Kodak BW400CN developed in Rodinal.
You can probably develop it in DF96, I just wanted to try it in Rodinal 1:100 because it's a compensating developer. I didn't know whether 400CN needed any special handling being developed in something other than C41.Did not know that BW400CN could be developed in a BW film developer since it was designed for C-41 color process. I have a roll of it sitting around but I've only used Cinestill Df96 Monobath so far for various BW films. Will have to do some research on that.
Nicely done. I went the other way and am doing B&W first. I want to exhaust the liter of DF96 Monobath I have before I try color so it doesn't go bad on the shelf. Which chemicals did you use? I think I'm going to go with Cinestill C41.Tried my hand at home development. Was super easy and I saved myself ~$60 (three rolls of 135 and three rolls of 120)! I don't really shoot bw so I only did C41 for now. Trying to wrap up three rolls of bw before I consider doing that home dev myself. The last one shared here is lab dev'd E6.
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Shrooms on a Log by shortsonfire79, on Flickr
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Round Top by shortsonfire79, on Flickr
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210220 Firefall, E100 by shortsonfire79, on Flickr
Nicely done. I went the other way and am doing B&W first. I want to exhaust the liter of DF96 Monobath I have before I try color so it doesn't go bad on the shelf. Which chemicals did you use? I think I'm going to go with Cinestill C41.
Yeah a lot of people do BW first. I hear it's easier but C41 was preeeety simple. I also don't tend to shoot BW.
Went with the Cinestill Cs41 kit; it's what my friend who lent me all the gear already had and no longer shoots film. Bought a couple more at a recent $5 sale.
Santa, being the nice guy that he is, brought me a Sous Vide machine for Christmas. This was for the sole purpose of film developing.Huh, read little bit about the Cinestill kit:
If you already process your own black and white film, with this kit, there is no reason not to process C-41 color negative film at home as well! It is specially formulated without compromise for modern color films, not requiring a stabilizer bath. Modern emulsions were designed so that one-hour photo labs wouldn't need haz-mat training for formaldehyde, and have built-in dye stabilizers and hardeners that are released through this simplified 2-bath process. You can have beautifully developed, bleached and fixed color negatives, ready to scan or print. All you need is water, a thermometer and any simple tank and reel system!It does look pretty simple, still have to nail the developer temp but after that you should be golden. It didn't use to be this simple, did it? Or maybe it just became more complicated in the printing stage? I seem to remember Cibachrome being the "easy" color processing solutions back in the day...
Thanks for the experience. I've been shooting some Foma 100/400, HP5, Kentmere 100/400, TriX so far and going through couple rolls of long expired Delta 400 and TMax 100. In a Rolleiflex I've shot Foma 400 which did dev and it came out and have Pan F 50 shot, with a roll of Bergger Pancro in it now with HP5 lined up next. I have 4.5 liters of Xtol to use up so I may be leaning on that a lot more for now. The Rodinal will keep longer and I plan to do some semi-stand dev with it. One unopened liter of Df96, Illford Microphen but haven't mixed it up into solution. Perceptol is already in a box at the home I'm moving too in NC. I'm all over the place with this currentlyLooking good, keep it up! Adonal is really nice stuff, simple and easy to use. I recommend 1:50 solution for general use, it's been working really well for me. 1:25 and 1:100 are my other two solutions, but on general there's no reason not to do 1:50 and call it good. Adonal works great with Foma and Ilford films so far for me.