Before you get too bent out of shape.Thanks. I did try that but was overwhelmed with posts that didn't help. Ok I'll look elsewhere.
Yeah, 60mm can be used in studio too, so for a single macro lens I'd estimate 5 % might focus mostly on studio.For studio work you want a 30 mm
For live insects, etc. you want a 60 mm
There is a very good review by Ming Thuin?? (the guy who photos watches a lot - in Singapore maybe) and he liked the Oly 60 best. His review should be easy to find as he is a prolific blogger/reviewer and even hired an employee or compatriot recently.
Is there some reason that you skipped the Olympus 30mm Macro? I was thinking about buying it because it recently went on sale but thought you might have skipped listing it for some very good reason like it was not a decent macro lens, so I wanted to ask.From what I know there are the Lumix 30mm, the Panasonic Leica 45mm and the Zuiko 60mm, which is supposedly most useful for insects since it allows for some distance. Some reviews can be found on Lenstip.com, ePHOTOzine.com, imaging-resource.com, dxomark.com, among others.
a good point - most "macros" are really just close-ups, so stabilisation can be worthwhileAlso consider various goodies - the Panasonic 45mm and 30mm have lens stabilisation, the 30mm olympus 3.5 can go to 1.25x magnification, the Olympus 60mm 2.8 is weather sealed. Panasonic 45mm and Olympus 60mm have a physical focus limiter switch.
My retail therapy treat was one of these -All macro lenses are reputably, (is that even a word?), excellent.
Every one, that I have had, has certainly been so.
I could live without the focus limiter switch, easily..
I promise to swoop on the next oly 30 I can lay my hands on.
Thing that freaks me out about that lens is the huge flange around the front... I think I would probably hate it, but if anybody can figure out how to decently light a subject despite that and zero working distance, I guess you will...
I almost bought the KX-800 with it!Thing that freaks me out about that lens is the huge flange around the front... I think I would probably hate it, but if anybody can figure out how to decently light a subject despite that and zero working distance, I guess you will...
Well, on the bright side, you'll probably be able to shoot at less light-hungry apertures... maybe. Can you even put a polarizer on that thing?But I think I spent too much and too long working on my existing twin flash setup to just give in without trying to make them work with the 15mm first.