Moving up to more than one flash.

VSTR61

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I've avoided using flash my whole life. Mainly because I couldn't afford an off camera set-up when I was younger and lately because it just seems like too much work. However, 'er indoors would like more photos of our large extended family and this job has been foisted upon me. Rather than spending silly money on a pro studio kit I'm thinking that something small and portable (battery powered) might be a better option.

I can pick up a couple of Godox AD200's at a really good price along with the twin bulb AD-B2 Flash head for softbox. I think this would be a versatile kit for what I have in mind; some outdoor, some indoor, and the ability to use as one powerful unit or two separate lights. My current speedlights could then be used as slaves for fills or hair lights.

Does anyone see any flaws in my plan or is there another option I've missed?
 

CyVan

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I've avoided using flash my whole life. Mainly because I couldn't afford an off camera set-up when I was younger and lately because it just seems like too much work. However, 'er indoors would like more photos of our large extended family and this job has been foisted upon me. Rather than spending silly money on a pro studio kit I'm thinking that something small and portable (battery powered) might be a better option.

I can pick up a couple of Godox AD200's at a really good price along with the twin bulb AD-B2 Flash head for softbox. I think this would be a versatile kit for what I have in mind; some outdoor, some indoor, and the ability to use as one powerful unit or two separate lights. My current speedlights could then be used as slaves for fills or hair lights.

Does anyone see any flaws in my plan or is there another option I've missed?
I agree. Seems like overkill. What speedlights do you have right now? You only need the power of dual AD200's or even a single AD200 if you're planning on shooting primes wide open outdoors in the sun and need HSS.

For indoor use 2 Godox TT600's or TT685's in umbrella's would be enough to light up a room.
 

VSTR61

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I have a TT350 and a Canon 580exII left over from my full frame days. I can kind of make them work but not in the way I want. The big one is fairly grunty but only good as a slave. I have a empty 6m x 5m room that will be re-purposed and the TT685's are as cheap as chips so a couple of them would cover my indoors. *I've just checked and they are ridiculously priced. I'm going to grab a couple.

I would also like to shoot larger outdoors, small groups, and environmental portraits. This isn't just head shots, I want full body and surroundings, maybe some of the kids in action too? And yes, I would desperately like to use HSS outdoors. Besides, 200WS doesn't have to be used at full power all the time. It's just nice to have if you need it. If the 2 x TT685's don't cut it, the AD200's are also cheap at the moment!
 

CyVan

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I have a TT350 and a Canon 580exII left over from my full frame days. I can kind of make them work but not in the way I want. The big one is fairly grunty but only good as a slave. I have a empty 6m x 5m room that will be re-purposed and the TT685's are as cheap as chips so a couple of them would cover my indoors. *I've just checked and they are ridiculously priced. I'm going to grab a couple.

I would also like to shoot larger outdoors, small groups, and environmental portraits. This isn't just head shots, I want full body and surroundings, maybe some of the kids in action too? And yes, I would desperately like to use HSS outdoors. Besides, 200WS doesn't have to be used at full power all the time. It's just nice to have if you need it. If the 2 x TT685's don't cut it, the AD200's are also cheap at the moment!
Oh ok . With the clarification of what you plan to do outdoors then yes, the AD200's would be great. You only really need one TT685 for on-camera TTL. You could get away with the manual TT600's for additional lights. Also look into getting their Li-Ion equivalents V850/860II instead.
 

VSTR61

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Thanks.

Godox have a large range and I'm struggling to understand how it all relates to each other. Time to do more research as I would love to cut my reliance on AA batteries.
 

Repp

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You’ll always have to keep some AAs for the triggers, but go Li-ion versions for everything else that you can. It’s been a liberating experience
 

CyVan

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GODOX & FLASHPOINT – 2.4GHz Flash System Overview | FLASH HAVOC

That should explain most of it. The most confusing part tends to be the speedlights. The Vxxx are just the li-ion versions of the TTxxx
so :
Tiny TTL Flash TT350 -> V350
Regular Manual Flash TT600 -> V850,
Regular TTL Flash TT685 -> V860II

Strobes, much simpler after that because it's just straight power:
AD200, AD400 Pro, AD600, AD600 Pro

And the relevant triggers which control everything:
X1T, XPro, XPro II

Everything listed here is compatible with each other. Just make sure u buy the 'O' version for whatever is going to physically sit on your camera so u can get TTL.

I've left out the extraneous legacy stuff like the AD360, 433Mhz radio system and the AC strobes.

Also don't buy the more expensive stuff off Amazon or Ebay , go with a reputable dealer like MoLight, Adorama (Flashpoint R2 system) , B&H etc. Godox doesn't have good support but find a reputable dealer that does either locally or internationally.
 

VSTR61

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Awesome, thanks, and that explains everything.

I've been looking at the V860IIo. A couple of those should keep me interested at a very good price.

Just need a smart modifier or two. Nothing too cheap as I'm looking for durability and speedy set-up. Too cheeky to ask for recommendations?
 

CyVan

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Awesome, thanks, and that explains everything.

I've been looking at the V860IIo. A couple of those should keep me interested at a very good price.

Just need a smart modifier or two. Nothing too cheap as I'm looking for durability and speedy set-up. Too cheeky to ask for recommendations?
I don't even think u need multiple V860's esp with the XPro Trigger. Just get 1 to be the TTL key light , fire it, then use TCM (TTL Controlled Manual) to convert the settings to manual and set the power ratio for your fill/rim lights which can be the cheaper V850 manual lights. You could go all TTL but u tend to have much more consistency with manual anyway so going all TTL would not be necessary.

