Review My EPM1 Review

[sLorenzi]

I'm impressed on how good it looks with the PL25 on. It's one of the best combos I've seen so far.

 

[Jonathan F/2]

I'm loving my E-PM1. It's really the smallest full featured camera on the market.

 

[Art]

I'm loving my E-PM1. It's really the smallest full featured camera on the market.

Me too! And I just found out that it can do time lapse too. Anti-shock operates like built-in intervalometer 1/8s-30s interval, your choice. Diorama video also looks like time lapse

 

[drizek]

I'm loving my E-PM1. It's really the smallest full featured camera on the market.

Is it really smaller htan the Nikon 1s?

The anti shock timer trick applies to a bunch of other m43 cameras.

I havent tried it yet, but peopel say to put a coin and rubber band on the shutter button to hold it down.

I never considered hte practicality of this before, but now that I think about it, it seems like it could actually be usable. A picture every 1/2 minute, and lets say a 300 shot capacity card/battery means you can get 150 minutes of time lapse, or 2 and a half hours. More than enough for something like a sunset or a tide.

I want to try this now.

 

[Art]

Is it really smaller htan the Nikon 1s?

The anti shock timer trick applies to a bunch of other m43 cameras.

I havent tried it yet, but peopel say to put a coin and rubber band on the shutter button to hold it down.

I never considered hte practicality of this before, but now that I think about it, it seems like it could actually be usable. A picture every 1/2 minute, and lets say a 300 shot capacity card/battery means you can get 150 minutes of time lapse, or 2 and a half hours. More than enough for something like a sunset or a tide.

I want to try this now.

I believe it's smaller than Nikon V1.

You can use a remote control w/hold button (can be as little as $5 on ebay). I use wireless shutter remote so no need to use any tricks. I will be doing time lapse of the upcoming christmas dinner. 3 hours in 2 minutes is fun and easy to share with relatives and friends. I did a trial run today at 4s interval, a little too fast. I think 2s is about right for people/indoor activities. I am also trying out diorama art filter in video to see how it compares (looks like time lapse)

 

[judgedavidson]

Many thanks for the review!

The IBIS issue is a major one for me. I am considering changing from a GF1 and IBIS is one of the main reasons (a decent viewfinder, the other).

Does the issue exist on the E-PL3 too? On the E-P3? Or is it solely an issue with the E-PM1?

I hope a firmware fix can do wonders...!

Judge

 

[994]

Not at all on the EP3. Not sure on the EPL3

 

[meyerweb]

I pretty much think that a serious camera needs to have an eye-level finder. But I might actually have considered this camera for one reason: IBIS. It would be a handy feature to have for shooting indoors with non-IS lenses like the 20 /1.7 and 7-14.

But, apparently, IBIS on the E-PM1 can't be relied on. So take the lack of effective image stabilization, and add in the fact that using the rear LCD for composition means you have to hold the camera cantilevered out in front of you (which is NOT the way to hold a camera steady), and I'm better off using a Panasonic with built in EVF.

Yes, I know I can buy an EVF for the Pen, but that's half the cost of the camera itself, which is absurd. And it's still no better for low-light use than a G3 or GH2.

IBIS is the only real thing that might attract me to a Pen, and Oly can't seem to get it right. For me, that's a major FAIL.

 

[994]

Yes, I know I can buy an EVF for the Pen, but that's half the cost of the camera itself, which is absurd.

Then buy an EP3, so the EVF is only 1/4 the cost of the camera

 

[okinana]

I love my E-PM1 but I am seriously considering trading it with my Panasonic 14mm for a PL 25mm f1.4 for now.

 

[994]

I love my E-PM1 but I am seriously considering trading it with my Panasonic 14mm for a PL 25mm f1.4 for now.

If you like the EP3, then that's a pretty tempting target, but I don't think I could personally give up my 14mm pancake (especially since I sold my 20 to get my 25. I've got to have at least one pancake!!)

 

[994]

I believe it's smaller than Nikon V1.

You can use a remote control w/hold button (can be as little as $5 on ebay). I use wireless shutter remote so no need to use any tricks. I will be doing time lapse of the upcoming christmas dinner. 3 hours in 2 minutes is fun and easy to share with relatives and friends. I did a trial run today at 4s interval, a little too fast. I think 2s is about right for people/indoor activities. I am also trying out diorama art filter in video to see how it compares (looks like time lapse)

Thanks everyone for the time-lapse tip. I tried it over this weekend, and it worked like a charm. Now I just need to find a suitable target.

 

[okinana]

If you like the EP3, then that's a pretty tempting target, but I don't think I could personally give up my 14mm pancake (especially since I sold my 20 to get my 25. I've got to have at least one pancake!!)

I can always buy a 14 down the line. I just want that PL 25mm. I gave up my 20mm for the E-PM1.

