Minimum shutter speed when walking

Discussion in 'Scenic, Architecture, and Travel' started by russell, Jan 29, 2011.

  1. russell

    russell Mu-43 Regular

    Dec 28, 2010
    Victoria, Australia
    A slightly odd question for you all.

    I've always worked with the 1/focal length rule for handheld shutter speed with 35 mm. I suppose a similar rule or a bit slower might apply with m4/3 and image stabilisation (half size sensor but perhaps 1-2 stops realistically of IS performance)

    My question is though, how slow can go go if you're shooting without breaking your stride, and therefore moving the camera around a lot more?

    Why do I ask? I'm in the planning stages of a "then & now" photography project. With one of the old photos I'm trying to match, I have ascertained from the way things align that it was taken from the middle of the intersection of what is now two busy streets. It's not possible to stop there (on foot at least) without getting skittled!

    My other option is to take it from a car, but just wondering if anyone can speak from experience. (I would just try it and see but I don't have an m4/3 camera yet.)
  2. Streetshooter

    Streetshooter Administrator Emeritus

    Dec 15, 2009
    Phila, Pa USA
    I can do 1/30 while walking but lately I'm using like 1250 or 1600 for iso even in bright light so I actually get 1/2000-1/4000 a lot....

    if you breathe properly you could do 1/15 easy if your in sync with your body and the breathing rhythm.... then again if the image was good who cares about PROPER focus....
    I don't...
  3. Why not get a wired remote release and fire continuous while panning? A second possibility, do a late night, high ISO shot from alongside or inside your car while flashing your hazard lights.

    Being old and rickety necessitates most all my photography is from inside or alongside my car.
  4. russell

    russell Mu-43 Regular

    Dec 28, 2010
    Victoria, Australia
    Thanks guys. Streetshooter that sounds promising. I see where you're coming from with comments on focus and noise but my aim with this particular project is a high fidelity rendition of the current streetscape providing as near as possible the exact same field of view and angle as the historical photographs--so focus and noise should be good.

    flmerrell, I can probably stop for a few seconds in daytime with just my turn signal on as the magic spot happens to be adjacent to a turn-off. The night idea is intriguing though, so as to minimise obscuring of buildings by vehicles. (As it is, I'm faced with a wait until the street trees lose those pesky leaves.)