Laowa 7.5mm f/2 MFT 'Compact Dreamer' Lens Review

Impulse

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Ah yeah this makes sense on both fronts.

RE: Vignetting, I just got one of these lenses from Adorama and they threw in a bunch of extra stuff at no additional cost. Included was a set of 46mm filters, all of which cause some vignetting, the CPL being the worst offender.

Does anyone have a particular brand or model of slim filters they can recommend for use with the 7.5mm?

Try using a step up ring and larger filters instead? I actually bought a 46-49mm step up for it but I haven't tested it yet. Didn't do so totally on purpose but I figured it couldn't hurt, I was getting a red intensifying filter for astro purposes and the smallest size it came in is 49mm... I can check out whether the combo vignettes in a couple days, I'm traveling right now and didn't bring that filter/ring along.
 

EarthQuake

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Try using a step up ring and larger filters instead? I actually bought a 46-49mm step up for it but I haven't tested it yet. Didn't do so totally on purpose but I figured it couldn't hurt, I was getting a red intensifying filter for astro purposes and the smallest size it came in is 49mm... I can check out whether the combo vignettes in a couple days, I'm traveling right now and didn't bring that filter/ring along.

Yeah I've seen some people using step up rings with 58mm and even 67mm. I expect 49mm might not be enough but am curious to hear your experience.

For me, the point of getting the 7.5mm was to be as small/light as possible, so carrying step up rings and larger filters isn't desirable. Plus I have other 46mm lenses (15/1.7 and 25/1.4) so a decent set of 46mm slim filters would be great to have. Worst case I can crop the corners in a bit when using filters, which really isn't that often (mostly just for NDs/long exposures).
 

archaeopteryx

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I expect 49mm might not be enough but am curious to hear your experience.
Based on experience with other ultrawides I'd guess not as well; a step up is comparable to a filter in stack height, so if there's significant vignetting with a 46mm polarizer or two regular 46mm filters it's likely a 49mm on a step up will show in the corners as well.

For slim NDs Haida's probably among the better choices.
 

Mack

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The Laowa 7.5mm vignettes enough at f/2 as it is. Any filter screwing into it, and making it a smaller ID, will make it worse.

An option may be to find a step-up ring that can be slipped over the outside diameter ( ~51mm) and held somehow for a larger filter to be held right against the front edge. Still, a vignette at f/2 will still be there in its native form.
 

tkbslc

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The diminutive size and negligible weight are compelling. Am I crazy?

Yes, crazy. Manual focus is extra work (Especially if infinity is not perfectly calibrated) and you'll be giving up the 18mm end, which means more lens swaps for switching back to regular photography.
 
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ijm5012

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Yes, crazy. Manual focus is extra work (Especially if infinity is not perfectly calibrated) and you'll be giving up the 18mm end, which means more lens swaps for switching back to regular photography.
Having owned the Voigtlander Nokton trio previously, MF isn’t a huge deal (especially for landscape work). And lens swapping isn’t an issue either, as my second E-M1 II would have the 12-100 mounted on it.

My question was more focusing on sharpness, corner distortion, coma, etc.
 

pake

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Reviews of this lens seem extremely positive.

In a brief moment of insanity, I’m considering selling my beloved PL 8-18 for a copy of this lens.

The diminutive size and negligible weight are compelling. Am I crazy?
I can't compare it to PL 8-18 but I can tell you that my Laowa is always in my camera back since it's so damn small. I've been happy with the IQ but then again I don't have the Oly or PL UW to compare it against.
 

mike3996

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Especially if infinity is not perfectly calibrated
Do you think it wanders? I "calibrated" it once by focusing to far distance using magnifier and then checking how it falls on the distance scale. In my copy, infinity falls exactly in between the leftmost "2.8" and the focus tic. That's why I got many soft images early on because I absend-mindedly focused to "infinity" which was actually way past it.
 

davidzvi

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Reviews of this lens seem extremely positive.

In a brief moment of insanity, I’m considering selling my beloved PL 8-18 for a copy of this lens.

The diminutive size and negligible weight are compelling. Am I crazy?
I considered adding it. But in the end I decided if I just want small, light, and fun I already have the 9mm BCL. My PL8-18 isn't going anywhere.
 

Impulse

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My question was more focusing on sharpness, corner distortion, coma, etc.

