cibachrome being the "easy" color processing solutions back in the day...

Santa, being the nice guy that he is, brought me a Sous Vide machine for Christmas. This was for the sole purpose of film developing.

 

[Gromit]

The old peri-track at RAF Wellingore (closed in Aug 1945).

Hasselblad 500CM/Zeiss Planar T* 80-2.8/HP5+ at ISO 800

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[felipegeek]

Looks great! I'm also curious about your camera-based "scanning" setup. Have you done any B&W that way? It's most of what I'm shooting currently and suffering the Epson scanner life.

 

[felipegeek]

Still only doing B&W development and mostly only shooting B&W. I have some color rolls that will go to a shop in Greenville, NC after I move at the end of the month. I had only been using Cinestill DF96 but now have LegacyPro's version of Kodak Xtol and Adox's version of Rodinal. While I label the glassine film sleeves I have not been so organized on the scanning side since I recently got a pair of Epson 4990 scanners which replace a less capable 3170 model. Still only using Epson Scan and have not bucked up to buy Vuescan and eventually Negative Lab Pro.


Just my shadow self, lurking..... Sorry not to have film, dev specs. I have to put the film sheets on the light panel and start matching up the stuff I didn't rename after the scan.

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[agentlossing]

Looking good, keep it up! Adonal is really nice stuff, simple and easy to use. I recommend 1:50 solution for general use, it's been working really well for me. 1:25 and 1:100 are my other two solutions, but on general there's no reason not to do 1:50 and call it good. Adonal works great with Foma and Ilford films so far for me.

 

[felipegeek]

Looking good, keep it up! Adonal is really nice stuff, simple and easy to use. I recommend 1:50 solution for general use, it's been working really well for me. 1:25 and 1:100 are my other two solutions, but on general there's no reason not to do 1:50 and call it good. Adonal works great with Foma and Ilford films so far for me.

Thanks for the experience. I've been shooting some Foma 100/400, HP5, Kentmere 100/400, TriX so far and going through couple rolls of long expired Delta 400 and TMax 100. In a Rolleiflex I've shot Foma 400 which did dev and it came out and have Pan F 50 shot, with a roll of Bergger Pancro in it now with HP5 lined up next. I have 4.5 liters of Xtol to use up so I may be leaning on that a lot more for now. The Rodinal will keep longer and I plan to do some semi-stand dev with it. One unopened liter of Df96, Illford Microphen but haven't mixed it up into solution. Perceptol is already in a box at the home I'm moving too in NC. I'm all over the place with this currently

 

[Brownie]

1948 Argus Markfinder on Expired (2 or 3 decades?) Kodak 200. These are low-quality scans from the Darkroom. Once the negatives get here I'll rescan with my setup and see if I can improve them some. Overall though pretty satisfied, this is one of my disassemble and clean experiments. It appears to have survived my tinkering!

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000248750014_429064_1620970820_lg by telecast, on Flickr

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000248750015_429064_1620970822_lg by telecast, on Flickr

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000248750016_429064_1620970823_lg by telecast, on Flickr

 

[Shortsonfire79]

Finally ordered BW chems. Ilford Ilfosol 3 1+14 at 22C for 7.5 min (a tiny bit of push on accident)

Tmax 400 in 135 on the Nikonos III with 35mm f/3.5 lens from my snow backpacking trip the other month. And also one more from my regular boxing group; 1/125 is a wee fast for movement but 1/50 is too slow. Mucked up the zone focus on that wlvf shot, real bummer.

As always, scanned on EM1ii with 60mm f/2.8 macro.

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