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long exposure, lights lights lights

Discussion in 'Open Discussion' started by newfie, Mar 3, 2015.

  1. newfie

    newfie Mu-43 Veteran

    211
    Jan 15, 2015
    Canada
    Ian
    Hey Everyone,

    I just picked up a epm1/14-42 rII couple of weeks back and have been having a real blast!

    I really pushed the camera a few nights ago with city scape exposures around 20 seconds at f22 with stabilization on:( The results were good but i noticed some overexposing/blooming happening around the far off lights. Things looked a little soft as well. After some advise from other m43 shooters I went out again and "had at er"!
    This time, f6.3, 8-15 seconds, stabilization off. I also hung a pipe wrench from the center of my tripod to stabilize things (that got some looks) and I saw some real improvement.
    I'm still not getting the kind of dynamic range i'd get with my apsc gear and the lights aren't looking much better. Still overexposed in a way I'm not used to.

    I've heard the new 16mp sensors are way better for this sort of thing yet I know an old 6mp apsc wouldn't behave in this manor.

    Anyone else had this sort of thing and what may I be overlooking in the settings?
     
  2. sprocket87

    sprocket87 Mu-43 Veteran

    306
    Jun 29, 2011
    Would you mind posting an example photo?
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  3. MadMarco

    MadMarco Mu-43 Veteran

    298
    Oct 30, 2014
    Guildford, England
    What ISO are you shooting (high ISO will compromise DR)
     
  4. newfie

    newfie Mu-43 Veteran

    211
    Jan 15, 2015
    Canada
    Ian
    for got to mention that. 200iso
     
  5. newfie

    newfie Mu-43 Veteran

    211
    Jan 15, 2015
    Canada
    Ian
    • Like Like x 1
  6. MadMarco

    MadMarco Mu-43 Veteran

    298
    Oct 30, 2014
    Guildford, England
    I prefer the second one :) just seems to have more "atmosphere"

    Have you tried to play around with Live Time function on the camera? I've only really played around with it myself, but it might help in this situation to avoid overexposing some areas.
     
  7. newfie

    newfie Mu-43 Veteran

    211
    Jan 15, 2015
    Canada
    Ian
    by, "better of the two, " i meant detail:)
     
  8. oldracer

    oldracer Mu-43 All-Pro

    Oct 1, 2010
    USA
    My guess would be that you are getting diffraction effects at f22 that causes resolution to deteriorate. Our short focal length lenses end up with pretty tiny physical apertures at f22. I suggest that you search out some lens tests and figure out what the "sweet spot" aperture is. Or just test F6.3, f8, f11, f16 and see which gives your point light sources the best sharpness. IIRC from reading tests, the sweet spot is rarely at a smaller opening than f8. If you need a longer exposure than ISO 200 gives you at the sweet spot aperture, neutral density filters are your friend.

    Edit: IMHO you also have some up/down camera motion on that 1010727 shot. In addition to being a little fuzzier than those in the second shot, the point light sources also look asymmetrical -- smeared up/down.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2015
    • Agree Agree x 1
  9. newfie

    newfie Mu-43 Veteran

    211
    Jan 15, 2015
    Canada
    Ian
    the first was shot at f6.3. i shot many of that scene at different apertures with not too much improvement on light detail. Anyway, I'll keep at it. It's a new system to me and I'm sure the techniques will come.
     
  10. NoSeconds

    NoSeconds Mu-43 All-Pro


    In the Flickr page of your image, bottom RHS there is a little trio of icons (Star, Right Arrow and Down Arrow), click on the right arrow and select BBCode from the choices, select the size you want the image to display on screen (I selected 1024x768 for this post) then Right-click and copy the code displayed in the bottom box and then paste it into your post on Mu43...

    Like so...

    16663690646_ae6f2f214e_b. Drive by naibian, on Flickr


    16676054782_3beb7c7e50_b. snowy-1010727 by naibian, on Flickr


    Nice pics, especially with an older sensor at night, my GF1 has serious noise issues with long exposure at night... Not to mention dramas with focusing...

    Cheers
    Troy
     
  11. oldracer

    oldracer Mu-43 All-Pro

    Oct 1, 2010
    USA
    Sorry. The tabs in my browser end up in reversed order as I open the pictures so I said it wrong. The one I was looking at was the one with the much longer tail-light smear, which I believe was the f22 shot, right? The point sources of light look a little fuzzier to me and they are smeared vertically. Until your tripod is rock solid, though, it's hard to see small differences in sharpness. I'd definitely hang onto that pipe wrench and run your aperture experiments with the weight, release the shutter with the time delay or a remote release, plus make two or three exposures if there's more than the hint of a breeze.
     
  12. newfie

    newfie Mu-43 Veteran

    211
    Jan 15, 2015
    Canada
    Ian
    great...thought i'd have a small, lightweight system but now I'm carrying around an 8lb pipe wrench!

    something kinda funny about that.
     
  13. NoSeconds

    NoSeconds Mu-43 All-Pro

    Just take a plastic/nylon shopping bag and fill it with rocks etc until it's heavy enough...
     
  14. MadMarco

    MadMarco Mu-43 Veteran

    298
    Oct 30, 2014
    Guildford, England
    Great point from oldracer about shooting at f/22, the sweet-spot is probably around f/5.6 - f/8 for that lens. I'd be looking at getting a ND filter, I've got a Hoya ND64 which is 6 stops. Get the biggest one that will fit the lenses that you are likely to own and then buy reducers from eBay or other cheap source.

    My filters are all 62mm which fits the 12-40 and then I have a bunch of step down rings to fit the other lenses that I have.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. oldracer

    oldracer Mu-43 All-Pro

    Oct 1, 2010
    USA
    Yup. There are alternatives. For example: http://bythom.com/support.htm

    If you want an inexpensive but excellent tripod that will weight a bit less than your wrench, take a look at one of the original (Marchioni, Leitz) TiltAll tripods. They go for an amazingly cheap $65-100 on eBay. My TiltAll's leg diameter (= stiffness) is the same as my Gitzo G320 Studex tripod, recommended by Gitzo for cameras up to 4x5. More info: http://tiltallsupport.blogspot.com/p/tiltall-support.html That guy also sells a replacement column that will take a ball head if you don't like the pan/tilt. (Plus you will look more professional hauling the TiltAll vs. the wrench!)