Some reviews have them really really close sharpness-wise (specially stopped down a bit), such as Mirrorless Comparison's, Photozone's, etc. Even Lenstip's reviews seems to suggest as much and they're some of the most trustworthy IMO. I didn't finish testing them definitely but my own particular copy of the Laowa always seemed a bit behind the PL8-18 in the corners. YMMV I guess, some people had odd sample issues with the PL too.

The Laowa will obviously vignette more, and coma is a little worse as well IIRC, it's also got more distortion by default but the PL8-18 benefits from built in corrections... Without those it (and every other native UWA) would feature more distortion than the uncorrected Laowa, it shouldn't be hard to make a preset profile to fix it in post. I've been curious to compare them flaring-wise but haven't done something head to head...

That's something some knocked the Laowa for, while Robin Wong dinged the PL8-18 for the same thing but the latter fared better than the 7-14s in some direct comparisons I saw on the DPR boards... It seems like something that's hard to judge in a vacuum yet many still do so. /shrug
 

The Kathmandu Cat

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Pen-F; Focused on infinity at f5.6

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Mike Peters

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From a recent commercial assignment, @f2 iso 3200 1/160. Having a max aperture of f2 is a godsend in these situations. Being tiny makes it easy to have with me all the time!

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martink111

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Hi, lenses don't compress dynamic range.
I was kind of wondering about that myself. I just picked one up about a month ago and while it is incredibly sharp and contrasty, it seems at times to be too contrasty. Especially wide open, it’s pretty easy to end up with a shot that is dark at the edges and blown out in the center, but even stop down and with good exposures I have to set my tone curves to a flatter setpoint than I do for my other Olympus lenses because otherwise the shots will come out way too contrasty. Wide open, it’s pretty easy to end up with a shot that is dark at the edges and blown out in the center, but even stop down and with good exposures I have to set my tone curves to a flatter setpoint than I do for my other Olympus lenses because otherwise the shots will come out too contrasty. Also, for some odd reason I have a very hard time getting correct white balance with this lens. Even with a white card at best I end up too warm. A very finicky but rewarding lens. Some samples from Spain
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(sorry I had to edit and change out one of the pictures… The previous city soon in the canyon was with my 12 to 40, not the Laowa)
 

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martink111

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Hi, that could be vignetting, but I don't notice it in the pics you just posted.
Yeah unfortunately I didn’t have any good examples at the moment.

The shot below is kind of typical though: very bright centers with overly dark edges. I’m guessing this is very likely phenomenon common with ultra-wide angles but I never noticed it on my 12 mm lengths
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barry

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Yeah unfortunately I didn’t have any good examples at the moment.

The shot below is kind of typical though: very bright centers with overly dark edges. I’m guessing this is very likely phenomenon common with ultra-wide angles but I never noticed it on my 12 mm lengths
Hi, the sharp black corners in the first image are probably caused by sensor movement from the IBIS, notice they're only obvious on the top corners.
If it's showing on all 4 corners in one image, then it's vignetting.
 

martink111

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Hi, the sharp black corners in the first image are probably caused by sensor movement from the IBIS, notice they're only obvious on the top corners.
If it's showing on all 4 corners in one image, then it's vignetting.
The very far corners are vignetting; on that shot I had a neutral density on and it was clipping the corners. I was more concerned about the more subtle darkening that radiated outward. That issue in itself is not such a big deal. My bigger problem is with white balance. I have a feeling that the wide-angle makes it difficult for the camera to determine where to be picking a white point from, even with a white card. At least with my copy of the lens, it will be significantly warmer than my other lenses (comparable if not a little worse than my Supertak 50 F1.4).
 

Growltiger

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Lenses that fully meet the M43 standard also have vignetting, but it is automatically corrected both in the camera when making a JPG, or in the post processing program if taking raw. For example Photoshop, Lightroom, Olympus Workspace and many others do it automatically, and this is mandated by the M43 standard.

But lenses without the electronic connection and the chip in the lens that contains the data which specifies the vignetting correction required (and other things), are not corrected automatically.

So with this lens, which like most very wide angle lenses does have significant vignetting, you should be manually correcting the vignetting in your post processing program, both for JPGs and raw, if you seek perfection.

Regarding the shot with the ND filter, I suggest you get a filter size converter and fit that with a larger ND filter attached. That will help avoid the severe vignetting it has caused.
 

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