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Me or the camera?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Exposed, Aug 30, 2011.

  1. Exposed

    Exposed Mu-43 Regular

    136
    Apr 13, 2011
    Central Washington State
    Randy dawson
    Looking at this photo, I am needing to know if I have something set wrong or is this just the extent of the camera? I am talking about the blow out area and white bleed over. Shot with an Olympus epl-2, 14-42 MSC II. Being new to the M4/3rd, I just do not remember this happening so bad to photos when shooting my Nikon D300.
     
  2. sprinke

    sprinke Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 5, 2011
    Pasadena, CA
    Debi
    Do you know what metering mode you were using?
     
  3. Exposed

    Exposed Mu-43 Regular

    136
    Apr 13, 2011
    Central Washington State
    Randy dawson
    Aperture Priority, 1/40, f 5, pattern mode, no flash, 400 ISO.
     
  4. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    75% of the picture is relatively dark... 25% is bight sky... the camera guessed you wanted the tree exposed correctly

    welcome to the world of photography... its full of compromises...maybe your d300 made better guess... but no camera is foolproof

    k
     
  5. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    I doubt any camera could have made a better guess on this scene. I wouldn't want the foreground of my image any less exposed than that. Look at the close side of the bridge, it's just on the verge of underexposure.

    What would have improved this image would be to use a neutral density or polarizer filter to keep the contrast (much of the image is kind of washed out) while shooting directly into so much sunlight. You should also use a lens hood. There's certainly nothing wrong with the camera, though.

    Or you could underexpose the entire scene a little, then use a gradient level adjustment to bring the exposure up from the bottom right corner which will be in the most shadow, and even out the scene in post-processing. Or just pick a better scene at a better time of day...
     
  6. anidel

    anidel Mu-43 Regular

    166
    May 13, 2011
    Twickenham, Uk
    My guess is that 1/40 @ F5 ISO 400 was bound to be overexposed.

    F5 is a fairly open aperture, 1/40 is way slow shutter speed and ISO 400 is way sensitive with that much light.

    It looks you shot during the day, a ISO 200, 1/125 at F8 may be would have been better.
    Or 1/500 @ F4.

    Also, set the camera to Gradation Auto and it'll improve these situations with contrasty area.

    I am just brainstorming here :) I just read about rules between apertures, shutter speeds and ISO and was trying to check if I am on the way of getting it correctly :/
     
  7. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    You're right, there should have been no need for ISO400 in this scene...
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. anidel

    anidel Mu-43 Regular

    166
    May 13, 2011
    Twickenham, Uk
    And 1/40, even with IS on, is too slow for handheld (as this shot seems to suggest).
     
  9. brianvickers

    brianvickers Mu-43 Regular

    123
    Jul 1, 2011
    1/40th with IS on should be fine - I'd be happy to go even slower than that -with IS on you might be able to go down to 1/20th or even slower with care.
     
  10. Exposed

    Exposed Mu-43 Regular

    136
    Apr 13, 2011
    Central Washington State
    Randy dawson
    Well this gives me lots to think about. I will work on things. Just when I thought I had this digital thing down, more to work on.

    There are so many things I enjoy about the Pen but I am finding out it just does not have the ability to capture images like the Nikon, nor did I think it would but I did not think it would be this far of a difference. Do not get me wrong, I will not give up on the :43: but will just need to be more "intune" with what I shoot.

    Thank you for the info everyone,

    Randy
     
  11. anidel

    anidel Mu-43 Regular

    166
    May 13, 2011
    Twickenham, Uk
    If you want to learn, as I am doing, go manual and play with Apertures.

    I suggest you this reading:

    Ultimate Exposure Computer
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Exposed

    Exposed Mu-43 Regular

    136
    Apr 13, 2011
    Central Washington State
    Randy dawson
    Anidel,

    Thank you for the link, I will take alook. Guess I need to learn more about digital than exposure. I come from 25 years of shooting Hasselblads using film. But I think you are correct, shoot in manual is something I need to get back to. All this AF, Auto this and that, took me away from knowing the correct settings.

    Again, thank you,

    Randy
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. LovinTheEP2

    LovinTheEP2 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    619
    Feb 15, 2011
    Toronto
    With all that has been said, it does bring up one very interesting point, is the IQ really that off and the Nikon that much better. I don't think so, at least not from my experience.

