Metabones vs Fuji?

Cruzan80

Mu-43 All-Pro
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
1,107
Location
Denver, Co
Real Name
Sean Rastsmith
So going thru a decision in my head on where to head going foward with my camera gear. The first ILC I have bought is the Panasonic G3 a couple of years ago (before firesales once G5 announced). Before that it was just cheap P&S, and little/no idea of photographic concepts. I have a Panasonic G3, P14-42, P20, and a stable of legacy Minolta SR glass (V28/2, MD45/2, MD 50/1.4, V55/2.8 Macro, MC 58/1.4/1.2, V135/2.8, JC80-200/4, V2x Macro TC). I also have a manual flash, a Cokin A set, and other accesories that can be used with these and other lenses.

Fuji Positives: I find myself being lured by Fuji for their manual controls and OOC Jpegs. The Rangefinder look vs the mini-DSLR isn't really a concern for me right now, as I don't really care which way it works out, as long as it is comfortable to hold (and the G3 has the smallest grip of any of the G series). Right now I find myself unable to change speed fast enough in Manual on the thumbwheel, and feel the dedicated dials for SS and EC would help me shoot in manual even more than I do now (vs Aperture Priority). I rarely use the LCD screen on the G3, except for reviewing pictures. I can probably count on both hands the number of times I have folded it out and at an angle to take a picture. The onboard flash can be bounced in a pinch (vs using a folded receipt to bounce the onboard up). I also believe that on the Fuji you can go above the sync speed at your own risk (the G3 is locked at 1/160 max, even in manual).

Fuji Negatives: Price. If I were to swap systems, I would pick up the 18-55 kit lens so I had at least one AF lens. Aside from a couple of used deals that seem to go quick, most X-E1 sales are body only, and by the time I add the lens, I am almost at a new price (Adorama has it for $700). Then I add a grip, batteries, etc. I would also need to adjust my workflow to accomodate the Xtrans sensor. I have heard that the latest LR seems to do a fairly decent job (especially compared to older versions), so I won't have to learn a new program entirely. I have also asked at the Fuji X forum how the Xtrans sensor behaves with the coloration/look of the Minolta glass, as that is the primary type of lens I am going to put on it. I wouldn't have a pancake currently like I do with the G3/P20, but I can either get a Fuji 27 or an Industar 69 (same aperture on both) down the road. 3:2 Aspect ratio may end up being a negative, as the first ILC I have had is the G3, and I find myself liking the 4:3 aspect ratio more than the 3:2. But that may be because that is how I started to visualize it, and if I had the 3:2 that included the 4:3 I see on the screen, I would be fine with that too.

Metabones Positives: Price. Even at $400, it is cheaper than the alternative. It should also hold its value if I decide that I am not getting enough use out of it for resale without too much of a hit (glass always holds value better than bodies). It gives me the shallower DoF I can occasionally want while changing nothing else about how I shoot. It also adds a tripod mount in front of the camera for better balancing on some of my heavier lenses.

Metabones Negatives: Locked into one mount. I have been fairly pleased with the Minolta glass I have, and have disposed of a couple of other brands that I picked up to try. However, this means that the investment I have is unable to change to something else.

Metabones Wash: Lower F-stop. Sometimes I can see this being a great thing, other times I am already bumping up against the shutter limit, and shooting more open will only make this worse.

So I have a few different ways I can do this. To go the Fuji route, I will be selling some things to fund it, primarily the P20 and kit lens (unsure about the G3 body, as I am not sure how much it would be worth, compared to having a second "set" of focal lengths). Or I keep everything I have, get the Metabones, and shoot that way. I find myself shooting 95+% of my shots between 14-60mm on the m4/3 with the remaining 5% being in the 60-200mm range (all actual focal lengths). So I don't think I will be missing out on too much that the kit lens+legacy glass covers on the Fuji.

