Monitor Calibration - Dell U2412M

HaViet

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Did you calibrate your monitor?

If yes, what was your calibration process? What device and software did you use?

I am coming from calibrating projector and plasma tvs and I do own an X-rite i1 display pro colorimeter. My software of choice is Color HCFR. Calibration is lengthy process.

I play with the the X-Rite i1Profiler, which was extremely quick and painless but I won't how accurate of a job it does. It did not ask me to make any changes to contrast/brightness, colors, saturation, etc on my monitor. It seems to took a bunch of readings of the different colors and create a profile that Windows uses to adjust the graphic rendering software/hardware. I haven't done any validation to ensure how far off i1Profiler is, but I doubt it's quick profile process would result in dEs of less than 3 across the grayscale.
 

krugorg

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I have a lower level Eizo monitor and calibrate with their branded puck.

It seems to work pretty well, but I am finding that what looks good on a backlit screen needs a little bump in brightness for printing. I wonder if others find this true, or if I need to do a better job of dialing in screen and ambient lighting?
 

laser8

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No, but I should as my prints are far off from how the pics look on my screen. I'll be thankful on any tip in the right direction as I see this becoming quite important as the number of pictures worth printing increase. I understand the "settings" for on screen view and printing differ, but do winder whether there is a possibility to create a "template" calibration for each purpose.
 

HaViet

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I calibrate my projectors and HDTV with an X-rite i1Display Pro meter and Color HCFR calibrating software, along with a AVSHD pattern discs.

It is a lengthy process that requires you to typically run through a point grayscale adjustments, correcting your primary and secondary colors with the right saturation and luminance. It is necessary if you wish to project accurate colors from your HDTV and home theater projector.

I haven't gone through this process with a monitor since I haven't felt the need to. I did a quick run with i1Profiler, but I feel that is a quick fix and far from being a properly calibrating a process. And based on what I have read thus, i1Profiler is not the solution if your goal is to reach the D65 target within a dE of 3.
 

HappyFish

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two things :)

1) what is your brightness set to ? 110 to 120 cd/m2 ? make sure that is correct and try to lower that if you can with your monitor ?
often some less expensive that top pro monitors cant get lower without some sacrificing of quality though :)


2)this could also be what the print is ?
meaning the printer itself just has those characteristics
look into soft proofing will really show you what the print is going to be like over guessing ;)

of course test prints and compare etc..

hit the color management menu check out the soft proofing articles :)
http://www.gamutprints.com/color-management/


I have a lower level Eizo monitor and calibrate with their branded puck.

It seems to work pretty well, but I am finding that what looks good on a backlit screen needs a little bump in brightness for printing. I wonder if others find this true, or if I need to do a better job of dialing in screen and ambient lighting?
 

HappyFish

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just remember if you have a cheap monitor or one that is known to not be as color accurate a profile won't make it color accurate :) it will just make it as good as can be

as I say like tuning a car will not change what it is or make it better than it can be but often some will find it good enough :)

Did you calibrate your monitor?

If yes, what was your calibration process? What device and software did you use?

I am coming from calibrating projector and plasma tvs and I do own an X-rite i1 display pro colorimeter. My software of choice is Color HCFR. Calibration is lengthy process.

I play with the the X-Rite i1Profiler, which was extremely quick and painless but I won't how accurate of a job it does. It did not ask me to make any changes to contrast/brightness, colors, saturation, etc on my monitor. It seems to took a bunch of readings of the different colors and create a profile that Windows uses to adjust the graphic rendering software/hardware. I haven't done any validation to ensure how far off i1Profiler is, but I doubt it's quick profile process would result in dEs of less than 3 across the grayscale.
 

MrPhotoBob

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Yes, I calibrate my monitor every four weeks. I use a Colormunki for Photographers in order to accomplish this. I set my brightness to 120 cd/m2 and I use printer profiles from Epson for my Epson 2400 and 2880 printers for my Epson paper. I also use the profiles supplied by each company that I purchase paper from. It is very easy to go on line to download those profiles. I also My prints comes out great every time, I also clean the heads on my printer prior to each printing session. I try and wait till I have a few images to print prior to doing any printing.
 

HaViet

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Yes, I calibrate my monitor every four weeks. I use a Colormunki for Photographers in order to accomplish this. I set my brightness to 120 cd/m2 and I use printer profiles from Epson for my Epson 2400 and 2880 printers for my Epson paper. I also use the profiles supplied by each company that I purchase paper from. It is very easy to go on line to download those profiles. I also My prints comes out great every time, I also clean the heads on my printer prior to each printing session. I try and wait till I have a few images to print prior to doing any printing.
If you want to print (and for the prints to resemble anything like what's on your monitor), then calibration is essential. I use a Spyder 3. Seems to work well enough.

Could you share which software you use to calibrate with your devices?
 

jnewell

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Did you calibrate your monitor?

If yes, what was your calibration process? What device and software did you use?

I am coming from calibrating projector and plasma tvs and I do own an X-rite i1 display pro colorimeter. My software of choice is Color HCFR. Calibration is lengthy process.

I play with the the X-Rite i1Profiler, which was extremely quick and painless but I won't how accurate of a job it does. It did not ask me to make any changes to contrast/brightness, colors, saturation, etc on my monitor. It seems to took a bunch of readings of the different colors and create a profile that Windows uses to adjust the graphic rendering software/hardware. I haven't done any validation to ensure how far off i1Profiler is, but I doubt it's quick profile process would result in dEs of less than 3 across the grayscale.
I am still using an i1 puck. I use the X-Rite software, but have never had any luck with the quick/automatic setting - but going through and doing it step by step does usually make a significant difference. If you and I are speaking of the same software, you might try that?
 

budeny

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How often should be LCD monitors re-calibrated?
It was a case with CRT's because of their technology, but I thought LCD's are much more stable over time.
 

OzRay

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The instruction recommend something like every month, but I leave it much longer than that (maybe every six months+), as LCD monitors are more stable and unless you're into critical colour management, it shouldn't really matter.
 

jnewell

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The instruction recommend something like every month, but I leave it much longer than that (maybe every six months+), as LCD monitors are more stable and unless you're into critical colour management, it shouldn't really matter.
Yeah. Since I stopped using CRTs (quite a while back), I find that a couple of times a year is fine, unless there's some change in the system software or components.
 

HaViet

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I did another calibration after having the monitor warmed up for a little over an hour. I also set the target at 6500k/daylight. Attached are snapshots of the measurements report. Perhaps it might interest someone. Everything seem to look pretty decent to me.
 

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HaViet

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Thanks for the input Bif.

Now that I've calibrated the monitor and created a profile for Windows 7 to use in Color Management.

How do I make sure that LR5 is also using this ICC profile I've created. Does LR5 picks up the ICC profile automatically, or do I need to make some settings changes in LR5?

Thanks,
 
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