Looking for a tele _ so many options

Discussion in 'Native Lenses' started by Vicky, Mar 17, 2014.

  1. Vicky

    Vicky Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 6, 2013
    Hello everybody,

    After purchasing the Olympus 45mm, F1.8 (of which I am really really satisfied!) I find that I miss the zoom.

    Here a little 'sketch' of my amateur photography; I a big dog lover, so obviously dogs are my main subject.
    I prefer taking shots of dogs behaving naturally, so I'm a big fan of action shots.

    With the Oly F1.8 taking action shots, is just a matter of some practice and getting used to. The big aperture makes it much easier to use high shutter speeds without raising the ISO in a way that noise is disturbing the picture. The AF is fast enough to take agility shots (for those who know the sport) and I looooove the bokeh that you can achieve with this lens.

    BUT... When the dogs are running in an open field, 45mm is either too close or too far away. I need to crop a lot, which downgrades the quality of the shot.
    For this reason I'm looking for a bigger zoom. I found some good prices online for these lenses:

    - Pana 45-150, f4.0-5.6
    - Pana 45-200, f4.0-5.6
    - Pana 45-175, f4.0 -5.6 powerzoom
    - Oly 40-150, f4.0-5.6

    My question to you;
    - I'm afraid the smaller aperture will make it really difficult to use a higher shutter speed. My camera is mostly set on SP 1000 or more. My experience with the kit lens (which is f3.5 I think) was that it's pretty hard to get a decent action shot when using the zoom. Will this be a problem? Or maybe can you give me any tips on how to rase the SP with smaller aperture?

    - 4 lenses, all just a tiny bit different... What to choose?! I read the Oly 40-150 vs Pana 45-150 thread, and the only thing I concluded was the fact that actually they're practically the same. Which ironically makes it more difficult for me to decide

    - During my internet search I found the 'Panasonic tele conversion lens DMW GTC1. Is this any good? Can I put it on my kit lens?

    Thanks in advance to try and give me some clarity about all of these options. It's hard to decide when finding so much information on the internet :) 

    Example of the shots I want to take:
  2. madogvelkor

    madogvelkor Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 22, 2013
    Are you using a Panasonic body? If that's the case you'll want to use a Panasonic lens because the OIS built in is really helpful with telephoto lenses. I've used the 45-150, 45-200, and 100-300 in the past. My favorite is the 45-150 even though you don't get as much reach. It is small, light, and sharp.

    I've heard good things about the more expensive 45-175, but haven't tried it myself.

    Avoid the teleconver -- it degrades the image quality and only really works at maximum zoom. And even then it is only doubling the kit zoom, making it 84mm.
  3. Vicky

    Vicky Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 6, 2013

    Yes indeed, I'm using the Panasonic DMC-G5. Okay so that still leaves three options.
    Exactly what does 'power zoom' mean? Same aperture, same reach,... What exactly is different from a 'normal zoom'?
  4. vm666

    vm666 Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    Jan 19, 2013
    The zoom is electric, using two buttons. AFAIK, this is mainly used for video. You can also zoom with your smartphone if you have a body with Wifi.
  5. Vicky

    Vicky Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 6, 2013
    Okay, so not really an added value if you don't need the video?
  6. Steven

    Steven Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 25, 2012
    As the poster above said, since you have Pana body you have to use Pana lenses to get stabilization. Forget the old and heavy 45-200. 45-175 is cool because it does not telescope out like regular zooms, so it stays small. You can use that nifty rocker control on your G5 to control the zoom.
  7. dhazeghi

    dhazeghi Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Aug 6, 2010
    San Jose, CA
    There's no magic involved. All the lenses you mention are f/4 or so on the wide end, and f/5.6 on the long end. Most are closer to f/5.6 throughout the range. If there's not enough light wide open, you'll have to raise the ISO or lower the shutter speed. In full sun, you can probably get 1/1000s at f/5.6 with ISO 400. If there's less light, ISO will need to go up.

    Of the 4 lenses you mention, I'd say the Panasonic 45-150 is the best all around - it has the best optics, a fairly reasonable price, and is among the less expensive.

    As to the GTC1, I don't think you'll find it does what you're looking for. You lose quality, and the reach you get isn't going to be nearly what you get with one of those 4 lenses. If you can afford a regular lens, that's a better way to go.
  8. madogvelkor

    madogvelkor Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 22, 2013
    True -- the 45-175 does pair well with the G5 since you can control the zoom on the camera body with a lever. But whether that plus an extra 25mm of reach is worth the extra $150, I don't think so if you aren't going to be shooting a lot of video with it.
    • Like Like x 1
  9. lightning

    lightning Mu-43 Veteran

    Jun 29, 2012
    Kerava, Finland
    Im using my old 45-200 in summer time when its good light, but when its getting darker, i have to change lens to lovely Oly 45mm 1.8.

    But in good light 45-200 is very good catching dog action etc:


    If i were you, id go with Pana 45-150. Its newer, smaller, lighter and perhaps a bit shaper =)
    • Like Like x 1
  10. davidedric

    davidedric Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 24, 2013
    Cheshire, UK
    Another option could be the Pany 14-140mm, though it is quite pricey. I have one on a G5 and am very happy with it.

  11. Vicky

    Vicky Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 6, 2013
    Thanks everyone!

