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Moonshot

Discussion in 'Scenic, Architecture, and Travel' started by MarkoPolo, Feb 13, 2014.

  1. MarkoPolo

    MarkoPolo Mu-43 Regular

    141
    Jan 25, 2014
    Greeley, CO
    Mark Brown
    I am a new member here and want to introduce myself with a shot I took tonight with the EM-1 using the Bower EOS to m4/3rds adapter. The lens is the Canon 400 mm f/5.6 L and 2X III TC hand held.This is about a 40% square crop. Just amazed at how well the IBIS works. I can't imagine handholding 1600mm in the full frame format! I hope to get out and shoot this spring and contribute more.
    Mark

    _2130643.
     
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  2. MizOre

    MizOre Mu-43 Veteran

    201
    Dec 26, 2011
    Shot with a 100-300mm Panasonic lens on a GF1, lens stablization on, handheld (propped against something, I think, EVF on. My personal best moon shot ever was with a Nikon D300 with a Nikon 400mm f/5.6 manual focus lens on a tripod. I want to try the M43rds again with a tripod.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. EileenSeattle

    EileenSeattle New to Mu-43

    8
    Feb 14, 2014
    So high iso is better for moon shots then lower iso?
     
  4. uci2ci

    uci2ci Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 22, 2012
    Los Angeles, CA
    Sam
    Lower the better. Ive always been able to get good images using iso 200.

     
  5. uci2ci

    uci2ci Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 22, 2012
    Los Angeles, CA
    Sam
    MarkoPolo, I think you should be able to get a MUCH clearer image of the moon with your setup. What f-stop, shutter speed, ISO are you using? Maybe the adapter is not focusing to infinity, as is the case sometimes. You might want to do some more post-processing on it too.

    As a reference, this was taken using an old non-L Canon FD 400mm and a cheap 2x TC. Granted, it wasn't handheld:

    9559794615_38fa3c0f9b_b.
     
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  6. WhidbeyLVR

    WhidbeyLVR Mu-43 Top Veteran

    612
    Feb 14, 2014
    Whidbey Island
    Lyle
    Using the Oly 75-300, and stacking a few photos in Hugin, I shot this image last week. I'm not convinced the image stacking was worthwhile. It does reduce noise, but makes the image softer, too. I live at sea level on an island, and I can see the thick, cold marine air rippling the details of the moon in the preview. I used ISO 800 to keep the shutter speed faster than 1/500. I was using an old crappy tripod.

    I intend to try processing a single "best" photo from this session for comparison, but I haven't made the time yet. Maybe this weekend.

    12379483373_36b79a485e_z.
    Half Moon by Whidbey LVR, on Flickr
     
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  7. MizOre

    MizOre Mu-43 Veteran

    201
    Dec 26, 2011
    Basically, f/6.2, shutter speed around 1/400 (I'll try faster), ISO 200, camera on manual (it will try to expose for the whole sky and will get the moon wildly over exposed). Better on a tripod. I'm at 1,000 meters but in the tropics. The moon moves, so if the shutter speed isn't fast enough, you'll get motion blur on top of handholding blur. Lock the ISO at 100 or 200 and don't let the camera make any decisions except maybe focus (harder to touch up focus when handholding).
     
  8. chonbhoy

    chonbhoy Mu-43 Veteran

    430
    Apr 23, 2013
    Scottish Highlands
    Love the detail in your moon shot, wow it really is an old battered piece of rock!
     
  9. biomed

    biomed Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 22, 2013
    Seattle area
    Mike
    DMC-GX7, Nikkor 300/4.5 Ai f/5.6, 1/160, ISO 200

    11284175676_66f9d1eae9_b.
     
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  10. MarkoPolo

    MarkoPolo Mu-43 Regular

    141
    Jan 25, 2014
    Greeley, CO
    Mark Brown
    Thanks everyone for the replies. Some great shots there. Sam yours really stands out. I was using manual...so the f stop is what you get when using an adapter with the 400 f.5.6....not sure if that stops it down any...and I had the variable aperture at the 4 setting on the Bower. ISO is 200. I reworked this to add more contrast and it may be improved. Looking at it now I wonder if my focus is a little too deep. I will try again tonight!!
     

