Review My EPM1 Review

MrDoug

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One thing I like about the white body and my old silver EP1 vs. my all-black EPL2. The VF2 is rubbing off paint on the hotshoe of the EPL2. No issue with the white or silver bodies, as there's no paint to rub off :)

But I do think the EPM1 body in black is also super attractive, but since I had an EPL2 in black, I wanted to try a white body. Jonathan -- I see from your other post that you have the opposite: white EPL2 and black EPM1).
It's all your fault.. I just ordered PL25 for my Red EPL3.. we shall see how that looks..but more important is that awesome IQ.. please don't start anymore Threads like this..:smile:
 

WT21

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MrDoug, you actually held out longer than I thought ;)

Congrats man, it's a great lens. The rattle issue is the only blemish, and for me it's a non-issue, but YMMV. Don't forget to post in the image thread!
 

MrDoug

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MrDoug, you actually held out longer than I thought ;)

Congrats man, it's a great lens. The rattle issue is the only blemish, and for me it's a non-issue, but YMMV. Don't forget to post in the image thread!
I don't think the rattle issue will bother me at all.. I will post some images in the image thread as soon as I can! It should arrive on Tuesday.. very anxious of course.. :smile: Thx
 

MrDoug

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by the way.. what is the definiton of YMMV.. I should be able to figure it out, but I can't.. shessh.. I'm kinda like Rick Perry.. LOL
Doug
 

sokar

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Nov 30, 2011
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Have purchased the EPM1 and after several days of fine tuning the buttons etc, I have it working the way I want. Thanks to yourself and Ned I was able to tune the settings to what I had in my EP1. Funny how they lock the button direction in photo mode! Not sure why as this was automatically enabled on the EP1 and had me stumped for a few days until I read a post that Ned had responded too on this site.

I have a FL36R flash and am quite impressed with the power of the clip on flash bundled with the kit. I use 17mm and 45mm Oly primes and I am surprised at how much light the clip on flash can generate with the 45mm lens attached at a reasonable distance in near darkness. This in conjunction with the AF assist lamp has resolved all of my complaints with the EP1 in poor light.

I have set up the video record button as you have in playback mode for quick delete and this works well; the button is out of the way enough not to cause any grief when viewing photos. Auto WB does seem improved also over the EP1.

All in all a great improvement and a further reduction in size to carry around. Without the need for the larger flash unit I now need a smaller carry bag to fit the body, 2 lenses, EVF, clip on flash and pare battery. The whole package will be extremely small and portable and the only times the larger flash will be needed is for FP TTL with a bright background.
 

novice

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Thank you WT21 for great review and sample pic. I just got EPM1 yesterday and had a hard time shooting in incandescent light. BTW, I almost have no background about photography.

WT21:
"You can actually see the camera, when you point it at a a scene lit by an incandescent light source, show at first that yellow tint, then go “oops” and all the colors correct. Magically. " This didn't happen w/ me. I still got very yellowish tone, even I was in iAuto mode (but no flash on). Do you know how to fix this problem?"
One thing that I don't like about the EPM1 is how to operate the flash. It more like manual to me. If I didn't lift the flash up, it won't fire automatically even in Auto mode. It would take sometime for me to get used to.

Also once I'm in SCN or ART mode, if I want to change the scene setting I couldn't do it until I change to other mode e.g. iAuto first then switch back to SCN or ART mode. To explain it furthuer if I already in SCN mode and want to change to different SCN, once I hit menu button then select SCN, the menu wouldn't go into sub-menu. It just exit from mode selection. Anyone has the same experience.

This is a great camera with its price. But I'm still deciding if I should keep it. Any advice on my problems about is really welcome.
 

crsnydertx

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To change selection within SCN or ART mode, press OK button in center of dial. Choices should pop up just as they do when you first select the mode.
 

Art

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Jonathan F/2 said:
I wonder if all of us hardcore E-PM1 users have our cameras set almost identically? :smile:
LOL. I think I'm getting some pathological attachment to this camera, kinda like my iphone:)
 

WT21

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Do you mean in incadescent light, the colors are still yellow? In the menu pick, there is an option to "keep warm colors" or something like that. I believe the default is "On" and you want it to be "Off"

Enable the gears menu, then in the gears menu, go to section G "Record Mode/Color/WB" and you'll see "Keep Warm Colors" -- shut that off.

