Moon with 4/3 40-150mm

Discussion in 'Nature' started by Djarum, May 24, 2010.

  1. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason
    The UPS man delivered a new toy over the weekend, so I thought I'd try it out on the moon.

    moon_scale.
    moon_crop.JPG

    As you can see from the crop, the image looks just a tad soft. There was high humidity and some few thin clouds showing a glow around the moon. I'm not sure if it was this, focus error, or vibration on the tripod.

    I actually found taking this shot to be more difficult than with my old panny superzoom. The AF will not focus properly, first off. I don't know if it is this lens or if the subject is that difficult for the camera. The other issue is, when in manual focus, the MF assist does not show, when in Manual exposure mode, the image at the set exposure if outside of the -3 to +3 EV range of the metered exposure.

    This is really a bummer because when trying to manually focus, the camera shows the moon as a bright blob, even though my manual settings of f6.3 and shutter speed at 1/100s properly exposes the moon. I was finally able to trick the camera by keeping the moon in the center and changing the metering to center spot. The problem with this is, at 150mm, the moon drifts through the view, slowly, outside of the metering zone, and can still cause the moon to blow out.

    I thought just setting the focus to infinity would be enough, but the sharpest image was just slightly before infinity.

    What I currently already knew when doing the moon:

    - Turn IS off
    - Put the camera on a tripod
    - use a tether or timed shutter release
    - manual focus
    - manual exposure
    - ISO 100

    Issues with the EP1

    -live view only shows set exposure between -3 to +3 EV when manually focusing
    - because the moon is so bright but all the black forces the metering to a higher exposure level in the -3 to +3 EV range blows the moon out, so manually focusing is impossible.
    -Set metering to spot. The brightness of the moon forces the metering to reduce the exposure so manually focusing becomes possible(but still difficult. Once the moon is outside the spot focus area, the moon now becomes over exposed in live view focusing.

    -
     
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  2. hmpws

    hmpws Mu-43 Regular

    177
    Apr 24, 2010
    Auckland, New Zealand
    yeah, I agree the moon is a high subject to take.. I will be interested in hearing other people's experiences as well
     
  3. Bokeh Diem

    Bokeh Diem Mu-43 Top Veteran

    655
    Mar 14, 2010
    Toronto
  4. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason

    I've never been wild about teleconverters, but that is a nice shot.

    The reason why its easier to get that sort of shot when it is day light, at least for me, with a PEN, is that I don't have to worry about the metering taking in all the black and trying to blow out the moon when trying to manually focus. I have a few daytime pics as well, I just prefer the moon against a velvet black sky:biggrin:(This is the astronomer coming out).

    I hope to be getting in a few weeks an adapter that will allow me to hook the PEN up to my Antares f6 refractor. Its no APO, but it will be interesting to see what the results are like.
     
  5. PeterB666

    PeterB666 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    780
    Jan 14, 2010
    Tura Beach, Australia
    Peter
    The best shots of the Moon I have taken were with my Panasonic 45-200 zoom.

    I have an Olympus 200mm f/4 but it isn't as sharp as the Panasonic lens. I tried it with a 7-element teleconverter and it was just crap.
     
  6. Grant

    Grant Mu-43 Veteran

    Most people tend to over expose the moon. The easiest way to expose for the moon is to use the Sunny 16 rule. When you think of it the moon is directly light by the sun. There will may be a slight discrepancy by atmospheric extinction and a light grazing effect when the moon is past first or last quarter this may require a stop adjustment.

    The sunny 16 just states set your shutter to the reciprocal of the ISO and shoot at f/16.

    If you have the proper adaptor you don't even need a good lens or good body just a camera that that hold film flat or a digital with a good sensor.


    4638997280_15728aeb9f_o.

    I took this image at 1/250, f/10 at ISO 100 and there is no vertical crop.
     
  7. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason
    Grant,

    You are correct as far as exposure. It really depends on what phase it is in as well. The shot I made was at f6.3(or f8, I can't remember. I was playing too much trying to find the sharpest part of the lens) and at 1/100. Full moon requires even a faster shutter speed.

    A full moon in my telescope is almost blinding.
     
  8. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason

    7 elements:eek:

    Wow. All that is really needed I would think is a 2 or 3 element negative lens behind the the lens in front of the sensor.
     
  9. grum

    grum Mu-43 Regular

    104
    Apr 2, 2010
    This is my effort with the G1 and 45-200mm, handheld (cropped)

    4638497459_bdfe9b71e0_o.
     
  10. PeterB666

    PeterB666 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    780
    Jan 14, 2010
    Tura Beach, Australia
    Peter
    There were a couple of very popular 7-element teleconverters around in the late 70s and early 80s. Also 5 and the 3 or 3 element. The more elements, generally the less disortion and sharper the image (was the theory), but also more prone to flare.
     
  11. et100

    et100 Mu-43 Regular

    80
    Feb 15, 2010
    Chicago area - USA
    This is what i got hand-held with the Zuiko 70-300mm on E-PL1 (100% crop):

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9507432@N08/4646822514/" title="da moon! (luna) by jon in chicago, on Flickr"> 4646822514_b677c76dcc_o. "745" height="745" alt="da moon! (luna)" /></a>