Moon shots

jmax

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May 22, 2012
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Awesome details, PeHa :thumbup:

Here the galaxy "Luna" ;)
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jmax

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May 22, 2012
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A bit scary full moon :boohoo:
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Cheers
 

steveadams

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Jun 16, 2016
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South Georgia
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Another month, another full moon. It was quite large around here last night but I missed it. So I just had to go out tonight.

Full Moon W1134509 Final.jpeg
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Rifleair

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Aug 6, 2016
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Midlands, UK
the view outside tonight with the 12-40
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and with the 75-300
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Tywais

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Jan 23, 2014
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Chiang Mai, Thailand
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In Chiang Mai, Thailand last night. E-M1 and Panasonic 100-300mm lens. Interesting to see the shape difference of the view from two sides of the earth. <see previous moon shot by Rifleair>
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wjiang

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Christchurch, New Zealand
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40mm f/8
 

AllanG

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Pen-F with P100-400mm at 400mm.
 

lchien

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Aug 7, 2014
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Texas
Most people think shooting the moon is like a nighttime street scene.
That's far from the truth. The moon is a brightly lit subject, although it is 250,000 miles from us it is about the same distance from the sun as the earth and fully lit directly by the sun and no clouds.
Therefore its exposure value should be the same as a earthbound sunlit object on a bright summer day at noon.

From the days before widespread use of electronic exposure meters in cameras comes the The old rule of thumb called Sunny 16. It says the exposure for a sunlit, bright non-overcast day with sharp shadows is 1/filmspeed sec at f/16.

In those days filmspeed was called ASA but its the same as ISO film speed now.
So if you set your ISO to 200 then you need 1/200th sec at f/16.
Equivalent exposures at the same ISO would be
1/400 at f/11
1/800 at f/8
1/1600 at f/5.6
1/3200 at f/4

Since most of our lenses are pretty sharp all around at 2-3 stops from maximum aperture then you should consider the equivalent exposure of f/5.6 at 1/1600 and ISO 200 to be a good moon exposure. At least use it as a starting point from which to bracket if you wish to do so.

Metering directly with spot metering is also reasonably good for moon shots, because the reflectance of the moon (called albedo) is about 13.6% while meters assume an target that's 18% reflective. I suppose a proper exposure would be about 1/2 stop lower than the meter suggests to get the true tone.

For this discussion I presumed a tripod was used to steady the lens. If handholding and no stabilization then the other old rule of thumb is a shutter speed faster than 1/FL which for micro four thirds you should use the Equivalent FL for 35mm film. So if you are going for a frame filling shot you need about a MFT FL of around 500 mm or so 1/1000th sec or faster is acceptable for handheld, even.
 
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Danny.

Just me
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Jan 22, 2012
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New Zealand
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Long Canon tele lenses on the E-M10

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A bit of a crop

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Maybe a blue moon

All the best folks.

Danny.
 

Tsunami23

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Feb 6, 2017
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with an epl3
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Ana-Digi

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Feb 17, 2017
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Pentacon 200/4 with a Vivitar 2x Teleconverter, should give 800mm fov (both M42 for combined ~40$)

1:1 crop, E-PL5 freehand
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Kalifornier

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Apr 29, 2014
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California
Crescent Moon (GX8 + M42 mount Tele Lentar 300/5.5)
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PeHa

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Nov 12, 2013
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Sweden
Tested E-M1MkII with 300mmf4 & MC14 at ISO64.
First one is hi-res mode, 50% crop. The second one is not hi-res, 100% crop. Conclusion: Hi res does not add any details here... o_O But the E-M1 mk II and using hi-res mode is new to me, there might be more to learn.

Hi-res
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Not hi-res, 100% crop
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******
 
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