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Linking AE-L/AF-L to shutter release on E-M1, is it possible?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by mxlin, Mar 2, 2015.

  1. mxlin

    mxlin Mu-43 Regular

    46
    Oct 6, 2010
    Pennsylvania, USA
    I hope defined my question correctly. I'd like to know if possible, with one single press of the shutter release button, it locks the exposure and focus instead of doing one extra step of pressing the AEL/AFL button. If so, how is it done in the menu system? Thank you in advance.
     
  2. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi,

    By default, you never need to use the AEL/AFL button; a half (or full) press of the shutter will set the exposure and focus.

    If that's not what you're asking, can you rephrase the question?

    Barry
     
  3. mxlin

    mxlin Mu-43 Regular

    46
    Oct 6, 2010
    Pennsylvania, USA
    ...really? That's what I was asking. Thanks!
    But can you explain under what sort of circumstances one would want reach for the AEL/AFL button, when if you set shutter for AFL only?
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2015
  4. Fri13

    Fri13 Mu-43 Veteran

    353
    Jan 30, 2014
    When you use A/S/P modes (or other auto-exposure).

    I don't understand those who use backfocusing anymore on MILC cameras like E-M1. Have not really got it ever.
     
  5. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    I use it all the time. It means I can recompose without losing the focus point I want. For me, the actions of focus, exposure control and taking the shot are three separate actions.
     
  6. Fri13

    Fri13 Mu-43 Veteran

    353
    Jan 30, 2014
    To me those are one, M mode all the time, focus point movement without worrying subject gets out of focus and then composition+timing is only thing waiting.
    when I know the depth of field will be deeper, I used only center point.

    Half pressing shutter isn't a problem and if doing longer waiting then I use M/AF switch as it doesn't loosen my grip at all like AEL/AFL does.
     
  7. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    When properly set up back button focusing provides you with both C-AF and S-AF without having to switch between the two. Just press and hold the designated button for C-AF and continue to fire a way if you choose; or release the button when focus is locked, recompose if needed and shoot.
     
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  8. budeny

    budeny Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 4, 2014
    Boulder, CO
    The most common case to lock exposure is shooting panoramas.
    But many people, (me too) actually assign focusing to other button than shutter - mode 3 in Olympus menu.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Can C-AF on back-button focus work in mode3? How?

    Barry
     
  10. Fri13

    Fri13 Mu-43 Veteran

    353
    Jan 30, 2014
    Yes I know. But I shoot only in M. I adjust exposure as I see I need. For me it is single button and front wheel to move focus point horizontally so I don't misfocus because recomposition. And it is a single shutter press to get always subject in focus.

    DSLR and semi-auto modes requires backfocusing to be used, not the M mode with EVF because exposure doesn't change if I don't want it to change. I only command release and composition.

    M is the easiest way to handle camera in fast situations. Subject moving or not. No focus or exposure problems what backfocusing causes.
     
  11. Richella

    Richella The Wandering Scotsman

    267
    Aug 21, 2011
    Kuala Lumpur
    This link explains how to set up rear button AF on E-M1. I tried it but found that the AEL/AFL was not convenient as it is too close to the eye piece and I constantly felt like it was all too crammed.
     
  12. Fri13

    Fri13 Mu-43 Veteran

    353
    Jan 30, 2014
    What link?
     
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    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    I do not understand how manual exposure (setting f-stop and shutter speeds) is relevant to the focus mode chosen.

    For those that often change from C-AF (Continuums auto focus) to S-AF (Single auto focus) rear button focusing makes a lot of sense. If you shoot in manual focusing mode, then this conversation is mute as there is no bearing on manual focusing.
     
  14. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    Change the Fn1 button to AEL/AFL and I think you will find it much better.
     
  15. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    Barry, which Mode 3? I recall a mode 3 for the viewfinder and the lever but ...
     
  16. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi, I have the lever on mode 3, and the AFL button does SAF when the lever is down, but holding the button does nothing... How can I get it to do CAF?

    Thanks,
    Barry
     
  17. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    Lever Modes 1, 2, 3, and 4 should have no effect on focus modes selection. I just verified this on my E-M1, and in any of those 4 lever modes I can press the AF button and chose the focus mode I want. Lever mode 5 is a whole different story however.

    Try moving the lever to the up position and try selecting a different AF mode again. Also try going through the Super Control Panel to change the focus mode. Then try another Lever Mode. If you can’t change focus modes through any of those methods then maybe you have focus mode selection assigned to another function button? Just a guess.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Ok, it does work as described if I first set to CAF, thanks!
     
  19. Fri13

    Fri13 Mu-43 Veteran

    353
    Jan 30, 2014
    People use A, S and P modes a lot. And then they choose exposure by pointing metering point and locks it with shutter. They don't like that focus changes when they release half-press after recomposition, because half-pressing again causes focusing to foreground/background and not to subject.

    So they first focus, recompose and then adjust exposure. Or adjust exposure, focus and recompose. And then they don't want focus or exposure change automatically with any press of a shutter (half or full) or unless they change EV correction.

    In manual mode, exposure doesn't change unless you change it. There is no automation guessing exposure.
    This is possible with the EVF because you see what you get, no reading EV value, no checking histogram, you just see it. Not possible with OVF.
    No checking rear display did you get exposure correctly or letting camera do anything.

    Now, many DSLR shooter use PDAF (dah) and that has the back focus or rear focus problems, way too often when PDAF is as own unit instead on sensor. So once you get focus correctly, you don't want to risk it to fail.

    In possible moving subject you want to be able focus continually to subject. That is the thing here, right?

    With M + MF/C-AF you don't need to worry about exposure. With a press of a button camera stops focusing and stay there. No need to hold button when wanted to continue focusing.

    With a press of a button, you can move focus point around with two dials that are exactly below finger tips on E-M1 (and well in other OM-D) meaning you just move focus point horizontally by pressing a either front button with ring or middle finger. You still have great grip and capability adjust any setting or trigger shutter. Now using a rear or front dial you get focus point move as needed and no need to recompose. With a press of a another button, you can return focus point to center or any predefined position, in any size (small, normal, 9-point etc) if needed for sudden movements.

    That makes possible to
    - not change exposure
    - focus only when subject moves without holding a button back of the camera
    - no need to recompose while keeping always focus point on subject to keep it in focus (no misfocus because recomposition) for fast situations while keeping shutter half-pressed.

    The shutter button works different ways. It does allow C-AF by half pressing or only trigger a shutter release, it allows a S-AF too if wanted.

    The EVF and E-M1 layout with 2x2 leveler and Fn buttons makes very easy to keep full control all the time and never need to use any automatic exposure settings, loose grip because backfocusing, recompose and loose a focus because that.

    Sure we can move it to rear button, but holding a other button while tracking isn't as good as holding a shutter button half-way as it is anyways fully pressed at important moments.

    I used back focus way over decade ago (found it myself) as I was forced to do so with DSLR.

    E-M1 allowed me to revise the techniques to improve the speed, accuracy and overall success rate.
    Photographing fast moments has never been so fast with a back focusing. Like a fox suddenly jumping at front on track, a owl striking at pray etc. A stationary subject that suddenly starts running around behind obstacles etc.

    Everything in E-M1 makes it best wildlife camera by its focus speed, CDAF, PDAF, EVF and especially layout and MySets.
     
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  20. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    I agree that back button focus isn't ideal in all circumstances - I don't use it for action shots. However, for landscapes, still life etc, it's far better to have focus separated from exposure - IMHO.