Right now this is just me musing back and forth. We are in the midst of showing our house to sell, and any decision will probably be in a month or two. The good news is that either way I go, there is an actual camera store where we are moving to which carries both Fuji and m4/3, so I can try out new things instead of just reading reviews. Anything else I missed that may have a bearing one way or the other on my decision?
 

Cruzan80

Mu-43 All-Pro
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
1,107
Location
Denver, Co
Real Name
Sean Rastsmith
The EM5 gives me an almost wash in sensor below 1600, and the EM1 is outside my price range. Both still give me the same FoV I currently have, while either the Fuji or Speedbooster will give me a second option. The manual controls seem to make sense on dedicated dials in this case, as I find myself usually using one ISO per photowalk, so the 2x2 wouldnt gain me any advantage that Shutter and EC do.

BTW, I posted something similar on FujiX just to get both sides (that one had far more technical questions in it).
Sent from my LG-P769 using Mu-43 mobile app
 

barry13

Mu-43.com Editor
Joined
Mar 7, 2014
Messages
9,780
Location
Southern California
Real Name
Barry
The manual controls seem to make sense on dedicated dials in this case, as I find myself usually using one ISO per photowalk, so the 2x2 wouldnt gain me any advantage that Shutter and EC do.
Hi, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here, but FYI you can re-program the dials on the E-M1 (and probably the E-M5).
My dials aren't set to adjust ISO in any mode.

Barry
 

Cruzan80

Mu-43 All-Pro
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
1,107
Location
Denver, Co
Real Name
Sean Rastsmith
What I am saying is that aside from a few dedicated situations (increasing mag. in MF, etc.) I would rarely need to adjust more than the shutter speed and Exposure compensation, so having the dials pre-programmed to that isn't a hinderance to me. There just isn't enough difference in the E-M5 to justify it, and the EM-1 is way outside what I am looking to spend.
 

orfeo

Mu-43 Top Veteran
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Messages
673
Location
FR
You should play with a xt1 before switching system. I tried one very briefly and I couldn't understand what all the fuss was about. The controls are so slow and unergonomic you really have to love the old time retro thing and vibe. It looks good on the web but felt nowhere near solid as the gh4 and em1 felt...
 

Cruzan80

Mu-43 All-Pro
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
1,107
Location
Denver, Co
Real Name
Sean Rastsmith
Yeah, XT1 is also above my price range. Since I have a plastic fantastic G3, I doubt the build quality will be that off-putting, but will be trying to handle a Fuji before commiting, to make sure it fits my hands. Looking at the X-E1 (or possibly the X-E2). The XT1 has features I would like better, but price puts it out of the running. By the time I can afford it on "play around" money, the XT2 will probably be out.

Suprised that I am one of the few going through this logic. I figure the advantages of a larger sensor are roughly imitated thru the Speedbooster (since they are roughly same generation sensors), so it just comes down to interface. Or is it just that the people who chose Fuji are no longer on this forum to chime in?
 

wilson

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
44
Right now I find myself unable to change speed fast enough in Manual on the thumbwheel, and feel the dedicated dials for SS and EC would help me shoot in manual even more than I do now (vs Aperture Priority).
I don't get this.

On the G3, in Manual mode the thumbwheel adjusts both the Aperture and Shutter Speed, you just press it to switch between the two. I don't see separate dials being much faster.

I also don't see why you need to adjust exposure compensation when you're already in full Manual mode... I don't even think it's adjustable since it's in already full Manual mode. Isn't the point of Manual mode is that you're adjusting the SS, A, and ISO manually... the Exposure Compensation setting is just there to tell the AUTOMATIC settings to under/over expose.
 

taz98spin

Mu-43 Top Veteran
Joined
May 13, 2011
Messages
843
Location
NYC
Suprised that I am one of the few going through this logic. I figure the advantages of a larger sensor are roughly imitated thru the Speedbooster (since they are roughly same generation sensors), so it just comes down to interface. Or is it just that the people who chose Fuji are no longer on this forum to chime in?
It's just that most Fuji users here get attacked, or countered by claims that folks read on the internet, when praising Fuji. Personally, I am tired of reading comments like
"
You should play with a xt1 before switching system. I tried one very briefly and I couldn't understand what all the fuss was about. The controls are so slow and unergonomic you really have to love the old time retro thing and vibe. It looks good on the web but felt nowhere near solid as the gh4 and em1 felt...
" this. Someone tried a camera briefly and they somehow feel the need to comment negatively.