 

[Luckypenguin]

Thanks for the review. I have a couple of questions which hopefully you may be able to answer about the camera controls.

Can focus assist be assigned to the video button for MF lenses?

Is exposure compensation automatically assigned to the control wheel in P mode?

In A mode, is it possible to press the EV button and adjust the exp comp with the control wheel while the shutter button is half-pressed (i.e. when you focus, recompose, and then need to adjust the exposure up or down)?

 

[994]

Hi Nic. Some answers below:

Can focus assist be assigned to the video button for MF lenses?

Yes.

Is exposure compensation automatically assigned to the control wheel in P mode?

Yes, the default for the control wheel in P is EV, though I think you could also change that.

In A mode, is it possible to press the EV button and adjust the exp comp with the control wheel while the shutter button is half-pressed (i.e. when you focus, recompose, and then need to adjust the exposure up or down)?

'A' mode defaults the wheel to aperture adjust (and in the default position, you can press the 4-way controller UP to access EV). When that happens, you cannot control EV when the shutter is half-pressed. In the gears menu, you can re-assign the wheel to EV in 'A' mode, and then you can adjust EV while holding half-press, though I find that a bit precarious, because the shutter button is a little easy to press.

The gears menu in the EPM1 is just like the other pens (at least just like the EPL2 and EP3), it's just hidden behind the SETUP menu (see the screen shot in my review).

Hope that helps!

 

[Luckypenguin]

'A' mode defaults the wheel to aperture adjust (and in the default position, you can press the 4-way controller UP to access EV). When that happens, you cannot control EV when the shutter is half-pressed. In the gears menu, you can re-assign the wheel to EV in 'A' mode, and then you can adjust EV while holding half-press, though I find that a bit precarious, because the shutter button is a little easy to press.

Thanks! It's a shame about the EV in A mode since I don't think that I would want to remove aperture control directly from the wheel, but it's good that it can be done in P mode. On my E-PL1 I don't think that it's possible to adjust EV once the shutter is half-pressed, but you can on the E-P1, and on the GH1 and GF1 you can click the wheel if need be and then adjust EV. Not a deal-breaker but it's something to think about. I tend to use this feature in lieu of exposure lock.

I saw the E-PM1 the other day at what looked like a reasonable price (for a bricks and mortar store) of $AUS600 which included the 14-42 & VF-3. I don't think that I would keep the viewfinder so I'd have to work out what they sell for second-hand. I didn't get a chance to handle the camera though, which I think would ultimately determine whether the camera would be the right "fit" for me. They do look great in white!

 

[994]

I think handling it is important. It changed my mind on the camera, but it's so small and grip-less, that others might not like it.

 

[Janders]

Hi Luckypenquin,

Yes I saw the same deal at Ted's, but I think a little differently. I would sell the kit lens and keep the VF3. I currently use an EP1 and the lack of VF just does not work for me with long zooms attached. The 17mm and 45mm are okay but anything other is not workable for an old man like me. I actually spent about 45mins playing with the Fuji X10 and the EPM1. I love both and would most likely purchase the aftermarket grip for the EPM1 if I purchased it. The X10 is also a lovely solidly built unit.

I will be departing OS in the next month so I am waiting for the 30 day countdown to obtain another 10% off via customs on the way out. I will more than likely sell the kit zoom and maybe the EP1 if it is worth anything?

Logically I should wait until post 14Dec to hear the news of Oly on the stock exchange, as this may affect the prices further. Time will tell.

 

[battleaxe]

Thank you for the review. Almost make me want to sway to the E-PM1 as my second camera, but the GF2 price with the 14mm is too tempting for wallet.

 

[Art]

Just read the review of E-PM1 at Digital Camera Reviews, Ratings of Digital Cameras & Comparisons of Popular DSLR Cameras - DigitalCamerainfo.com
They came to the same cnclusion regarding AWB.

"...The real source of the E-PM1’s high score came in incandescent lighting, which is often so warm that cameras fail to even come close to adjusting properly on the fly. The E-PM1, however, managed to adjust for tungsten lighting with a color error of just 75 kelvin, far more accurate than almost every camera we’ve tested"

I have never seen any camera come even close to E-PM1's AWB ability indoors and especially under mixed lightning. E-PM1's AWB is simply magical. I don't know how Olympus managed to do it. I have yet to use custom WB with this camera (often have to use presets with E-PL2). IMO, WB is one of the most important settings to get good color.

Interestingly that GF3 has also substantially improved AWB (almost as E-PM1 indoors, 100K vs 75K error). This is a big leap from very poor G3 AWB indoors - insane 513K error (definately my own experience with G3 - way too yellow and some green under mixed lightning). I wonder if both Panasonic and Olympus are now using same AWB sensors for their new cameras (Oly 3rd generation and Pana starting from GF3 and possibly GX1)