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lumix 14-45 distant focus

Discussion in 'Panasonic Cameras' started by huepic, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. huepic

    huepic Mu-43 Rookie

    11
    Oct 1, 2015
    Hi,
    I'm finding distant focussing a major dilemma with the 14-45 lens on a GX8. In Auto the focus keeps hunting & in manual it is out of focus when I get near the red marker in the viewfinder.
    Reading the manual I am led to believe that the red area is for infinity but this not the case when I review photos/video.
    As I do have to use polarising filters in the glaring tropics I hope that the filters aren't the cause.
    Could it be a hidden or overlooked setting in the camera ?
     
  2. profgregorio

    profgregorio Mu-43 Regular

    116
    May 21, 2013
    Manila, Philippines
    Perhaps, your camera is set on AF-C where it will keep hunting for a point on which to focus as you move your camera (or the subject moves in front of the camera). Try to set it to AFS instead.
     
  3. huepic

    huepic Mu-43 Rookie

    11
    Oct 1, 2015
    Hi profgregorio,
    thank you for trying to help. I wonder if others have the same problem of not getting sharp focus at infinity, even in manual focus. I always use manual focus when taking shots of islands or panoramic because, as you said, the focus keeps hunting in auto. I'm trying to find out how get clear focus at infinity. Am I misunderstanding that the red area at infinity is in fact infinity ? For example, if I shoot islands on the horizon I find it impossible to get sharp focus but as soon as I lower the camera blow the horizon I get a better image. I have tried to photograph/video birds & aircraft but they're always out of focus. Should I buy another lens perhaps ? I'm living in a remote area so walking into a camera shop & trying lenses is not an option.
     
  4. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Almost all modern electronic lenses will actually focus past infinity, so if you're moving manual focus all the way to the end marker you are almost certainly going to be out of focus.
    When focussing on distant landscape, you probably don't want infinity anyway - somewhere between hyperfocal and infinity is probably better. I almost never focus at infinity except when taking photos of stars and such, and even then, I prefer to punch in and fine tune focus in magnified view. I suggest you do the same - go into magnify view and check how the focus changes as you adjust manual focus.
     
  5. profgregorio

    profgregorio Mu-43 Regular

    116
    May 21, 2013
    Manila, Philippines
    Hi Huepic. Before you decide to buy another lens, I suggest that you try the following: 1) Set your camera to AFS. 2) Using the LCD: use your finger on the LCD to select the object to focus on. 3) Using the EVF: focus on the object by pressing the shutter button halfway while the selected object is within the focus zone designated by the corner markers. This will verify if your lens is truly defective. I hope this helps. P1010522.JPG

    By the way, I took this photo using the 14-45 lens with a Circular Polarizing Filter on my G7 using the technique indicated in 1) and 3). I have never encountered similar problems.
     

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  6. huepic

    huepic Mu-43 Rookie

    11
    Oct 1, 2015
    Hi profgregorio,
    Thank you again for your helpful advise. When I get out again this week I'll practice the technique. I re-read the manual & it states that by placing the focus indicater right at where the white line meets the red I should get perfect focus. I've done this in the past with mixed results. It's more or less a hit or miss situation paricularly when in video mode.
    regards
     
  7. Bif

    Bif Mu-43 Veteran

    380
    May 28, 2012
    San Angelo TX
    Bruce Foreman
    I doubt seriously if your lens is at all defective. I have 2 copies of that Lumix 14-45 lens and it's one of the best "kit" lenses on the market. Our m4/3 cameras depend on refined contrast detection to "find" autofocus "lock", subjects at a distance (especially the horizon on water) will often tend to lack enough contrast to provide that autofocus "lock". Manual focus will be hard to judge because there is no "tactile feel" (no direct "drive" of the focusing) by the focus ring.

    It's an electrical signal sent by the focus ring that controls focusing. And it's not linear by nature, the speed at which you turn the ring affects the rate of focus but not in any way you can control. Use of the magnified focus assist with manual focus is the way to go here. And the EVF will give you better visual evaluation of in focus or not.

    Birds in flight or aircraft both move too fast to get reliable autofocus "lock" also. What I do is find something that seems at about the distance my "target" is going to be, focus on that and leave it there. You can always look at your first shot and magnify it either on the LCD or preferably in the EVF (outdoors in daylight).

    Good luck.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. huepic

    huepic Mu-43 Rookie

    11
    Oct 1, 2015
    Hi Bif,
    thank you
     
  9. Bif

    Bif Mu-43 Veteran

    380
    May 28, 2012
    San Angelo TX
    Bruce Foreman
    One other possible solution might be using adapted "legacy" lenses such as old Nikon F mount (what I sometimes use) or Pentax or Minolta lenses. There are some fairly inexpensive buys on ebay along those lines. Focusing is pure manual but you get the "tactile" feedback of a focusing ring that has a direct mechanical drive to the focusing elements.

    And of course aperture will be fully manual by means of a ring with marked f/stops. You'll be in either manual exposure mode or likely aperture priority if you want auto exposure of some kind. I'd go full manual, set ISO, shutter speed on the camera, use the aperture ring for f/stop and the focusing ring for focus.

    If you have CONSTANT PREVUE set to ON in the menus, you see the actual effect of exposure in the EVF as the image will lighten or darken with changes you make in settings. Couple that with the meter readout and you can get a pretty decent prevue of what your image is going to look like.