As for your case.. it seems that price is a important factor, so I would go for the Metabones. The X-E1 or X-E2 will only keep dropping in price as time goes by, so after you've used the Metabones to your liking, than you can sell that with little loss (I've been looking to buy on too, but the price doesn't move too much..).
 

Cruzan80

Mu-43 All-Pro
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
1,107
Location
Denver, Co
Real Name
Sean Rastsmith
I don't get this.

On the G3, in Manual mode the thumbwheel adjusts both the Aperture and Shutter Speed, you just press it to switch between the two. I don't see separate dials being much faster.

I also don't see why you need to adjust exposure compensation when you're already in full Manual mode... I don't even think it's adjustable since it's in already full Manual mode. Isn't the point of Manual mode is that you're adjusting the SS, A, and ISO manually... the Exposure Compensation setting is just there to tell the AUTOMATIC settings to under/over expose.
In M, I would be usi.g the shutter, in A, the EC. My problem now is that the wheel on the G3 seems to have a very short throw, along with the depress option you said. So I have to keep "resetting" my thumb to keep scrolling. I am thinking (based on just pictures and no actual experience) that the larger wheel will have a longer throw, along without having to worry about pressing it in.

Sent from my LG-P769 using Mu-43 mobile app
 

wilson

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
44
In M, I would be usi.g the shutter, in A, the EC. My problem now is that the wheel on the G3 seems to have a very short throw, along with the depress option you said. So I have to keep "resetting" my thumb to keep scrolling. I am thinking (based on just pictures and no actual experience) that the larger wheel will have a longer throw, along without having to worry about pressing it in.
Oh, that's why. I don't use my camera in the same way you do. I don't generally need to go from one extreme end of the aperture range to the other, and similarly for SS. I'm usually just tweaking between close settings a couple of steps away from each other. I also don't generally shoot quick moving objects that require quick dynamic changes because I'm still learning how to properly compose photos. So, for me, changing hardware will not appreciably improve my photography skills... it won't change which f-stops and shutter speeds I use and won't fix my lack of composition skills... I just need to spend more time taking pictures.

Each person has his/her own shooting style and preferences (and budgets as well.) If a hardware upgrade with easier to access manual controls makes you feel more comfortable taking pictures, then it's the right choice for you.
 

Cruzan80

Mu-43 All-Pro
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
1,107
Location
Denver, Co
Real Name
Sean Rastsmith
That is what I am trying to figure out. The other benefit from having controls I can see is that (hypothetically) I won't hand it off to my wife with the completely wrong settings dialed in from a previous photowalk. Shooting at f2 ISO 3200 doesn't work in daylight...nor does ISO 200 f8 work in a nursery with the blinds down.

The aperture I find is easy enough since most of the lenses I use are legacy, and I can get about 4-5 stops in one rotation. I find I can only get less than 3 stops of shutter speed, assuming I don't accidentally manage to hit the magnify. Don't get me wrong, I like the way it is set up, and how the controls are currently I just wonder if the Fuji implementation would make it easier, along with giving me the benefit of the Speedbooster for FoV.
 
Links on this page may be to our affiliates. Sales through affiliate links may benefit this site.
Mu-43 is a fan site and not associated with Olympus, Panasonic, or other manufacturers mentioned on this site.
Forum post reactions by Twemoji: https://github.com/twitter/twemoji
Copyright © 2009-2019 Amin Forums, LLC
Top Bottom