It's all your fault.. I just ordered PL25 for my Red EPL3.. we shall see how that looks..but more important is that awesome IQ.. please don't start anymore Threads like this..:smile:One thing I like about the white body and my old silver EP1 vs. my all-black EPL2. The VF2 is rubbing off paint on the hotshoe of the EPL2. No issue with the white or silver bodies, as there's no paint to rub off
But I do think the EPM1 body in black is also super attractive, but since I had an EPL2 in black, I wanted to try a white body. Jonathan -- I see from your other post that you have the opposite: white EPL2 and black EPM1).
I don't think the rattle issue will bother me at all.. I will post some images in the image thread as soon as I can! It should arrive on Tuesday.. very anxious of course.. :smile: ThxMrDoug, you actually held out longer than I thought
Congrats man, it's a great lens. The rattle issue is the only blemish, and for me it's a non-issue, but YMMV. Don't forget to post in the image thread!
One thing that I don't like about the EPM1 is how to operate the flash. It more like manual to me. If I didn't lift the flash up, it won't fire automatically even in Auto mode. It would take sometime for me to get used to."You can actually see the camera, when you point it at a a scene lit by an incandescent light source, show at first that yellow tint, then go “oops” and all the colors correct. Magically. " This didn't happen w/ me. I still got very yellowish tone, even I was in iAuto mode (but no flash on). Do you know how to fix this problem?"
LOL. I think I'm getting some pathological attachment to this camera, kinda like my iphoneJonathan F/2 said:I wonder if all of us hardcore E-PM1 users have our cameras set almost identically? :smile:
Thank you WT21 for great review and sample pic. I just got EPM1 yesterday and had a hard time shooting in incandescent light. BTW, I almost have no background about photography.
One thing that I don't like about the EPM1 is how to operate the flash. It more like manual to me. If I didn't lift the flash up, it won't fire automatically even in Auto mode. It would take sometime for me to get used to.
Also once I'm in SCN or ART mode, if I want to change the scene setting I couldn't do it until I change to other mode e.g. iAuto first then switch back to SCN or ART mode. To explain it furthuer if I already in SCN mode and want to change to different SCN, once I hit menu button then select SCN, the menu wouldn't go into sub-menu. It just exit from mode selection. Anyone has the same experience.
This is a great camera with its price. But I'm still deciding if I should keep it. Any advice on my problems about is really welcome.
Thank you so much for your great advice and super quick reply WT21. That's really help. I don't get that yellowish tone any more. Also thanks for the details instruction on the menu setting.
I will probably need a week or more to get use to the camera and learn how to use it effectively.
Yeah, I wonder why this is on by default? On seems to revert back to the old AWB system while Off allows the new, super-accurate AWB system to shine. You would think Olympus would want people to see this new improvement, lol?Do you mean in incadescent light, the colors are still yellow? In the menu pick, there is an option to "keep warm colors" or something like that. I believe the default is "On" and you want it to be "Off"
Enable the gears menu, then in the gears menu, go to section G "Record Mode/Color/WB" and you'll see "Keep Warm Colors" -- shut that off.
Gotta love Olympus marketing. Just like SCP is not on by default and Gradation was set to Auto by default on previous models making reviewers report huge amount of noise at base ISO.Ned said:Yeah, I wonder why this is on by default? On seems to revert back to the old AWB system while Off allows the new, super-accurate AWB system to shine. You would think Olympus would want people to see this new improvement, lol?