    So if he had set his cam to A-mode.. why is the IQ so far off... I don't think its so easy as just to right off the image as user error. Yes, it was a challenging shot but the PENs in my experience should have handled the scene much better.

    Did you do any exposure compensation either + or -?

    To me, it looks as though the metering might have been spot (near center or to the left) or center weighted.. hence the over exposure. Cam might have pick the nearest mailbox as the focus point and depth of field accordingly with a wide aperature might have caused the overall lack of detail.

    Looks like IS was off.. at 1/40s and lack of sharpness, seems to be a bit out of focus.. maybe some camera shake.

    Overall, it seems to me at least that even with all that said.. the camera should have nailed the picture a bit more. I'm wondering if it's a camera setup issues in the menu's or something on the super control panel that is set to default that is affecting it.. or a bad lens perhaps but hard to tell from just a single image from the outing.
     
  14. LovinTheEP2

    LovinTheEP2 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    619
    Feb 15, 2011
    Toronto
    Any chance you can post more images from that outing see we draw together a better case study???
     
  15. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    Center weighted or spot metering is of course the most accurate. But if you want it to do what you want, you need to take control and tell it what you want, as a photographer.

    Now you can always use the AEL/AFL button to lock your exposure in a spot, but I prefer to seperate the Exposure Lock and Focus Lock (why should these two be locked to the same place!?) by using back-button focus. I set my AutoFocus to the big red button, leaving my Exposure Lock to the half-press of the shutter. That gives me a simple 3-step process to taking a photo with Auto functions which still gives me personal control of what the camera is doing - 1) find focus point, press and hold big red button, 2) find exposure point, half-press shutter, 3) compose image, fully depress shutter.

    Auto functions like metering and focus are meant to assist the photographer and save you time, not to wrest all control of the camera away from the photographer. There's nothing wrong with auto functions if you understand how they work and set your camera in such a way that you can still give guidance.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  16. flash

    flash Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Apr 29, 2010
    1 hour from Sydney Australia.
    Gordon
    I think a quarter of a decade shooting 'blads would give you a decent idea of exposure and how to set it. The simple answer is that, yes, your D300 would have handled the extreme dynamic range here better than the Pen. The D300 has bigger pixels, more dynamic range and a higher bit depth. m4/3 needs more care when determining the optimum exposure but the results can be as good. You'll just need to think like you're using the Hassleblad and not the Nikon.

    However, with a scene like this I feel the result from the D300 would have also been beyond it's dynamic range and the shot not so good.

    My suggestion would be to get used to two things, the first of which the Nikon just can't do. Switch on the live histogram and if you don't already (I don't know) learn how to read it. It's by far the biggest benefit to m4/3 other than size over a dSLR. Secondly look seriously at getting good at blending bracketed exposures (HDR). They don't have to look fake and it's the digital version of the grad filter (which also would have helped here). HDR, stitching etc are so easy now that it really means that there's very little you can't do with m4/3.

    Gordon
     
  17. jim_khoo

    jim_khoo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 9, 2010
    Kuala Lumpur
    hi ned,
    if you don't mind... how is this set on the E-PL2?
    currently, i have my big red button as "off" as i easily pressed it. :biggrin:
     
  18. LovinTheEP2

    LovinTheEP2 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    619
    Feb 15, 2011
    Toronto
    Agreed when a scene is relatively evening distributed in all 4 quadrents with incident light. With the upper quad being so much brighter then the other 3, it seems as though it was metered to darker part of the image - hence why F5 took such a slow shutter speed of 1/40.

    Using sunny 16 as a guide and assuming the overall scene is more like overcast based on the other 3 quads; so lets say you need to increase exposure 4 fold

    1/400 --> 200 --> 100 --> 50 (3x)
    F16 --> F11 (1x) = next 4 fold

    F11, 1/50s, iso 400 would be near target exposure

    So the scene is potentially 2 stops overexposed

    F11 --> F8 --> F5.6

    Not having the raw or full jpg is hard to tell but it does seem about 1-1.5stops overexposed.

    Question is why was the scene overexposed? exposure composition or mis-metering??
     
  19. Exposed

    Exposed Mu-43 Regular

    136
    Apr 13, 2011
    Central Washington State
    Randy dawson
    Here is one more photo from the same place.
     
  20. John M Flores

    John M Flores Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jan 7, 2011
    Somerville, NJ
    Agreed and solid advice.