    Attached Files:

  11. WhidbeyLVR

    WhidbeyLVR Mu-43 Top Veteran

    612
    Feb 14, 2014
    Whidbey Island
    Lyle
    I tried processing the best single photo from last week's session, and the results were about as I expected. Very slightly sharper, and a bit noisier. The differences in quality are pretty fairly subtle, even when side-by-side. When overlaid, the subtle air-current distortions are much more apparent than the sharpness differences.

    P2073067B.
     
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  12. MarkoPolo

    MarkoPolo Mu-43 Regular

    141
    Jan 25, 2014
    Greeley, CO
    Mark Brown
    Here is tonight's effort. I did use a tripod and the 12 sec timer, I don't have remote shutter yet. Again the EM-1 with the Canon 400L f/5.6 and 2.0 TC III. The aperture ring on the Bower adapter was at 5, ISO 200 and about 1/80th sec. The second one is the crop of the first.

    _2140669.

    _2140669-2.
     
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  13. MarkoPolo

    MarkoPolo Mu-43 Regular

    141
    Jan 25, 2014
    Greeley, CO
    Mark Brown
    Well, I'm nothing if not stubborn. Was going to try again tonight but it is too cloudy. So, I re-worked one of last nights images. This time I went to my big boy computer instead of trying to do it on my laptop and was able to use smart sharpen and the Imagenomic noiseware pro in PS 6 to improve it some more (I hope!!). Please chime in on tips and tricks to do this better. I wonder about Oly in camera sharpening settings and perhaps other things I might do. I feel this camera and lens ought to do better than I am getting. Next clear sky I get I will try without the teleconverter and see if that might help. Thanks for looking....and thanks for any constructive criticism.

    WMB-2014 (1 of 1).
     
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  14. MarkoPolo

    MarkoPolo Mu-43 Regular

    141
    Jan 25, 2014
    Greeley, CO
    Mark Brown
    Can't quite playing around with this: I think it looks better-did some shadow highlights in PS and reduced chromatic aberrations and converted to B & W. Except for blown highlights that I couldn't remove, I do think it looks better.

    WMB-2014 (1 of 1)-2.
     
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  15. uci2ci

    uci2ci Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 22, 2012
    Los Angeles, CA
    Sam
    Now these look much much better Mark!

    I can tell that you didn't even sharpen it by much. I'm somewhat heavy handed with sharpening in PP. I would personally sharpen it more, then apply some noise reduction. If you have the patience, try sharpening the whole image globally, then use the "wand" tool to apply noise reduction locally in areas where noise is apparent (or NR first then sharpen with wand). I would also convert the image to B&W to get rid of the green and blue fringing.

    Don't rely on Olys shapening settings for these kind of images....shoot RAW and do the sharpening yourself in PP.
     
  16. uci2ci

    uci2ci Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 22, 2012
    Los Angeles, CA
    Sam
    Looks like you beat me to the punch with the B&W and CA ;)

    Looks great Doc
     
  17. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Really interesting looking at the progression of PP results. Thanks for sharing!
     
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  18. MizOre

    MizOre Mu-43 Veteran

    201
    Dec 26, 2011
    You're shooting something that is reflecting the full sun -- f 11 and 1/ISO number for the shutter speed, and maybe faster since sunny 16 isn't aimed directly at the sun or even a good rocky reflector. Adjust to suit, but not slower than 1/100 at ISO 100. I'd try faster shutter speeds.

    http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Full_moon.png is a decent index photo shot in space. Large sized version here: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e2/Full_moon.png

    Nothing shot through atmosphere will be as good as the full sized version, but that does give you a sense of what the features at best focus will look like.
     
  19. chonbhoy

    chonbhoy Mu-43 Veteran

    430
    Apr 23, 2013
    Scottish Highlands
    Full moons are harder to get details out of due to the sun being face on just like a flash in your subjects face, it looks like it's mainly out of focus? Try shutter shock on a delay, tripod mounted with IS off, shoot RAW and try no smaller than f8 because diffraction will soften images quite drastically for each stop after f8 on m43.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  20. -De-

    -De- New to Mu-43

    2
    Jul 30, 2012
    This is my first post.
    Too much editing, but it is still in focus. It was shot with tripod, remote and f11.
    IMG_01631.JPG
     
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