    Do you think it's safe to say that the 45-150 is slightly faster than the 200? (In terms of AF)

    Lighning: that is indeed the kind of shot I'm looking for!
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Jacquesass

    Jacquesass Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 17, 2014
    Current Adorama prices for new:
    P45-150 ($236): well-reviewed, inexpensive, MegaOIS

    Compared to the P45-150:
    P45-175 ($360): longer tele, slightly longer and slightly heavier body, internal zoom, power zoom, PowerOIS
    P14-140 ($630): slightly shorter at the tele end - but the 10x covers down to 14mm, will be slower around 45mm, slightly bigger and 2oz heavier, PowerOIS
    P35-100 ($1275): much faster especially at the tele end, shorter focal lengths, slightly longer and almost twice as heavy, internal zoom, PowerOIS

    It's sort of an embarrassment of riches if you're looking for a zoom - and this doesn't include the older, larger P45-200 or any of the very good Olympus zooms. I have the P45-175 and like its performance very much - if you're outside during the day. It's too slow for most "available light" indoor situations.

    Depending on the reach you need and how much available light you expect, the P35-100 will give you up to 4x the light wide open vs. the P45-150 - letting you quarter your shutter speed for action shots. That said, the $1000 penalty is enough to buy a P45-150 AND the Olympus 75/1.8 ($899) with more than $100 left over...
  13. RDM

    RDM Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nice comparison Jacques, but where does the 100-300mm lens fall?.
  14. RamblinR

    RamblinR Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    Aug 16, 2012
    Qld Australia
    If you want a fast lens and 100mm will get you enough length then save the pennies and get the 35-100mm f2.8 you won't regret it as it is an amazingly lens. Has internal focus and is very sharp. Check my flickr site for some action shots with it (skate park and wake park shots)
  15. bikerhiker

    bikerhiker Mu-43 All-Pro

    Dec 24, 2013
    I personally own both the Olympus 40-150 f/4-5.6 and the Panasonic Lumix G-X 35-100 f/2.8 Mega OIS and I can say for certain that in overcast, not so bright and cloudy days, you'll be thanking that f/2.8 constant aperture. Otherwise @ f/5 or f/4.8, you'll be shooting @3200 ISO all the time while starving for the extra stop of shutter speed. I rather shoot @ ISO 800 or 1600. In bright sunny days, ISO 200 is no problem getting fast shutter speeds! Since I have one of the older Olympus bodies, the E-PL1, I make extra sure I always shoot under ISO 1600 or 800. Newer E-M5 and E-M1 is more forgiving, but that also allows you 2 more stops faster when shooting @ f/2.8.

    When you are shooting action, you may not really need image stablization at all. In fact, at higher shutter speeds like 1/500 or 1/1000s, I found that image stablization can occassionally cause slight blur of the photos because it's recording the lens movement too especially the shutter period is very high! I found that it also causes very slight blur even @ 1/250s, so I usually have the OIS off on my 35-100, unless I shoot anything under 1/200sec. In bright daylight, I get sharp images using the 40-150, as long as your shutter speed is 1/2xFL. Which means that if you are at 100mm, your minimum shutter speed should be @ 1/250sec.
  16. demiro

    demiro Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Nov 7, 2010
    Given that you really don't need IS for shooting fast action (OP was talking shutter speed of 1000) does the Olympus 40-150 make sense (even cheaper than the 45-150)? None of those lenses are going to matter much if you are shooting in less than daylight (except the 35-100), so why not go with the least expensive?
  17. Jacquesass

    Jacquesass Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 17, 2014
    Bikerhiker said it better than I would have - and has experience with those exact two lenses.

    O40-150 ($150): similar image quality, slightly longer and slightly lighter, no OIS

    For $150, the O40-150 is a no-brainer for an Olympus body. If the OP is going to shoot from a tripod in full sunlight, it will probably do great on a Panasonic body ... but trying to handhold and follow a FAST moving dog with no image stabilization on a slow tele lens (especially on a less than perfectly lit day) is not a recipe for sharp photos for most of us. Some of you have perfect camera-holding technique, so that statement doesn't apply to you.
  18. Jacquesass

    Jacquesass Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 17, 2014
    P100-300 ($494): obviously longer focal lengths, almost 2x as wide, almost 3x as long, almost 2.5x as heavy, MegaOIS

    The P100-300 is the best native "super-tele" and is a) relatively small/light/inexpensive compared to comparable DSLR lenses and b) still not enough reach for some photographers (e.g., birders). That said, it's big and heavy compared to everything else we've been talking about - but if you need that reach, it's not a bad choice. Personally, I hope Panasonic updates the 100-300 like they updated the 14-140; I would pay extra for a lens with that focal range if it was a little bit sharper/smaller/lighter/faster, especially if they added the newer PowerOIS.
  19. demiro

    demiro Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Nov 7, 2010
    The point is you don't generally use IS for fast action shooting. Or at least I don't. Nor does bikerhiker, I think.
  20. Jacquesass

    Jacquesass Mu-43 Regular

    Feb 17, 2014
    I'm with you. Any of the lenses would work for the OP on a bright day with a fast shutter speed; any drop in light = higher ISO (except for the f/2.8). Unfortunately, if they get the O40-150 and a Panasonic body, they might end up wishing that they had IS (of some sort) in darker situations (other than agility performances).

    That said, it's $150 - so it might be worth the OP buying and trying (and selling if it doesn't work). It's hard to lose a bunch of money on a $150 lens.
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