Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by PSimmons, Dec 4, 2011.
Spent some time with the new glass in the beautiful wetlands of Central Florida:
In praise of the Canon Fd 400mm f4.5
I loved using this lens on my G1
A red-tailed hawk
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gscara/3512285572/" title="Red-Tailed Hawk by gscara, on Flickr">"640" height="428" alt="Red-Tailed Hawk"></a>
A female blackbird in bullrushes
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gscara/3537346841/" title="Elevator Going Up or Down? by gscara, on Flickr">"500" height="334" alt="Elevator Going Up or Down?"></a>
wow.. the first pic is stunning. nice set!
Nice shots! What settings are you using? Makes me want to mount my Nikon 300 f/4 to my E-PL2!
Wow, great shots! It just shows that old glass can still produce. I use my EF 400mm f5.6L on my Gf1 and it's great fun.
Don't really want to imagine the size of this lens. 400/3.5 The front element must be larger than 10cm in diameter.
Can you clarify which Canon FD lens it is? I've seen Canon 400mm's in a 2.8, a 4.5 and a 5.6. They have a 500mm f3.5. Just curious for my own knowledge.
Wow, great lens and great images!
Correction, title of post should've been FD 400mm 4.5, sorry about the confusion
Wow, pheonomenal!! I find red tails to be very skittish!!
Very sharp and nice bokeh!
How difficult is manual focus for wildlife?
There's definitely a learning curve but EVF2 makes it a lot easier.
Here are a few more from yesterday:
Manual Focus for Wildlife
I use manual focus lenses for all my wildlife shooting knowing their limitations. For certain situations, most birds in flight for instance, it is very difficult if not impossible to get satisfactory results. However, most bird and wildlife shots are stationary targets. Songbirds are beautiful up close, but don't make good subjects when in flight. Eagles and Ospreys are beautiful when caught in flight, but not so noteworthy when shot stationary. You have to know your target and its habits.
This kestrel was flying into a strong head wind and was virtually motionless in the air. Shot using a Canon FD 300mm f2.8 lens with 1.4X extender and a tripod on my G1. Moral of the story, get out when the winds are blowing.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gscara/5337270033/" title="American Kestrel by gscara, on Flickr">"1024" height="768" alt="American Kestrel"></a>
This Osprey was hovering, handheld with the 300mm f4 Canon Fd lens and 1.4 X extender using Pentax K10D. Ospreys and other eagles will become almost motionless when they spy prey.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gscara/3799622125/" title="Osprey by gscara, on Flickr">"1024" height="685" alt="Osprey"></a>
The most difficult aspect of wildlife shooting is getting close enough to the birds/animals without spooking them and this applies equally to both manual and automatic lenses. You need to get close to their food source. The best shooters rely on blinds and hides where you have to sit almost motionless for hours waiting for the opportunity to arise. In addition, you must use monopods and tripods which are clumsy and bulky to set-up and transport. You have to move from a 'grab-shot' mentality to a 'planned shot' approach. In this planned approach you recognize that songbirds, for example, approach from a certain direction, land on specific branches, and then move to their food source.
This Song Sparrow was moving toward a feeding station and came within 9 feet of me. Canon FD 300mm f2.8 with 1.4X extender on G1.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gscara/5580394269/" title="Hear Ye, Hear Ye... by gscara, on Flickr">"1024" height="768" alt="Hear Ye, Hear Ye..."></a>
Finally, your lens must be sharp wide open (high shutter speeds rules) and must have a fast, internal focus mechanism. The Canon 400mm f4.5 was the first Canon lens to have internal focusing but lacked special glass. If you have a traditional lens, where focusing relies on ratcheting out the front lens groups, you might as well give up as you will never focus fast enough for most situations. Sharpness requires that your lens uses ED, UD or special lens elements which are just not available for most older manual focus lenses. The Canon Fd L lenses, the 400mm f4.5, and the Nikkor Ed-if lenses all meet these requirements. While the Tokina SD/ATX lenses meet them, they are still prone to high purple fringing and CA, and must be used at f8 to get decent results.
This Sandpiper ran within 10 feet of me as I remained motionless on the beach, shot using Canon FD 300mm F4L on monopod. When these birds first arrive on their migration, they seem to be far more tolerant of people. After a week or two, you are lucky to get within 50 feet of them.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gscara/5216615464/" title="Sandpiper running across breaking wave by gscara, on Flickr">"1024" height="768" alt="Sandpiper running across breaking wave"></a>
At the end of the day, get out there and have fun practicing. The micro 4/3 bodies are great for wildlife with their 2X multiplier, exposure control is excellent, and after a while you will just know when your subject is in focus (hint, always look at the animals/birds eyes).
I just ordered a Nikon "400mm / 3.5" from KEH (it's in the mail) and
depending on condition (bargain) it may be replacing my Canon 300.
We shall see......
I have an EM-1 and are looking for legacy glass. How would you rate the quality of the optics compared to your Olympus lenses? If you focus correctly, is it sharp enough? I like your pictures but since they are reduced in size it´s hard to tell ... Do you have to work a lot with the files? Are those shots taken wide open? What about color fringing? I bought a Tokina 400 mm a few years back since I had fond memories of it when I used a Contax 167 MT while shooting film years ago. That lens is too soft on the EM-1.
I really think this canon 400 f4,5 lens is a bargain if you recommend it!
Bought a 400 f4.5 from Japan yesterday via Ebay in what was described as excellent + condition for $280 and an adapter. exiting times are ahead!
You should, I have the earlier version of the 300mm f4 and it's a brilliant lens.
I just got my 400 mm lens from ebay. I have one problem though, the appertur-ring does not seem to work. It was sold as fully functioning but it isnt. Is there a trich to get the apperture to work? I tried setting it inAuto-position and unlock it from that but still, as the apperturering is turned to different values the actual apperture inside the lens does not budge. Please, tell me if there is anything to do, otherwise I'll return the lens and get at refund.
Do you have an adapter mounted and mountwd properly? FD lenses won't operate without one attached.
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