Gears menu is enabled from the menu option, from the wrench on the left hand side, then select "Menu Display" with the gears icon, and set to "On"

One thing about all Oly m43 cameras -- they are HIGHLY customizable and very powerful, but it takes a bit of a learning curve to learn the menus.

Another thing you should do is enable Super Control Panel (or SCP). From the SCP you can turn on and off the ART modes from the OK/Set button.

Turn on the SCP from the D Menu "Disp/Beep/PC" the "Control Setting" then under each iAuto, PASM and Art and SCN, turn on the SCP panel. While you are there, turn off Live Control, which is a waste, and even turn off Live Guide, IMO. Once you have that on, go back to live view shooting mode, and press the OK button to turn on the SCP. Use the four way controller to navigate around the SCP, and make adjustments.

This Oly page talks about the EPL1, but it also applies to the EPM1 E-PL1 &gt Frequently Asked Questions



Thank you WT21 for great review and sample pic. I just got EPM1 yesterday and had a hard time shooting in incandescent light. BTW, I almost have no background about photography.

WT21:

One thing that I don't like about the EPM1 is how to operate the flash. It more like manual to me. If I didn't lift the flash up, it won't fire automatically even in Auto mode. It would take sometime for me to get used to.

Also once I'm in SCN or ART mode, if I want to change the scene setting I couldn't do it until I change to other mode e.g. iAuto first then switch back to SCN or ART mode. To explain it furthuer if I already in SCN mode and want to change to different SCN, once I hit menu button then select SCN, the menu wouldn't go into sub-menu. It just exit from mode selection. Anyone has the same experience.

This is a great camera with its price. But I'm still deciding if I should keep it. Any advice on my problems about is really welcome.
 

novice

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Thank you so much for your great advice and super quick reply WT21. That's really help. I don't get that yellowish tone any more:biggrin:. Also thanks for the details instruction on the menu setting. :2thumbs:

I will probably need a week or more to get use to the camera and learn how to use it effectively.

Happy Holidays!!!
 

WT21

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Thank you so much for your great advice and super quick reply WT21. That's really help. I don't get that yellowish tone any more:biggrin:. Also thanks for the details instruction on the menu setting. :2thumbs:

I will probably need a week or more to get use to the camera and learn how to use it effectively.

Happy Holidays!!!

No problem, and blessings on you and yours.

I forgot to mention on the flash. When holding the camera. my left hand pinkie tilts the flash up and down (on and off) as needed. It's easier than a button press or menu choice, IMO.
 

taran

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Oct 19, 2011
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I don't know how you all are getting all metal E-PM1's. My E-PM1 is quite clearly anodized colored metal on the front, with a plastic back. This can be tested via putting the camera in the fridge for a few seconds. The front will be cold to the touch, the rear is not, indicating a conductive front side, with a resin rear. Same as on my E-PL3, which people also seem to think is all metal.
 

WT21

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Open up the batter compartment and look at the rim of the front and back plates. Mine are way too rounded and thin to be plastic. The front and back also have the same thermal feel to them (I've shot outside in the cold, and they both feel the same -- like metal).

I am sure this is not a super-sturdy construction, but neither my front plate nor my back plate seem to be plastic, though of what kind of metal they are, I wouldn't know.

Quick question -- what color is your body? No idea if that would impact things. Mine is white.
 

Ned

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Do you mean in incadescent light, the colors are still yellow? In the menu pick, there is an option to "keep warm colors" or something like that. I believe the default is "On" and you want it to be "Off"

Enable the gears menu, then in the gears menu, go to section G "Record Mode/Color/WB" and you'll see "Keep Warm Colors" -- shut that off.
Yeah, I wonder why this is on by default? On seems to revert back to the old AWB system while Off allows the new, super-accurate AWB system to shine. You would think Olympus would want people to see this new improvement, lol?
 

Art

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Ned said:
Yeah, I wonder why this is on by default? On seems to revert back to the old AWB system while Off allows the new, super-accurate AWB system to shine. You would think Olympus would want people to see this new improvement, lol?
Gotta love Olympus marketing. Just like SCP is not on by default and Gradation was set to Auto by default on previous models making reviewers report huge amount of noise at base ISO.
By the way in iA mode you can't turn "keep WB warm" off.
 
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