Godox has really made lighting much more achievable.

I'll defer modifier recommendations to someone else. But I use simple 45" and 60" umbrellas from Amazon if it's not windy and the cheap godox collapsible 32" and 47" softboxes if it is, with good results.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


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AD200 Key , TT350 Rim.
 

VSTR61

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Now that's what I'm talking about and almost exactly what I'm after! Great photo that looks like a lot of fun to take. Let's see if all our nieces and nephews can smile like that for Uncle Flash?

Thanks again.
 

Repp

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Modifier choice can be very personal. Lots of people recommend starting with umbrellas... I’ve thrown all but one of mine away, stupid buggers are horrible for control. Here are some of the ones I keep using:

Roundflash Dish
Softlighter 2
24x24” fold up softbox (newer, cactus, Godox, etc)
Magmod system
Chetahstad QSB 26”

Also recently got the magbox, so will hopefully be playing around with it soon soon.
 

ac12

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About your room.
  • Walls: Either paint the walls black or dark gray (flat paint) or install black curtains. This minimizes unwanted reflections off the wall, so that YOU are in control of the lighting.
    • Trick - Paint the back wall WHITE. This lets you hit the back wall with a flash, and make a HUGE soft light source :)
      But you will need a black curtain to cover the wall, when you don't want to do that, or you could get unwanted reflection.
  • Windows: You need to be able to temporarily black out the windows, so YOU can control the lighting.
    • A LOT of good pics have been made with window lighting. So consider using the window in your design.
  • Ceiling: I would go dark gray or black, again to minimize unwanted reflections.
  • Floor: Is tough, because once down, that is it. You want durable and neutral in color. And NOT carpet, you need a solid floor for your lightstands.
    • You can put down a colored sheet, to change the color and look of the floor.
Umbrellas were the standard hobbyist entry point, because softboxes were EXPENSIVE, in comparison.
The Chinese softboxes have made softboxes affordable to us hobbyists.

Unless you have the space to keep the softboxes assembled, I would seriously look at the EASY collapseable softboxes. Some of the old softboxes were a PiA to assemble/dissassemble, for us who could not keep them assembled.
I plan to replace my softboxes with the easy open/close softboxes, to make storage easier.

Warning, unless you have a TALL ceiling and plenty of space, stay away from the BIG umbrellas.
They leave very little room to adjust vertically before you hit the floor or ceiling, and horizontally they take up a LOT of space. The issue is that the horizontal space it takes up, makes it difficult for people to walk around the studio. This is especially important with active kids around :eek:

POWER
You NEED to study the power requirement of your flash units, and then study the room and electrical circuit that powers it.
Depending on the type and number of flash units, you may need to have an electrician bring in another circuit or two.
Caution, you do NOT want to have extension cords running around the room (tripping hazard), so planning the placement of circuits and outlets is important.

gud luk
 

VSTR61

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My main worry and an excuse to keep things small is that the ceilings at home aren't exactly high. On the upside, I have access to a huge, industrial workshop with incredible light inside. It's relatively clean in my area and if I need large props like machinery, it's there.
 

rich.smith

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My main worry and an excuse to keep things small is that the ceilings at home aren't exactly high. On the upside, I have access to a huge, industrial workshop with incredible light inside. It's relatively clean in my area and if I need large props like machinery, it's there.
Not sure how long this is available for but Adorama has a $50 instant rebate on the Flashpoint Zoom Li-ion R2. It is the equivalent of the Godox V860II-O.

https://www.adorama.com/fplfsmzl2o.html

Looks like a way to save $100 if you want two.
 

Michael Meissner

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And they have an 'open box' order for the smaller flash (TT350O) for $59, which is normally $85. Mine was delivered to my PO box this morning. If you don't want to put one of the flashes on the camera to act as the transmitter, you can use the basic transmitter for $46. There is a mark II of the basic transmitter coming out. I don't know what is in the mark II version:
 

inkista

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Not sure how long this is available for but Adorama has a $50 instant rebate on the Flashpoint Zoom Li-ion R2. It is the equivalent of the Godox V860II-O.

https://www.adorama.com/fplfsmzl2o.html

Looks like a way to save $100 if you want two.
Probable reason for the discount is that the Godox V1 (aka Flashpoint R2 X) has been seen in the wild, and is probably going to be released soonish. :)

https://www.adorama.com/fplfsmzlxo.html

Pretty much the same power, color consistency, battery life as the V860II, but the addition of the round head (for the same magnetic modifiers the AD200's round head uses), modeling lamp, LED AF assist, auto-setting channels to least-crowded frequency, and better radio master UI--not to mention half the recycling time--might be of interest.

Robert Hall's overview here:


From the Bonus Points, we're assuming it'll be $249. :)

Just me, but as a 580EXII owner/user, I can state categorically my TT685-C is almost exactly the same size/shape/weight/power as the 580EXII, and a completely acceptable backup unit for it, especially as it will do Canon's smart optical stuff, down to the TTL group ratios. It's also been a very good TTL/HSS radio slave to my XPro-O on my GX7 (but I do get the HSS banding at lower power settings). And it's hard to beat the price of a $65 TT600 for multiple-light setups if you don't need TTL. :D
 
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